[bieakma]

Its about that time to change the plugs again on my Liberty. I am planning to swap out my old plugs which are Bosch +2 with the factory NGK Platinum plugs. I was also thinking would it be a good idea to replace the coils this time around?

Also is there an easier way of replacing the back to plugs on the passenger side besides killing my knuckles on the coolant reservoir?

My Liberty has 197k and it does have a slight rough idle which is usually resolved with a plug change and also fuel injector cleaner.

What does everybody suggest for fuel injector cleaner? Lastly are changing the coils a good idea?

'05 Liberty
3.7L V6
197k miles
Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil and Mobile 1 oil filter

[LibertyTC]

I would normally recommend that the dealer do a proper emission service, then you can do the plugs, and remove the two nuts at coolant tank to move it slightly out of the way, without disconnecting it.
I also would make sure the air filter and inside the box is totally clean. You can also clean the throttle body intake with a lint free shop towel and spray carb cleaner, if you don't get the dealer emission service.
It may be handy to have a spare or two of the coils, but to just get 6 when they are still firing without a CE light is a waste, unless they are really needed.
Fuel injector cleaning is properly done by the emission service, but if you want you can try a bottle of Chevron Techron (techroline) added to 1/2 a tank of fuel on a good highway boogie, with higher octane fuel. That should get most of the injectors up to speed. I use the Techron 3 x a year.
Best of luck on your tune up.

[T-birdJunkie]

Run Autolite platinums. Last longer than the OE NGKs, and you'll be very happy with how the KJ runs after running those god-awful bosch +2s.
Do a seafoam treatment...should be something outlined if you search the site. Not hard to do, but do that before BEFORE you change plugs.
High octane fuel does nothing but make you spend more money. Unless you have a remapped ECM or Jet module or something similar, there is ABSOLUTELY NO NEED.
Agreed at not replacing the coils unless they are absolutely needed.
inside the airbox is not that much of a necessity. That is why it's there, and why the air filter is there. Have never cleaned the airbox, beyond dumping whatever is in there out when the airbox is already pulled to do suspension work.

[osargd]

Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner, 5.25 ounces # 10020 by Maine Lubrication Service

I’ve used this stuff before in college when some ****** pissed in my gastank... literally 2 mins after startup a bunch of white smoke poured out of my tailpipe. worked like a charm, improved mgp slightly, and also fixed a minor rough idle... I’d recommend this

[T-birdJunkie]

Originally Posted by osargd

Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner, 5.25 ounces # 10020 by Maine Lubrication Service

I’ve used this stuff before in college when some ****** pissed in my gastank... literally 2 mins after startup a bunch of white smoke poured out of my tailpipe. worked like a charm, improved mgp slightly, and also fixed a minor rough idle... I’d recommend this

Not sure if asking why they did that is a good idea.

[Elt31987]

Originally Posted by osargd

Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner, 5.25 ounces # 10020 by Maine Lubrication Service

I’ve used this stuff before in college when some ****** pissed in my gastank... literally 2 mins after startup a bunch of white smoke poured out of my tailpipe. worked like a charm, improved mgp slightly, and also fixed a minor rough idle... I’d recommend this

Mopar Locking Gas Cap Man

[T-birdJunkie]

UGH locking gas caps.

Trooper, Montero, Accord, and 4wd Civic Wagovan all had locking gas DOORS.

What a pain in the *****

[Elt31987]

Originally Posted by T-birdJunkie

UGH locking gas caps.

Trooper, Montero, Accord, and 4wd Civic Wagovan all had locking gas DOORS.

What a pain in the *****

Elt31987 thinks a Locking Gas Door can be easily pried open with a flat head

[T-birdJunkie]

Oh it can, but just saying it was a PITA