06 Jeep Liberty alarm activation issue? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-14-2011, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
ed1
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06 Jeep Liberty alarm activation issue?

Hello everyone...My 06' Jeep Liberty's ignition actuator was just replaced and before the Jeep left me stranded (left the Liberty at a friend's house) I noticed that my alarm wouldn't activate I don't know why, so since I didn't know that the ignition actuator caused my Jeep to stall and not crank again I thought that the truck had an electrical problem so I didn't pay too much attention to it thinking that the problem of the alarm was related with the ignition problem, but now that my truck got the actuator replaced now the alarm doesn't want to activate as soon as I close the door, I have to wait until the dome lights turn off which is about 20 seconds and then like 5 seconds later when the dome lights are now off the alarm activates. The key fobs have good batteries, the alarm behaves the same with both keys so I have no idea what it could be. Another thing this is not too important but now that I'm writing, the warning chime will stay on even when I take the key out of the ignition it will only turn off when I close the door. Any ideas? Please help I'm getting frustrated...

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post #2 of 8 Old 09-15-2011, 01:01 PM
Billwill
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I think your problem is still in the ignition switch area. The actuator that you replaced is basically a rectangular piece of metal/plastic which rotates the ignition switch to the ACC/ON/Start pssitions There is also a thin plastic rod that protudes through the hollow actuator pin which makes a seperate contact in the ignition switch when the key is pressed into position. Then the SKIM circuitry which surrounds the key reads off the security code from the key and checks this with a value stored in the PCM (ECM).
I think that this key-in-slot contact is permanently ON...ie. it thinks that a key is inserted at all times...normaly the Jeep "Pings" when you leave the key in place and open a door.
There is a long post in LOST about problems with this broken actuator...one owner stated that if you fit an actuator from supplier XYZ then you need to fit the corresponding ignition switch from supplier XYZ.
Another owner stated that as he tightened down the ignition switch, he could feel it bottoming out on the actuator. He fixed this by fitting a small spacer between the switch and home position. Remove your ignition switch, it is held on by one small Torx screw and see if you can see if the thin plastic rod is pushing down on the contact even when no key is inserted. If you do not see anything obvious I will post the link to Lost about this actuator problem
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-15-2011, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
ed1
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Thanks for the reply, I finally got a good possibility, anyway, I do definitely agree that the problem is still around the ignition switch area. I was the one who went to purchase the ignition actuator and when I bought it, I took the old broken one to auto parts store to compare and for what I saw they were both 100% identical, I think the only difference is that the new one is shinier than the broken one, so, I really don't think that I need to replace the ignition switch from the other supplier, so by steps the things that I should do like you mentioned is first remove the ignition switch. (you mean cylinder right?) then check if the plastic rod (is it the one that goes in the actuator?) makes contact with the chime contact, is that correct? Also, is all this easily visible?
Also, if I remove the key cylinder will the chime still be dinging? Because if it stops dinging, I think this is a good way to determine if my alarm behaves this way thanks to this issue.

THANKS!!
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-16-2011, 12:25 AM
Billwill
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No you do not have to remove the cylinder....leave the key assembly in place. The actual ignition switch is the component that clips on the end of the actuator rod and is held in place with one small Torx screw. This component has all the wires coming out of it...thick wires for ignition, starting etc. and two thin wires for the key-in-slot contact.....I will post up the circuit diagram for the 2002 model later...should be valid for the later model.
You need to remove the plastic housing sections from around the steering column...these are held together by two Torx screw that you access from underneath the lower cover. You will then see the switch with all its wires...held on by a smaller Torx screw. Remove this switch assembly and have a good look at it and maybe when you put it back in place....add a small washer behind the switch so when you screw the small Torx screw tight....the switch assembly will be slightly further out than before.
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-16-2011, 01:14 AM
Billwill
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OK here is the circuit diagram for the 2002 models....I am sure the actual switch will not have changed in newer models but the wiring in the harness may have changed colors (LB=Light Blue, BK/LB= Black/Light blue stripe)
You can see that when the key is inserted...the plastic rod will make the contact and switch Ground from point G202 at pin 10 on the switch through pin 5 on the switch to the BCM to tell the BCM that a key is all the way in place.
If you disconnect the connector completely, check with an Ohm meter that wire BK/LB goes to ground and that wire LB does not go to ground (it will have some slight reading).If this wire IS going to ground....you have a short to ground somewhere regarding where this wire goes from the switch to the BCM.!!!
Now push a small sharp pin through wire LB so that it pieces the insulation and touches on the copper inside .....this is so you can get your meter leads onto the pin. Replace the switch and with ignition OFF and no key inserted measure the LB wire to ground....should not go to ground if all is working correctly!!!
Now insert a key.....the LB wire should now go to ground!
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-16-2011, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
ed1
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I see now, I'll take a look on the Liberty to see if I can find the problem. Thanks for your post and time, I'll update as soon as I get an answer.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-21-2011, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
ed1
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The problem has been finally solved, it turned out to be the electronic ignition switch, for some reason, it would think that the key was still in the ignition and that's why the chime wouldn't stop and the alarm wouldn't activate, but now that the switch has been replaced, it now works as it should.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 12:53 AM
Billwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed1 View Post
The problem has been finally solved, it turned out to be the electronic ignition switch, for some reason, it would think that the key was still in the ignition and that's why the chime wouldn't stop and the alarm wouldn't activate, but now that the switch has been replaced, it now works as it should.
Yes that was basicaly what I was saying except that your key-in switch contact was jammed or welded shut irrespective of whether or not the key plunger was pressing on it.
The ignition switch is a normal brass contact device...nothing fancy such as an "electronic" switch which implies that there are electronic components inside such as transistors or intergrated circuits....although they probably charge you the same as if it was a fancy switch.
Strange that the switch failed at the same time as the actuator did but the main thing is that the problem is resolved.
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alarm , alarm system , key , key fob , liberty

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