What's in your recovery/towing box? Tips to avoid getting stuck.

[DevEmp]

I wouldn't discount the Hi Lift too much. One of my first trips in the middle of a dry lake bed left me high centered on a 8 foot rock and silt berm. Once my tires broke the hard crust, it was nothing but silt. I sunk in to the diff's both front and rear, and the only tool I had was my Hi Lift. It took me longer to unbolt it from the bumper than it did to get unstuck. A Hi Lift is also more useful for changing your tires than a winch.

Having said all that, I keep a .50 cal ammo can with a first aid kit, jerk strap, gloves, small section of chain, folding shovel, tire iron, and jumper cables in the back of the LJ at all times. The Hi Lift is mounted on the rear bumper right above the 2 shackles.

[warren977]

i wouldn't discount the hi-lift. I've unstuck numerous trucks with them. Never used it with my tj yet, knock on wood. They are great when hi centered or slick stuck. Also much better for changing tires off rouad than a stock bottle jack. Assuming you know how to use the properly.

[Thunderstrike]

Originally Posted by warren977

i wouldn't discount the hi-lift.

X2 if you don't have a winch or a pull-pal.

[creature]

Originally Posted by Rubi22

Not sure if you have to have one, but I know their winching kit includes one.

You arent going to get very far with the short rigging chains included in the kit. I have the kit and have used it 3 times in the past 2 years (twice jeepin, another for some 'creative" yard work).

the kit is a pain in the butt, takes an excessive amount of energy and time to use, but it usually works. I keep it as a last resort.

[Stout95YJ]

I have a Hi-Lift and have used it successfully 2 times. never used it as a winch though. I think it is a very good tool to have when wheeling.l

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by warren977

Also much better for changing tires off rouad than a stock bottle jack. Assuming you know how to use the properly.

I can't think of too many offroad situations where I couldn't have a tire changed much faster and safer with my bottle jack than with my Hi-Lift. Deep mud/snow being notable exceptions.

[BooBoo]

I wheeled with my hi-lift and 50 ft. of 3/8 chain for a year before i got a winch. After being stuck a number of times for a hour or two i learned to A. choose a line REALLY carefully! B. save the cash for a winch.
i had my CJ stuck up to the rockers in mud and the hi-lift pulled me out everytime it was slow and tiring but it DID work.

[jeff@zina.com]

Hilifts don't work in swamps.

Winch is best. Jacks aren't bad for getting off rocks or other high centering, but "winching" with one will make you give up off roading.

Jeff

[VTZJ]

Originally Posted by kb9qdi

...I personally won't use chains or any recovery straps with metal hooks. There just to dangerous.

X2 on the hooks, but this is the second or third time I have come across the "chains are dangerous" idea on this forum. Can somebody explain to me what this is about?

I have been wheeling and working with chains most of my life, and consider them a practically indispensible part of winter travel or off road gear. Here are some things I always thought were "facts" about chain:

Chains are cheap. Chains last a lifetime in casual use. Chains resist abrasion and cutting much better than straps. With a grab hook on one end, and a slip hook on the other, chains are very versatile and easy to adjust to length. Chains tolerate abuse pretty well, and require almost no maintenance (just hang to dry). Chains tolerate sharp bends and corners better than cable. And chains are very strong. Grade 70 transport chain, pretty common, has a SWL of 6,600 lbs, and a mean breaking strength perhaps 3 or 4x that.

Okay, chains are kind of heavy. And muddy chains are a hassle. But but dangerous? Can somebody explain this?

(1) I know you don't "snatch" with chain.
(2) I know the typical 3/8 chain from MegaloMart is probably NOT grade 70, and the hooks aren't, either.

[Jerry Bransford]

I don't know why anyone who is knowledgeable would claim chains are dangerous for recovery use. Properly rated chains used properly are perfectly safe to use for their intended applications. Heck a rated chain is even included in most winch accessory kits like Warn sells.

[Wup This]

Just thought I'd share this on a recovery thread.

We had an employeed at my work who was recovering a peice of eqipment that was mildly stuck in a yard where other employees were working. They were using a rope that was doubled and had a knot at the end which was attach to a machine. There was a 1" by 10" piece of wood in the knot to keep it from locking up so tight that it wouldn't be able to be untied. The employee was also in the Danger zone between the tow vehicle and the stuck vehicle. The rope snapped between the knot and the stuck vehicle causing the rope to recoil into the employee (who was also on a safety conference call). The rope wrapped around him from the waste up to his head where the piece of wood made contact with his head. They said he was dead before he hit the gound. Needless to say we have had a full reivew of our winching/ recovery policy. I think the bottom line is use approved stuff and KNOW how to use it. It can be VERY dangerous. I did not personnally know this employee as I work for a very large company but it was in the same state as I work and I routinely recover vehicles.

[VTZJ]

Originally Posted by Wup This

...The rope wrapped around him from the waste up to his head where the piece of wood made contact with his head. They said he was dead before he hit the gound...

Vivid. Nice reporting.

[probesport]

Currently the T-Max recovery kit, a few extra shackles, flashlight and a basic set of tools.

[BlackBellamy]

+ tire repair kit

[VTZJ]

What recovery gear do I carry? The usual, plus a transit cluster that I salvaged (cost = $0.25) from an old automobile tie down kit I found at a moving and storage warehouse auction. Here's a picture of one:

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/87/All

I used it yesterday for the first time to pull a Ford Ranger 4x4 out of the ditch (Ranger had good tires, but the roads were bad -- new snow over old ice). Ranger didn't have tow points in front, so rather than hitch to the tie rod as the owner suggested , I hooked the cluster into a factory hole in the very stout 1/4 inch skid plate/frame member under his front diff (IFS), and snapped him right out of there with my 1" x 30' rope.

So the transit cluster is useful if you like to help other, lesser 4x4s out of the ditch. Or if you wheel with knuckleheads who have no front tow points.