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Old 05-24-2004, 11:15 PM   #1
smokinsilverrt
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waterproofing

im a newguy i have a 98 wrangler tj with a 4" lift and 35 x12.5 tires. my question is i just put in a quadratec snorkel and i was told i need ti waterproof my electrical and axle vents how do i do that

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Old 05-25-2004, 04:00 PM   #2
superjoe
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quadratec Snorkle???? what is that???? i thought ARB was the only one that made a snorlke.
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Old 05-26-2004, 01:44 PM   #3
MSHarnett
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I think they are ARB, just sold by quad....

Anyway, Look under your hood for all and any electrical connections. You want to pull apart the plugs and put some DI ELECTRIC grease in there, this well help prevent water from shorting out the electrcal system. As for axle vents, there are breather tubes that allow air in and out of the axle. You'll see if sticking out of the top of the diff. The front goes up near the hood, which is pretty hi, the rear goes to the body, which is pretty low, so you may want to raise that up the best you can.

Also be concerned about the ECU and sensors getting wet, like I said, di electric will help, but may not prevent a short in a full submersion. The alternator can get wet, but when you put dirt in the water (mud) thats a good way to kill it.
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Old 05-26-2004, 02:19 PM   #4
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ok thanks yea i bought it from quadratec its a ARB sorry about the confusion
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Old 05-26-2004, 02:23 PM   #5
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man i was hoping some one else had them and for less than about 300 bucks
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:55 PM   #6
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for the plug connections in the engine bay, do the Dielectric like MS mentioned and then wrap them in friction tape. not electric tape, friction tape. if you've never used it before, you'll find it with the electrical stuff. it's a type of rubber like tape that pretty much only sticks to itself when stretched out. cut a piece off (about 2/3 as long as you think you'll need) and then stretch a small part of it, wrapping it around the plugs as you go. keep stretching it as you wrap. the reason this stuff is better then electrical tape is that it will eventually fuse into a permanent rubber ball and it won't lose its stickiness from heat and water the way electrical tape will so you never have to worry about the tape coming off and getting wet months after you do all this work. if you need to tape it off, just carefully cut it apart with a razor. it may be useful to add a piece of mechanics wire or small gage (about 16) solid copper wire, length wise along the plug so you have a rasied ridge to cut along later on.

also, don't forget about the vents for the tranny (does the auto have a vent?) and the t-case as well. best thing to do for all of these vents is to replace the old line with new, longer lines and route the vent ends to some place higher, like the top side of the firewall or the highest point you can get to in the rear fender wells (for the rear axle). new filters for the end of the lines are a good idea too. seal the bottom of the distributor with silicone but add a vent hose (if you don't already have one) to the top and route that line to the firewall as well. grease your spark plug wires too, both at the dist and the plug boots. this should be done at every tune up and it would probably be a good idea to check it every 20 or 30K miles. one last thing to check are the plug wires themselves. wait for a dark night and open the hood and start the engine. remove the hood lamp and look for any sparks jumping around in the engine. use a flashlight to find the wires, then turn it off while you wiggle the wires around, again looking for sparks. poke around the wire looms, etc too. if you see any sparks, isolate the wire it's coming from and change either the whole wire, or just the broken/worn segment, either by soldering the connection, butt splices, or small wire nuts, all wrapped with shrink tubing and friction tape. for a worn plug wire just change them all. all of this stuff combined will make your rig pretty much invulnerable to water electric wise. all that's left to worry about is the computer (haven't found a good way to water proof that short of relocating it to the cab, high off the floor) the alternator like MS said, the starter/solenoid, the dash and the fuse panel(s).
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:46 AM   #7
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that is alot of really good info, i think that i am going to do alot of that.

(FINALLY DONE!). thats funny. i did not realize that a Jeep can be done.
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Old 06-02-2004, 02:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superjoe
(FINALLY DONE!). thats funny. i did not realize that a Jeep can be done.
oh the jeep isn't done it's just that i sat on that kit for like 3 weeks waiting for a long enough break in the weather that I could take a few days to actually put it on.
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Old 06-02-2004, 03:04 PM   #9
superjoe
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i understand that, i had my 4in springs in my garage for almost a month and then i had waited another month for the tires. i know that very well.
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Old 06-03-2004, 04:06 AM   #10
meich75
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I've heard of people placing the ECU inside a tupperware conatainer with a hole for the wires silconed but have never personally tried it since mine is a 74.
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