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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:49 PM   #1
jbarthol
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Bearing Issues

So I was driving along this weekend and realized my Jeep was "singing" when bearing to the left, not loud yet but I want to start prepping for it. Still have to lift it up to figure out which wheel bearing/hub it is. But I'm wondering which brands are good so I can start saving up for the parts. Picking up that Moog is a good brand. SKF appears to be good as well. I've shipped a lot of Timken bearings out for John Deere Tractors but have not really used them myself. Also, trying to figure out what size fasteners hold everything on, nuts, bolts etc. Probably get a 1/2in or 3/4in Ratchet, just need to figure out what size wheel adaptor I need. So far am noticing everything is in metric on it so I am figuring something in that size. Don't really want to get a wheel set if I can avoid it. Need to get a bearing press/remover as well, but one thing at a time.

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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:55 PM   #2
grenade187
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As a machinist, I can tell you that Timken is widely regarded as one of the best bearing brands in the world. As far as wheel bearings go, there isn't much to them, especially if you don't need the ABS sensor. I ran the cheapest ones I could get ($35 a side for the whole hub assembly) on a different truck ('88 Blazer) for over 100,000km with no problems. MOOG and Timken are probably the best brands out there as far as I know.

The front bearings come as an assembly, the ones I pulled out of my truck were not made to be pressed apart, had to replace the hub assembly as a whole. Prices can range from $40 a side to well over $100 a side. The rear wheel bearings are a cup-and-cone type tapered roller bearing. The cup is pressed into the ends of the diff housing and the cones are pressed onto the axles themselves.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 03:46 PM   #3
TwoBobsKJ
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Absolutely go with Timken - don't mess around with other brands. RockAuto.com carries them for around $130 each. Search for Jeep/Year/Liberty, then "Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly."

You'll need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut, a 21mm socket to remove the brake caliper, and an E14 external Torx socket to remove the three bolts that hold the hub to the spindle. Probably a couple of others that I'm not remembering right now.

Here's a great How-To giving you the step-by-step. Good luck!

Bob
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Unread 04-17-2013, 07:43 PM   #4
jbarthol
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That was the other question I needed to ask, was/is there a how to guide. The rear seems straight froward, just a bit messy. But I need to change the differential fluid anyways. If it turns out to be the rear, I'll just do that at the same time. Does prompt the question though gasket (if there even is one), or RTV? And what brands are good.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 08:06 PM   #5
TwoBobsKJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarthol View Post
That was the other question I needed to ask, was/is there a how to guide. The rear seems straight froward, just a bit messy. But I need to change the differential fluid anyways. If it turns out to be the rear, I'll just do that at the same time. Does prompt the question though gasket (if there even is one), or RTV? And what brands are good.
For the rear diff just go with RTV. Some have luck with gaskets while others have leaks. The RTV gets the job done so why bother spending the $'s on a gasket that's hit or miss - just be sure to scrape off the old RTV so you have a good seal.

Bob
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Unread 04-17-2013, 08:13 PM   #6
grenade187
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No gasket, gotta use RTV sealant. Use 75W-90 oil, and the torque for the diff cover bolts is 30 ft-lbs.

EDIT: Bob was quicker.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 05:02 AM   #7
RockRollin
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If using RTV be sure to COMPLETELY clean and dry (brake cleaner) both surfaces and do not allow any drip from the case.
BTW I always use gaskets only with no problems. That is a personal choice, either work fine. Just that I used to get "the look" from my dad whenever I grabbed a tube
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Unread 06-28-2013, 04:51 PM   #8
jbarthol
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Put this off for too long, so I am doing the bearings this weekend. Do the bearing need to be packed before I put them in? Keep reading the service manual, and my haynes manual and neither mention anything about packing them. However, working around truckers all day, they have caused my OCD to flare up. Thinking at least I will put some 75w90 in em before install, so they are not started dry?
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Unread 06-30-2013, 12:59 PM   #9
Luke09
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Are you talking about the rear? The fronts are encased units.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 06:10 PM   #10
jbarthol
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Rears, already put them in. Just soaked them in 75w90, and put everything back together. Pumpkin looked good, considering the PO probably never changed it. The only problem is the singing is still there. My parts store said look at the u joint, and boot on the pilot shaft. They feel fine, no unusual movement or tears. Rear u joint did feel stiff though on one axis. Also found they had zerks on them so bought a grease gun, tried to pump grease into them. No change in the sound, sad to say. Will try rotating the wheels tomorrow to see if it's coming from them. Muscles a little sore after all this, but I did figure out how the mouse got in that screwed up my power windows, that I asked about in another thread. All I need now is that free hitch everyone is talking about, to cover it up.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 07:42 PM   #11
Luke09
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Did the old grease spew out of the Ujoints? Unfortunately they can feel/look fine but still be toast.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 12:42 AM   #12
jbarthol
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No on either end. But I really wasn't able to get a good seat with the gun either. Don't know if it was the zerk or the gun. Not really familiar with zerk stuff other than what I use at work. The stuff I use at work it does shove the old out. But I have watched videos that depict ones that have a rubber reservoir that bulges some to let you know it's full. Unsure of where this one falls.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 12:30 PM   #13
Luke09
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Unless the old grease comes out (ujoints) your not getting new grease in. It will spew out of all four joints and when it runs clear you have filled it (more or less) with new grease. Same with the front (aftermarket) ball joints.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 02:26 AM   #14
jbarthol
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Gonna try the gun again. Didn't realize the adapter was adjustable, guns at work were already set so never crossed my mind. Swapped the two tires around, no change in the sound. Just an odd humming around 65 mph when bearing left. Good news is I'm definitely getting familiar with the undercarriage, as well as a crash course on truck maintenance.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 09:46 AM   #15
Luke09
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Trial by fire ... lol That's the way I learned ... well that and a little genetics from my grandfather
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