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Unread 08-03-2013, 08:59 PM   #16
lar308
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I've tried to find specific posts on EMP affects, but I keep getting side tracked. What I have read neither confirms or defies my understanding of the affects of EMP. With this I'll keep a carb and points distributor for at least one of my vehicles. Ron

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Unread 08-05-2013, 12:28 PM   #17
mike_dippert
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http://jalopnik.com/5937778/how-to-p...houldnt-bother

That article contains at least one link directly to a gov't study. Following the other links will open a Pandora's box of varying opinions from armchair 'experts,' to electrical engineers relaying theory, to actual real world reports from people who study thus stuff first hand. Some trying to create weapons, others creating shields.

Also, if we're going to debate EMP's effects on electronics, can we all be on the same page here. Take a few and read up. EMP, is a broader subject than many people realize. Heres a wiki article. Feel free to follow source links if you don't trust wiki itself. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_pulse

There's nothing wrong with preparing to be next to the source, but an EMP DOES NOT automatically equate to instant colonial era technology. The intensity of the wave that hits your electronics is what matters. A weak pulse from the back of a van in a parking garage 10 miles away probably won't toast your car. An advanced weaponized EMP propogating from 40,000ft could probably knock out a significant area. But the farther that wave travels, the weaker it becomes. Eventually it will be so weak it won't even light up a flashlight bulb.

Without actually testing your electronics to failure, us ordinary folks have no way of knowing the limits of any of our electronics circuits. Call up any electronics company and ask them what field strength the device in question can handle.
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Unread 08-06-2013, 02:39 AM   #18
WSS
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Basic RF it seems. I work with HF everyday. I know I can kill a iPhone or any cell phone if it is on in 36hrs or less, if I set it right on the epicenter of a power source we use through out our shop. All this from 100amps of 220v 3ph converted to 30v/600amp pf power.

If it did not exist, cables would not need shielding (would make my life way easier too). I am forever chasing "RF" or "HF" leaks that find their way into drive boards and dc motors and create havoc. Our shop does not have any "real" power and can still cause trouble.

A guy that used to help me track problems on a few of our CNC machines had a few friends who "rebelled" against the power companies and their new smart meters by building Faraday cages around the meters to block the exiting RF signal to the mother hub. They changed their mind about it when the power companies started to "estimate" the bill, wow. It's not like you can switch your power company when you grow tired of them like your phone service or insurance.

Russia banned microwave ovens due to the size of the wave length not the power output. "microwave" has a wave length smaller than your eye socket and other places of entry to your body, not good. Funny, we can use it to free up bandwith and place cordless phones and cell phones on the same band now, just lower wattage, kinda like the smoker in my backyard, might take six hours instead of 15 minutes, but it'll cook that meat so tender!

Cheers!

WSS
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Unread 08-06-2013, 05:41 AM   #19
mike_dippert
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That's what I took away from it. An EMP burst won't, by default, fry everything with a conductor. They have to be engineered to have a high enough field strength in the right frequency range. Even then, more robust circuits (by design or by accident) may not be effected.
Modern cars' electronics have to be shielded so the systems and sensors don't interfere with each other. The alternator, ignition, even the fan blower motor, all create an EMP of some kind (That's why some people get interference in their CB's). This doesn't make them impervious to a weaponized EMP, but it makes them less fragile than people tend to believe.
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JF taught me that the 2.5L, Ax-5 and D35 together are so powerful that angels weep when I shift into 4LO.
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The only thing a bicycle inner tube is good for, is tying a knot in the end of when you run out of condoms.
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