[cwildmann]

I just purchased a used Ramsey REP8000 with solenoids that are shot. I was going to redo the whole solenoid pack, cables and add an in-cab controller. Since I was rebuilding the solenoid pack - I am torn as to what solenoids to run and how to wire them? There are a couple of different ways to do this:

1. Warn's version where they use 4 solenoids and switch the ground as well as the hot leads.

2. The typical way where you just use 2 solenoids to switch the hot leads and then the winch is just grounded directly.

What are the advantages/disadvantages to these two setups? Is it worth the effort in switching the ground and hot leads?

Also I've noticed replacement solenoids that are 3, 4, 5 and 6 terminal. Why go with a 6 terminal Solenoid over a 4 terminal? Could you use a 6 terminal solenoid to switch both the hot and ground? So basically one 6 terminal solenoid would do the job of two 4 terminal solenoids in Warn's setup?
DB Electrical Starter-Alternator > winch solenoid,prestolite solenoid,universal solenoid,solenoid


Thanks for all your help.

[potlickinpirate]

I think the less cable the better. Every crimp is inviting corrosion. I am pretty sure you will mount your winch solid....solid =no corrosion. 4vs6 pole check n/o n/c to see if it will work. stay with continuous duty solenoids and you might carry a spare. good luck!

[Skyryder]

4 vs 2, IMO the less parts you use the less chances of something to fail + the fewer connections as all ready stated.

[cwildmann]

I was mistaken -

The Warn setup uses 2 solenoids per direction. This is so that the current flowing to the motor is split between the 2 solenoids (since they are in parallel) and thus the continuous current going through one solenoid is half when compared to a 2 solenoid system. It also adds reliability since the solenoids are not operating close to or above their continuous duty rating and redundancy since if one solenoid craps out - the second can do the job but may be working at or over its rating.

So I think I am going to build a 4 solenoid pack for those reasons. It's the same as carrying 2 spare solenoids with you - just that they are hooked up already and sharing the load.

Yes it is a little more involved but I feel it is worth the extra wires, crimped connections when considering the extra reliability and redundancy.

Thanks for your help guys. I hope that this helps fellow jeepers that might be in the same situation.

[ONEMORE2]

I am having a problem with my milemarker and thinking of doing the same thing with in cab mount .when are you going to start this build? I would like to see some pics if possible .thanks

[cwildmann]

I'll probly start on it next week. There are plenty of websites out there already documenting it tho:

In-Cab Winch Remote Control - 1

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...ontrol-505012/

Winch

In-Cab Winch Control in a 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Using an OEM Power Mirror Switch - YotaTech Forums

In Cab Winch Remote

In Cab Winch Controller


Some premade in-cab control panels:
12voltguy.com - Home

www.offroadcontrols.com

Dash Mounted Winch Controls: Roadless Gear For Jeep

and they have a sweet/cheap wireless winch controller:
Wireless Winch Control: Roadless Gear For Jeep

[cwildmann]

For those of you that need winch solenoid wiring diagrams - see the website below. The wiring diagrams they have created cover just about all winches and winch motors in the market. This is what I used to rebuild and sedesign the solenoid wiring for my winch.

http://www.wms1.com/wms1/InfoDrawings.html

Hope this is a valuable resource to someone.

[Kman1983]

I used the Cole-Hersee solenoid for my rear REP8000. I mounted it on the trans tunnel ahead of the shifter and wired the controller plug under the dash. Works great!! I ran 2/0 cable from the battery through grommetts in the firewall to the solenoid and 2/0 cable out the back(through grommets again) to the winch. I bought a cable crimper for attaching the lugs to the cable and used the heavy duty heat shrink. Inside there are 3 wires from the solenoid to the control plug. I replaced the nuts and washers with stainless ones for less corrosion problems. I think I paid $65. for the solenoid.

[Kman1983]

Heres a link to Cole-Hersee Cole Hersee Co. Click on "solenoids", the solenoid I used is the style like the middle one in the photo.

[KJFactor]

Originally Posted by cwildmann

For those of you that need winch solenoid wiring diagrams - see the website below. The wiring diagrams they have created cover just about all winches and winch motors in the market. This is what I used to rebuild and sedesign the solenoid wiring for my winch.

Information drawings page

Hope this is a valuable resource to someone.

That is by far the best site for wire diagrams. Thanks. It has helped me because I lost the paper I wrote down on how to wire it back together.

[cwildmann]

Kman1983 - Thanks for the recommendation. I decided to go that route as well. I was able to find it here for cheap:

Also I noticed that they are only rated for 75A for 5 minutes only and 150A Surge. I decided to go with 2 and parallel them for double current capacity - you ever have any problems running just 1?

Also how do you like the winch? I am in the process of completely rebuilding it because the clutch froze up and the brushes broke in the motor. How freely does your clutch move?

Also on the winch motor - one post is labeled "1" and the other is "2" - which one is to spool in/out?

Thanks.

[SKT]

Originally Posted by cwildmann

I just purchased a used Ramsey REP8000 with solenoids that are shot.

Originally Posted by cwildmann

I'll probly start on it next week.

Originally Posted by cwildmann

I decided to go that route as well.

I really appreciate all of the information you have provided thus far, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that has benefited from this thread too!

Is there any way you could post some pics of the rebuild, i.e. some detailed pics of the rebuild, or a follow-up on how everything worked out for you?

Thanks again!

[Kman1983]

I replaced the motor on mine and didn't seal it, I guess I should have put a light layer of silicone around it. Anyhow water got in and the brushes need to be replaced, everything else cleaned up and I think it will be fine. I never had a problem with it's operation using one solenoid, it always worked great and the motor never got to hot.

[obxwrangler]

thanks for the great link to the diagrams, very helpfull

http://www.wms1.com/wms1/InfoDrawings.html

[esad_b]

Originally Posted by cwildmann

I just purchased a used Ramsey REP8000 with solenoids that are shot. I was going to redo the whole solenoid pack, cables and add an in-cab controller. Since I was rebuilding the solenoid pack - I am torn as to what solenoids to run and how to wire them? There are a couple of different ways to do this:

1. Warn's version where they use 4 solenoids and switch the ground as well as the hot leads.

2. The typical way where you just use 2 solenoids to switch the hot leads and then the winch is just grounded directly.

What are the advantages/disadvantages to these two setups? Is it worth the effort in switching the ground and hot leads?

Also I've noticed replacement solenoids that are 3, 4, 5 and 6 terminal. Why go with a 6 terminal Solenoid over a 4 terminal? Could you use a 6 terminal solenoid to switch both the hot and ground? So basically one 6 terminal solenoid would do the job of two 4 terminal solenoids in Warn's setup?
DB Electrical Starter-Alternator > winch solenoid,prestolite solenoid,universal solenoid,solenoid


Thanks for all your help.

exact same boat as you. And what exact diagram did you use?

Also what wire size to go between the solenoids, and to the winch? I have the battery end ones.