Front driveshaft / CV R&R - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
nx13688
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Front driveshaft / CV R&R

I have a 2002 Liberty with a front driveshaft CV joint that is going to heck (it makes a lot of noise, and the shaft moves around in it). It is the CV at the transfer case, if that makes a difference. Two questions:
1. How big of a job is it going to be to remove the front driveshaft and replace the CV joint? I have a good set of hand tools, and access to a lift and/or hydraulic press if necessary.
2. If it's not a big deal to remove the shaft, is it OK to run the Lib without it temporarily?
TIA,
Ryan

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post #2 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 06:01 AM
Sartori
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Hello

Well if its like the front driveshaft on my 02 Dakota you can't replace the cv joint. You have to buy the whole driveshaft.
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post #3 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
nx13688
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That really wouldn't surprise me. Any thoughts on running without the driveshaft temporarily? It's my wife's daily driver, so the less downtime, the better.
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post #4 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 08:10 AM
phxtoad
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You can take the shafts out fairly simply. There are no retaining clips in the front diff. to deal with - they should slide right out. However, each side is a 'unit' so you can either replace them, or send them to JE Reel for a rebuild. You can definitely run without them, but the front diff will leak. You'll need to duct tape the openings as best you can.

TL

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'95 YJ, 2.5" RE, 32's, open
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post #5 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 08:14 AM
festerw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sartori
Hello

Well if its like the front driveshaft on my 02 Dakota you can't replace the cv joint. You have to buy the whole driveshaft.
You're talking different parts, the joint on the driveshaft (between the t-case and the front axle) should be replaceable. I'm thinking it should run around $150 to have it done at a shop.

Hers - 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7 4x4
Mine - 2003 Jeep Wrangler X
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post #6 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 11:11 AM
merlinTec
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Hi
No can’t be repaired it comes as a new shaft.
Regards,
Merlin

UK Chrysler Jeep Master Tec.
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post #7 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 02:20 PM
jeepjeepster
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You can run without the front shaft without loosing fluid. Few bolts and it comes out.

Best to get a JE reel driveshaft that uses Ujoints. Check out Lostkjs for more on that..
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post #8 of 36 Old 11-06-2007, 04:32 PM
Sartori
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjeepster
You can run without the front shaft without loosing fluid. Few bolts and it comes out.

Best to get a JE reel driveshaft that uses Ujoints. Check out Lostkjs for more on that..
Thats what I wound up doing on my Dakota, I got a custom shaft made with the double cardon joint back at the transfer case. I got tired of buying shafts....
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post #9 of 36 Old 11-07-2007, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
nx13688
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Thanks for all the input. I let the dealership look at it and they quoted me almost $700 to replace it. I said no thanks, and had them just remove it for the time being. I can find a replacement and torque down 12 little bolts for a whole lot less than that! They were also going to "save" me $40 if I let them replace my air filter and license plate light at the same time. How generous!
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post #10 of 36 Old 10-30-2008, 06:49 PM
GSXRGUY
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www.cvrestoration.com

I just found these, So you can now replace the front and rear CV joints on the front prop shaft
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post #11 of 36 Old 12-27-2008, 09:47 PM
dlundgren
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Jeep Liberty KJ Front Drive Shaft Removal

Hi all! Aftr plenty of searches for over an hour, I cannot believe no else had this posted. I am an old school CJ/YJ trail fix guy but my family carry all is an 03 Liberty.

Noticed all the common sounds of the front drive shaft going out half way home from Christmas leave..900+ miles total right at 0'dark 30.

Now I have removed the (6) 8mm bolts at the tcase end of the drive shaft and also the (6) 8mm bolts at the axle end.

The axl end I have broke loose the rust/seized connection between the drive shaft and the yoke but I am not having the same luck at the tcase end.

I need to know if anyone else who has done this required any special tool for the tcase end to pry apart or do I just do the good old fashioned heave ho until she gives with a hammer.

I am on the road with the wife and kids, with very limited tool access.

I also thought about the use force against force by tightening a couple of bolts of front again since it is free and engage 4LO to crack it loose at the tcase. Just started getting cold and I am not as young and daring as the old days while on holiday.

Any help would be very grateful.

Happy Holidays!
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-07-2010, 07:20 PM
Damon1122
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Here's a website that does a spicer conversion on the front drive shafts - pretty reasonable

All Drive Lines
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post #13 of 36 Old 06-12-2010, 07:30 AM
jamesdart
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i called a local reputable driveshaft shop. he told me he can do whatever i would like, but he recomended against converting to u joints and told me the cv parts he can get for it were only lasting a year and he would rather not do it. he strongly recomended buying brand new O.E. shaft.
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post #14 of 36 Old 06-13-2010, 10:54 AM
Budke
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Holy thread resurrection batman!!!

04 TJ- Short Bus. It's got some stuff.


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post #15 of 36 Old 06-13-2010, 01:13 PM
Damon1122
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The reason there shafts dont last is because they use CHEAP parts, these shafts are build with spicer solid cross u-joints (these are maintence free you never have to grease them and the grease never leaks out) other shops use greaseable joints and people dont grease them.
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