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Unread 05-26-2007, 05:23 AM   #1
Strorg
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 23
2002 Liberty A/C Compressor Clutch

Does anybody know of a parts source for clutch bearing or replacement clutch for Liberty A/C compressor? Any tips on pulling off the job?

Thanks...Strorg

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Unread 06-02-2007, 01:56 PM   #2
hermithound
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: new jersey
Posts: 2
2003 liberty

Just spent $200 getting mine recharged twice.They found the leak but then they said the compressor was bad ,and no parts available.The compressor list for $600.I checked Sanden web site and all the parts are listed.I haven't called yet to see if they will sell to me. Also http://www.rparts.com/index.asp list replacement part and advice to DIY hope this helps.I found that if I tap the clutch the while the air is on ,It will kick in and stay till I turn it off .Cheep fix that works.
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Unread 06-02-2007, 06:39 PM   #3
usswasp
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1994 XJ Cherokee 
 
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My 2002 went bad last summer. The private shop replaced it and got the new clutch from the dealer. I believe the total price was around $350 (parts and labor). About $200 for the clutch parts. I can't remember the exact numbers. Now I wish I had the change the compressor as well. Carquest and Advance Auto supplies remanufactured compressors with the clutch for around $350. Nothing wrong yet but it does fail badly (burn out) then it requires the replacement of the condensor as well (another $200 +).
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94 XJ Country, 4L HO, AW4, NP 242, 115k miles [URL=http://www.weatherlover1.com/jeep/94jeep.htm]My 94 Jeep Country[/URL]

08 Jeep Patriot, FD I CVT2 2.4L

02 KJ Sport traded ... I miss the ole' girl, except when I stop at the gas station
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Unread 06-04-2007, 05:02 AM   #4
rob92xj
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Clutch is about 200 plus labor. I change them all the time, on XJ's early ZJ's and KJ's great compressor but they do have weak clutches.
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Unread 06-04-2007, 05:17 AM   #5
usswasp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob92xj
Clutch is about 200 plus labor. I change them all the time, on XJ's early ZJ's and KJ's great compressor but they do have weak clutches.
A weak clutch, huh? Figures. It's not critical to the operation of the vehicle but annoying.

Let's say it all together.

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

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94 XJ Country, 4L HO, AW4, NP 242, 115k miles [URL=http://www.weatherlover1.com/jeep/94jeep.htm]My 94 Jeep Country[/URL]

08 Jeep Patriot, FD I CVT2 2.4L

02 KJ Sport traded ... I miss the ole' girl, except when I stop at the gas station
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Unread 05-07-2010, 05:29 PM   #6
MoparMadness08
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If your clutch isnt engaging that means it has to much of a gap in it. the magnet isnt able to make contact. just remove the clutch and remove one of the shims behind it. it will tighten up the tolerance and will work like new.
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Unread 09-11-2011, 02:33 PM   #7
gotglasses
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A/C clutch noise and slip

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparMadness08 View Post
If your clutch isnt engaging that means it has to much of a gap in it. the magnet isnt able to make contact. just remove the clutch and remove one of the shims behind it. it will tighten up the tolerance and will work like new.
The gap is only valid if the bearing in the pulley is good. A noisy clutch means a bad bearing. The bearing fails and the pulley wobbles a lot more than the recommended gap of a few thousandths. Check first by noting if any of the parts have turned white from heat. Loosen the serpentine belt and check the pulley for play. If it wobbles you need to replace the bearing or the whole compressor because the clutch pulley/assembly is no longer available ( if it ever was).

I was concerned when my underhood temperatures felt hot when I opened the hood. I checked my clutch by measuring the temperature with an infrared gauge and it was almost 500 degrees at the pulley, but the compressor was only 190. That heat fried the bearings and the wiring to the clutch. A good or new clutch assembly easily removes from the compressor, however the fried one may be seized on and require removal of the compressor. In that scenario you may be able to still do it in the car by bending the hoses - but it is not a pretty job. I damaged the old compressor shaft attempting this and replaced it with a good used unit which now works fine. A lot of hours were spent coming to that point since I was afraid of discharging the system. On my Cherokee the hose block at the compressor appears to have a check valve in the line. Refrigerant was not lost when it was loosened and it only needed a can of 134A to top off the system.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 10:53 PM   #8
gotglasses
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A/C Clutch removal Tools

I ordered a new clutch bearing from Autozone , they loaned me an OEM27001 puller set - which they sell for only $45. This is the most compact sturdy tool I have seen. It is only 5" deep on the car and allowed me to remove the frozen on pulley in ten minutes with no other disassembly required! In order to use my 3 jaw puller I would have had to pull the radiator or remove the compressor (as I did on my XJ.) Since I have good AC I wanted to preserve my charge. That puller made my day! The bearing is staked on the back. I ground away the stake points with a Dremel tool and was then able to tap out the bearing using two large 3/4 drive sockets and a bench vise. Save the old bearing races, you can use them later when you tap the Pulley back onto the compressor.

Now that my pulley has a nice new bearing it is quiet and runs much cooler.
I can also set the air gap without any scraping sounds !
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Unread 06-09-2013, 03:35 PM   #9
DJP92YJ
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Location: amarillo, tx
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Air Gap ont A/C

I have a 2003 Jeep liberty sport and the A/C stopped blowing cold air acouple of months ago. When I was looking for my problem I found that it was on the grill, HAHA! but Realy, I know that the A/C clutch was working (cycling on and off) while I had the A/C on Max cool. So I bought a r-134a rechage bottle that came with a psi gauge on it and charged the low side A/C line to just above 45psi it was 98 degree F outside that day.

Today (09June 2013) I popped the hood to see if the psi was lower on the system and it read 15psi on the low side, but the A/C Clutch would never engauge. I tapped it with the back of a screw driver and revved the engine. I really dont think reving the engine helps at all but I tryed that, sometimes weird things fix Jeeps?!? I messed with it for probably 20min and never got the clutch to enguage.

Question: What is the proper Air Gap for this clutch/compressor? What would be a normal psi reading on a fully charged unit when the compressor is not running, 90 degrees F today?
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Unread 06-09-2013, 06:10 PM   #10
streetglideok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJP92YJ View Post
I have a 2003 Jeep liberty sport and the A/C stopped blowing cold air acouple of months ago. When I was looking for my problem I found that it was on the grill, HAHA! but Realy, I know that the A/C clutch was working (cycling on and off) while I had the A/C on Max cool. So I bought a r-134a rechage bottle that came with a psi gauge on it and charged the low side A/C line to just above 45psi it was 98 degree F outside that day.

Today (09June 2013) I popped the hood to see if the psi was lower on the system and it read 15psi on the low side, but the A/C Clutch would never engauge. I tapped it with the back of a screw driver and revved the engine. I really dont think reving the engine helps at all but I tryed that, sometimes weird things fix Jeeps?!? I messed with it for probably 20min and never got the clutch to enguage.

Question: What is the proper Air Gap for this clutch/compressor? What would be a normal psi reading on a fully charged unit when the compressor is not running, 90 degrees F today?
You have a leak in the system. 15psi without the a/c running is very low. The low side cycling switch opens below 30-35psi typically. Once it opens, that cuts power to the compressor. Pumping R134A into a system without doing a proper evacuation and recharge is asking, no begging for trouble. As for typical pressure for a properly charged system, static pressure would likely be 100psi or over, depending if the engine has heatsoaked the system or not. System running, 40psi or there abouts on the low side, and over 200psi on the high side. There is no real guide on pressures, as different systems perform differently, and ambient air temp and relative humidity play significant factors. Basically, if you aren't sure what you are doing, 100%, and you want it cold and working properly, you need to take it to someone qualified. The newer systems are far too fickle, and intolerant of errors. Wrong kind of oil, overcharged of oil, undercharged of oil, over or under charged of R134A, and it will munch the compressor.
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Unread 06-10-2013, 03:25 PM   #11
moemoe88
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: green valley, az
Posts: 14
Smell

Last night I got a burned rubber/wiring smell through my vents. Stopped opened the hood and the belt looked good. Today I was able to get my nose to the compressor or clutch area and could smell the same smell. Drove it about 20 miles today with no smell. Clutch engages, ok. Is it just the clutch or bearing or whole compressor. It's a 2007 Liberty.
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Unread 06-10-2013, 07:23 PM   #12
streetglideok
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Could be the clutch getting hot from slippage due to a binding compressor. Seen that many times over. Would have to see how hot the clutch was getting, and how hard the compressor is to turn by hand. Also if you have an ohm meter, measure the resistance of the coil in the clutch magnet.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 03:59 PM   #13
moemoe88
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What should the resistance be? All seems to be working fine now. But if I get close to it I can still smell the "burning" a bit. Been looking for replacement clutches and they seem to be hard to find without the compressor
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