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Unread 05-11-2015, 10:44 PM   #1
Vagabond52
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Towing my jeep setup help

Hello everyone. I go wheeling occasionally up one of the local mountains here in southern California and I used to drive the jeep up and back. But it's kind of a harsh ride on the tranny going up the mountain on the highway and I don't have as much room to pack things for a long weekend trip that we are doing. I have a truck that could easily tow it, but have only ever towed our trailer. I was looking for some advice on getting a tow bar to tow it behind the truck instead of looking for a trailer. My main concern is what do I need other than a tow bar, safety chain and I guess a wiring harness?

My jeep is also decently lifted. I have a 94 YJ that has a spring over, 2.5" military wrap springs, and currently 35" tires (thinking about getting 37's this week). I have the quick disconnects too that I can use to hook the sway bar back up if that's safer as well.

Maybe I should just put all this money into a trailer instead?

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Unread 05-18-2015, 08:00 AM   #2
Fourtrail
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You either need to add an electric brake system to the jeep so when you press the brake pedal in the truck it also applies the brakes on the jeep or buy a trailer with brakes. Without brakes in the jeep it will have the chance to push the truck in a corner or panic stop.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...g-system/58058
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Unread 05-21-2015, 09:18 PM   #3
jeepdaddy2000
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Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
You either need to add an electric brake system to the jeep so when you press the brake pedal in the truck it also applies the brakes on the jeep or buy a trailer with brakes. Without brakes in the jeep it will have the chance to push the truck in a corner or panic stop.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...g-system/58058
As long as the tow bar angle is correct, you should not need anything other than lights to tow just the Jeep behind a 1/2 ton or larger pick up.
Given your mods to the Jeep, I would opt for a trailer instead of towing. If you go that route, you will want a 3/4 ton truck and trailer brakes.
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Unread 05-21-2015, 10:32 PM   #4
wilson1010
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I would skip flat towing a lifted jeep especially with 37's. Definitely a job for a trailer.
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Unread 05-22-2015, 06:47 AM   #5
JeeperDon
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Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
I would skip flat towing a lifted jeep especially with 37's. Definitely a job for a trailer.
Agreed. I started trailering 14 years ago when my Jeep was a lot less built than vagabond's.
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Unread 05-22-2015, 12:23 PM   #6
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagabond52 View Post
(thinking about getting 37's this week).
What axles are you running? The YJ's Dana 30 front axle is definitely not up to 37's, what is your rear axle? A Dana 44 is questionable for 37's and the YJ's stock Dana 35 is out of the question... even for 35's.
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Unread 05-22-2015, 12:46 PM   #7
Fourtrail
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Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
As long as the tow bar angle is correct, you should not need anything other than lights to tow just the Jeep behind a 1/2 ton or larger pick up.
Given your mods to the Jeep, I would opt for a trailer instead of towing. If you go that route, you will want a 3/4 ton truck and trailer brakes.
He will need an auxiliary brake system in the Jeep as anything being towed over 1500 pounds in California it is required. The 1500 pound weight of a trailer added to the weight of the jeep doesn't magically require a jump from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton and needing brakes. A 1/2 ton will do and adequate job when everything is in working order between the tow vehicle and the brake equipped trailer.

I would, like others, suggest going with a trailer. There have been too many times we have taken something back that was broken in such a way that it could not be flat towed. I also would rather wear the overly expensive tires down on the trail rather than the road.
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Unread 05-22-2015, 04:42 PM   #8
wilson1010
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What axles are you running? The YJ's Dana 30 front axle is definitely not up to 37's, what is your rear axle? A Dana 44 is questionable for 37's and the YJ's stock Dana 35 is out of the question... even for 35's.
Wrong again. Trail myth.

I've been running upgrade axles on my D30/D44 combo for six years without a failure. A person can break any axle with any tire combo. And, anyone can apply appropriate wheel spin and deceleration to avoid breakage even with 37's on a D30. And, with a locked up tight spot any axle will break. It you want to see 60 mph on the speedo when you are standing still you are gonna be replacing axles regularly.

It just takes skill and care.




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Unread 05-22-2015, 05:10 PM   #9
Jerry Bransford
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It's only a myth if you're not running trails hard enough to actually require 37's. And if that's an example of a tough trail there in Ohio, come out to the deserts and mountains of SOCAL where nearly stock Jeeps with 33's get over short climbs like that.

It's more than well known the D30 isn't up to that size tire when the Jeep isn't a mall crawler, only the naive would believe a D30 is up to that big of a tire. If I was only doing easy trails or mall crawling, my D44 axles and chromoly 30 spline shafts would be up to 40's. Since I'm not naive enough about it to place all my faith in that size axle, I limit my tire size to 35's. Especially since the common points of failure or weakness with that big of a tire move out to things like the brakes, axle tubes and ball joints once you install larger or stronger axle shafts.

But you go right ahead and run 37's on your D30 axle. It's no skin off my or anyone else's nose.

In closing, I have a great idea for you since you have decided you can't agree with any of my opinions... go over to Pirate and post that the Dana 30 has no problems running 37's. See what the reaction is.
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Unread 05-22-2015, 06:45 PM   #10
wilson1010
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I agree with a lot of your opinions, you just get it wrong now and then.

The D30 is a good axle.

As for the ledge at the Badlands above, mine was the only rig that climbed it that day. I saw a lot of 35's back down. No 33's would have tried it.

Admittedly, there are a lot of rocks out west. And, as I pointed out, when you get a tire stuck in one, axles break. I was in a H1 that snapped one at 1000 rpm. So what? Rocks do that. If you would do the math (or physics) on it, the force it takes to break a D44 is probably no more than the force it takes to break a D30 plus a little more torque generated by a few hundred more rpms. Take care with a D30 and one can run the more effective tires.

As for Pirate, I get the testicular climate there. Go big or go home. I've rescued more testosterone filled cowboys from their own foolishness to know not to try to argue with them. Fortunately, not everyone has to have a 30' rooster tail of dirt coming off the tires to make it up a hill.
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Unread 05-24-2015, 12:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
I agree with a lot of your opinions, you just get it wrong now and then.

The D30 is a good axle.

As for the ledge at the Badlands above, mine was the only rig that climbed it that day. I saw a lot of 35's back down. No 33's would have tried it.

Admittedly, there are a lot of rocks out west. And, as I pointed out, when you get a tire stuck in one, axles break. I was in a H1 that snapped one at 1000 rpm. So what? Rocks do that. If you would do the math (or physics) on it, the force it takes to break a D44 is probably no more than the force it takes to break a D30 plus a little more torque generated by a few hundred more rpms. Take care with a D30 and one can run the more effective tires.

As for Pirate, I get the testicular climate there. Go big or go home. I've rescued more testosterone filled cowboys from their own foolishness to know not to try to argue with them. Fortunately, not everyone has to have a 30' rooster tail of dirt coming off the tires to make it up a hill.
Well said. Could not agree more.
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Unread 05-24-2015, 05:14 PM   #12
mrblaine
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Wrong again. Trail myth.
I find it rather quaint that the example you use to bust this trail myth is one that puts the least amount of stress possible on the front axle showing it's awesome offroad strength and prowess.

Try it the other way some day and let me know how that worked for you.
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Unread 05-24-2015, 05:59 PM   #13
billiebob
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http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/trailer-brakes/

California requires brakes on one axle/two wheels if you are towing 1500#.
So flat towing a 3000# Wrangler definitely requires a braking system in the towed vehicle.

But for the cost of a NEW car hauler... about $4K.... I'd buy a trailer.
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Unread 05-25-2015, 12:13 PM   #14
jeepdaddy2000
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Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
He will need an auxiliary brake system in the Jeep as anything being towed over 1500 pounds in California it is required. The 1500 pound weight of a trailer added to the weight of the jeep doesn't magically require a jump from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton and needing brakes. A 1/2 ton will do and adequate job when everything is in working order between the tow vehicle and the brake equipped trailer.
Well, that is too bad. Glad I live North of you where you can tow a boat without trailer brakes. It is good information to know, as we pull south of the border from time to time.

As for the 1/2-3/4 ton question. Towing and stopping isn't an issue with a brake assisted trailer, however, dropping down the back side of the Siskiyou's to find you lost a fuse on your trailer brakes is not a good time to think about the disk/drum size difference between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton pick ups.
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Unread 05-25-2015, 06:42 PM   #15
billiebob
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After reading thru the requirements for Canada. All provinces have a requirement for trailer brakes based on the weight of the towed trailer or vehicle. In some provinces trailer brakes are required if the trailer weighs more than 50% of the towing vehicle.. regardless of being under the weight requirement.

Which means that in BC.. while trailer brakes are required on all trailers over 2950#... when towing with a TJ brakes would be required at about 1500#.. 50% of the TJs weight.
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