Warn M8000 mechanical overhaul
Along with the many electrical problems my Warn winch has had, it was also binding. I'm not going to blame the winch. the manual does say that it should be serviced if it gets submerged (it's been submerged several times).
I got much of the info I needed for this project from http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...wn/photos.html
First, get yourself a parts diagram. Not all M8000's are the same. Manuals and parts lists can be downloaded here:
Next, gather the parts you'll need. I ordered replacement gaskets, drum bushings, a thrust washer, and grease. For gear lube, Warn recommends using either Aeroshell 17 or Molylube 1 extreme-pressure synthetic grease.
I ordered the Warn parts from Hoak's 4WD & RV Performance Center 815 Hellam Street Wrightsville, PA 17368 Phone: (800) 827-1341
. They are the closest Warn full warranty service location to me, and they have been helpful when I've needed warranty service.
All mentions of "right" and "left" refer to the winch as viewed from the front. "Right" refers to the end with the clutch release, "left" refers to the end with the electrical hookups.
The left-side (electrical housing) does NOT have to be taken apart to do this overhaul. The electrial housing was removed on mine, and is therefore not in any of the pics, but you don't have to remove it. The housing is held on with two long screws, and you can leave those screws in for every part of this overhaul. You DO NOT want to slide the electrical housing off of the eletrical armature. You won't have fun getting the brushes reseated.
Remove the detent screw that hold the clutch engagement lever. Remove the lever, metal retainer, and O-ring seal.
Remove the socket-head cap screws from the right end housing. Slide the housing off, taking care to pay attention the order of all the parts.
Here's a pic of the end housing, filled with the old grease.
Remove the splined drum drive gear.
On my rebuild, I chose to only remove the left-hand drum support. The right-hand bolts would not come out, even with PB Blaster. Since the bolts are held by nuts, it would be OK to just cut the bolts. You won't end up messing up the drum support.
Once the drum support is off the winch mount, slide the drum out.
On the left-hand side on mine, the plastic drum bushing was worn, and had slightly damaged the drum, where it rides in the bushing. The bearing seemed smooth, and had no play, so that isn't getting replaced.
You can kind of see the damage to the bushing here. The bushing is the gray plastic ring, not the bearing.
On this end of the drum is the drive coupler and brake. We're not going to do anything with the coupler, other than to make sure it goes back in the way it came out.