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Unread 09-09-2013, 11:24 PM   #1
sonya818
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2003  
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Horn Lake, Mississippi
Posts: 2
2003 Liberty 3.7 overheating

My Liberty keeps overheating with temp gauge only at halfway mark. We have replaced radiator(twice), thermostat, radiator fan relay, water pump, connector to the radiator fan, replaced fuse(s). The radiator fan doesn't come on, although, it did run when hooked to the battery. We ordered a new fan and it would not work when we plugged it in but it worked fine when hooked straight to the battery. The ac needs a new condenser. I am on a tight budget so I have just been suffering this summer. I am beyond frustrated at trying to track the underlying cause of this problem. The manager at a local parts store talked to one of his mechanic friends who seemed to think the problem could be somewhere in the electrical system. Does anyone else have any experience with this type of problem?

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Unread 09-09-2013, 11:30 PM   #2
tjkj2002
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2002 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Colorado
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Put the t-stat in correctly? Checked the connector on the fan relay? Used the updated OEM fan relay(only one you should be using)?


Is it actually overheating? What is teh actual temp being seen via live data on a scanner? The electric fan does not even come on till 219 degrees(+/- 2-3 degrees).
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Unread 09-10-2013, 12:13 AM   #3
WheelinKJ
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2003 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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What do you mean exactly by overheating with the temp gauge at the halfway mark? If the temp gauge is in the right spot, what signs are you getting that it's overheating? Steam from the engine bay? Scanner data?

So whatever way it shows it overheating, you could try a few simple things.
- Is your coolant at the right mixture ratio? Often times people think of the coolant's importance in cold temps to avoid freezing, but it also has a higher boiling point than water alone. Having the correct mixture will properly lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point.
- If you're seeing steam coming from the engine bay, you may just have a cracked hose or a small drip in a coolant line hitting the exhaust manifold. The passenger side of the engine bay is the first place I'd look for any drips since the majority of the coolant lines are situated on that side.
- Do you have air in your system? The Liberties do a decent job of self bleeding, but there is a bleed screw located on the top front of the engine where the big hose attaches to the water pump housing. Crack that loose and see if you get bubbles. You can massage the coolant lines a little to shove any air out. Also make sure your heater control is set to HOT while filling and bleeding or you'll introduce a significant air pocket when you open the heat valve afterwards. If there is air in the system, the temp gauge can give a false reading if it's not submerged or is just partially submerged.
- Is the cap on your coolant reservoir allowing the system to pressurize? Worn out?

Not sure if you've been through these test or not but hopefully your problem is just something simple that may have been overlooked.
good luck!
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Unread 09-10-2013, 03:05 PM   #4
sonya818
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Horn Lake, Mississippi
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By overheating, I mean boiling and blowing out(cracking the whole side) the radiator. As far as I know, the t-stat is in correctly and we have checked the connector on the relay. I will have my husband check to see if there is air in the system and will also check the reservoir cap but it seems to me that if it built up enough pressure to blow out the radiator twice, then it is allowing the system to be pressurized. Of course that is just conjecture on my part as I am not very knowledgeable on this subject. Oh and the coolant was the correct mixture.
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Unread 09-10-2013, 03:10 PM   #5
streetglideok
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2005 KJ Liberty 
 
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Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Time to do a block test. Go to the parts store and ask for a combustion leak tester. Napa and a few others sell them. Follow the instructions in the box. Ask on here if you have questions. I predict you will find your problem with that. IMO don't spend any more time chasing the issue until that test is done.
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Unread 09-10-2013, 04:08 PM   #6
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglideok View Post
Time to do a block test. Go to the parts store and ask for a combustion leak tester. Napa and a few others sell them. Follow the instructions in the box. Ask on here if you have questions. I predict you will find your problem with that. IMO don't spend any more time chasing the issue until that test is done.
X2...............

was going to recommend just that with "blowing out 2 radiators" statement.
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Unread 09-10-2013, 06:24 PM   #7
streetglideok
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Condemned a Dodge 4.7L just yesterday am. Pulling a trailer, can tell the radiator had been replaced recently, fan clutch didn't lock in, and signs of boiling over. Used the tester and condemned engine. Would need to pull heads and find the problem, which is most likely headgasket or head issue. Overheating kills these engines. First sign of a cooling system problem get it fixed then.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 10:36 AM   #8
packdog
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2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Radiator cap?

I agree with tjkj and Streetglide and think the test is the next step. But I would also like to ask if you replaced the radiator cap? I've seen faulty ones cause problems. Never seen them blow out radiators, but they can let pressure build up.

While the problem does sound more like pressure buildup than actual overheating, if it really is the fan not coming on then it could be the temperature sensor that tells the fan when to come on.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 12:03 PM   #9
streetglideok
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With the Libertys, if you have a a cooling fan malfunction, you need to verify power to the fan, verify the fuses are good, and check the resistance of the fan motor(both circuits if dual speed). They are known for fan motors wearing out and failing, fan motor relays failing, and cheap aftermarket fans with incorrect parts in the connectors causing overheating and melting of the connectors. If you have a fan issue, it is absolutely imperative the problem get corrected immediately. You will toast the engine, no questions asked. The vehicles with a mechanical fan too, that is a secondary fan. Your electric fan is the primary. If you need help in learning to test these parts, use the search, or ask away. Please own or buy a volt/ohm meter first, as this is an essential tool.
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