1st Post! Broken Timing Belt - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 26 Old 11-27-2012, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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1st Post! Broken Timing Belt

Hi there,

My first post as a Jeep owner. Be gentle. I know absolutely nothing about them!

I've just probably done a stupid thing and bought a broken one. In UK it's a Cherokee, but I gather it's a Liberty in US?

Getting a bit confused with models, though. It's a 51 plate (Sept 2001-March 2002) so I guess it's a KJ? Has a 2.5CRD engine in it.

I'll be honest. I've searched a few threads on here and I think I've probably made a mistake, but as I've already done it now on an impulse, I guess I'm on the rollercoaster anyway.

The vehicle has been bought with....drum roll....

a broken cambelt (timing belt).

I pretty much know my way around most domestic (UK) engines and figured it would be a similiar job, but as always happens, the more you dig, the more scary it gets. Figured a replacement head or even just a few valves, but over here these bits are really pricey.

I've not had chance to take anything to bits yet. In fact I just bought it this afternoon. It's due to be dleivered on Friday.

Thought I'd just get some feedback as to what things to look for and/or expect so I can prepare myself, both emotionally and financially

Any hints/tips/links would be much, much appreciated. Particularly and recommended UK parts suppliers.

I'd really appreciate some rays of hope too if there are any?!

Cheers for reading this far,

Regards,

Simon.

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post #2 of 26 Old 11-27-2012, 04:49 PM
95BadBoy
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You may very well be into some serious repair if things were colliding after the belt snapping.. This is a link recently posted on the belt replacement on a 2.8 CRD if it is of some help. The 2.8 VM's are an interference engine, do not have any first hand knowledge on the 2.5 myself.

LINKY

05 TJ RME 42RLE with some things
05 KJ CRD 545RFE, GDE Eco tune, Franky II, Al's 4.5 A-arms, JK Rubi Moabs, Silent Armors 245-70-17's, Spidertrax Adapters, Rola Basket, Fumoto Valve, Pinch welds pounded - Sold 2015
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post #3 of 26 Old 11-28-2012, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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Thanks Badboy. Some good stuff on there.

I suppose it's gonna be difficult to guess anything until I get the engine to bits.

I've been reading that the egine was designed to snap the followers instead of bending the valves (which sounds pretty sensible) and that there are therfore 16 followers which may need replacing. Is this sounding about right?

Another worrying point seems to be that the injectors can seize in the head (rendering it scrap)

Anyone had any experience of this? I've seen a removal tool available, but that's half what I paid for the car! lol

S
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post #4 of 26 Old 11-28-2012, 08:42 AM
mtnyeti97
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I own a diesel liberty that my wife drives. So I have some knowledge on them but there is a better forum to ask about the diesels. It is www.lostkj.com. They have a section of just diesel liberties and there is a lot of knowledge there even on your model that never came to the states.
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post #5 of 26 Old 11-28-2012, 08:44 AM
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post #6 of 26 Old 11-28-2012, 08:54 AM
Billwill
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I agree here that the only place to go is the CRD section at http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum.

Why on earth would you buy a CRD with a broken timing belt.....major problem.
The early Export CRDs were in manual form only and were the 2.5 L engine (which is what I have).....without self-breaking rockers which were only introduced, I think, in the Export 2.8 CRD (automatic) which came out about 2004 I believe....with the fixed-vane turbo still.

Either way you are looking at major damage...I hope you can find a local garage able to do repairs on the CRD.

2002 2.5 Export CRD Manual 5 speed.
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post #7 of 26 Old 11-29-2012, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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Cheers for the heads up. Lots of great info on the 'lost' site.

Why? Don't really know! I'm a Land Rover nut but couldn't find a decent Disco in my price range so started looking at other marques. The Jeep came up locally and very cheap so I figured 'what the hell'.

Seen a few heads going for around 200-250 and full engine for around 600 so I may have a fall back, but ideally, a set of rockers and lifters weighs in at 208 plus TB and WP.

We'll see what happens when it arrives tomorrow. GULP.

S
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post #8 of 26 Old 12-07-2012, 07:21 AM
Steve_S
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Hi,

Any news on this.

Bought very similar myself a few months ago. Would be interested to hear how you get on.

Steve
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post #9 of 26 Old 12-08-2012, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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News? Yeah. Nightmare.

Injectors proper stuck in. Got one loose, but the others are well dug in.

Tried replacing the belt and hoping for best, but its farting and popping back through the intake.

Made a puller but it just bent the metal. Quoted 130 to remove them. Thought 'champion!' Till he explained he needs to take the injectors apart. Quoted 120 each to put the injectors back together! Lol. New engine is minimum 1300. Can't just replace head (250) because of the injectors.

Quite frankly, if the belts knackered and the injectors are seized. Forget it unless you've got 2k to burn.

Looks like I'm breaking it unless I think of something quickly.

S.
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post #10 of 26 Old 12-08-2012, 12:24 PM
mtnyeti97
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You can try to find a small slide hammer with a two claw attachment and lightly tap upward until they break the carbon free. Most new direct injection engines have a special tool to remove the injectors and it is basically a slide hammer. Just a thought...
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post #11 of 26 Old 12-09-2012, 05:52 AM
Steve_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfatsi View Post
News? Yeah. Nightmare.

Injectors proper stuck in. Got one loose, but the others are well dug in.

Made a puller but it just bent the metal. Quoted 130 to remove them. Thought 'champion!' Till he explained he needs to take the injectors apart. Quoted 120 each to put the injectors back together! Lol. New engine is minimum 1300. Can't just replace head (250) because of the injectors.

Looks like I'm breaking it unless I think of something quickly.

S.
Yeah I had to deal with that. Two injectors came out in my hands two would not budge. I bit it and bought the tool. No offence to other post but a slide hammer would not touch these. The tool is thick solid metal and it was a real workout pulling them out! BTW you only have to dismantle number 4 injector due to lack of space the other are OK.
130 to remove injectors is reasonable but 120 to reassemble is robbery! Takes minutes and no real skill just a little fiddley.

To be honest I would have been better off breaking the one I bought but I don't like breaking things I like fixing things and have a soft spot for Jeeps so I kept at it. Bodywork and interior were mint so that helped my decision as well.

Oh yeah my belt wasn't broke but I bought it as running with no power and burning oil. Have replaced head due to damaged valve but could have just replaced valve as that appears to be only damage.

If purely financial then maybe break it? If you like a bit of a challange then stick with it! Oh and you can rent the injector puller for 100 or so off ebay and DIY.

Cheers,

Steve
Don't get a lot of time to work on it so it's still not finished but have
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post #12 of 26 Old 12-09-2012, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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Slide hammer not touching it. Broke the slide hammer!

Tool hire bloke says 70% of them come out without disassembly. Guess that's the next option.

Not gonna break it yet. Car is pretty much mint and hate being beat by mere metal!

S
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post #13 of 26 Old 12-10-2012, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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Latest position is that I'm getting the injectors pulled out (hopefully tomorrow) for 130 and a local firm will charge me 100 to rebuild and test the injectors ready for refitting.

Fingers crossed. Will update as I know more.

S
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post #14 of 26 Old 12-11-2012, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
bigfatsi
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They're out! Woo hoo!

Looks like a few broken rockers underneath. Boo

Will know more tomorrow as its 22:46 and -2.

S
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post #15 of 26 Old 12-11-2012, 04:51 PM
95BadBoy
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Cross fingers, hopefully things are limited to the top end.

05 TJ RME 42RLE with some things
05 KJ CRD 545RFE, GDE Eco tune, Franky II, Al's 4.5 A-arms, JK Rubi Moabs, Silent Armors 245-70-17's, Spidertrax Adapters, Rola Basket, Fumoto Valve, Pinch welds pounded - Sold 2015
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