Running 33s - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
tawinters19
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Running 33s

The other day I had a thread started about whether I should run 33s or 35s and I got a great response with a great write up on absolutely everything you needed to run 35s smoothly. I've been looking around the forum and can't seem to find a write up like this with 33s. I'm talking every single modification you need to make a smooth good looking ride! Thanks!


THOMAS'S ORANGE TJ!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/thomass-orange-tj-2866337/#post26883025
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 07:47 AM
MBateman
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I have a '00 TJ (I'm guessing you are referring to TJ's). I have a 4.0, 5 speed, d30/44, 3.73's.

Mods are ACOS up front adjusted to +1.5", 3/4" spacer in the rear (factory coils), KYB Monomax shocks, 1.25" body lift, 1" engine lift, 33" MTRK's.

I have a SYE and woods shaft but surely 1" of lift would be fine without that. I used those parts to accommodate my tummy tuck. Also running Rokmen/Currie control arms for adjusting pinion angle, but I'm not positive it is necessary with such a small suspension lift.

The jeep rides absolutely awesome. I'm coming from a tj on 35's and 6" lift and the difference is like night and day. I do plan on tube fenders up front so that a 1" bumpstop addition will not be needed. It flexes great and out performs a lot of jeeps with more money invested (in parts that don't work well together).

Very daily driver friendly, no need for a gear swap, and my factory D30/44 handle the abuse well. It also feels ridiculously stable on hills.

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post #3 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 08:13 AM
tyvanwie
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There isn't one for 33s because its not needed. You really just need to fit them properly.

I don't even own a jeep anymore
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 12:23 PM
Filthy-Beast
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Depend on how you fit them drives the answer. What type of wheeling do you plan to do, if any. How much lift, if any?

13 JKUR Build thread

For Sale: 2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks

97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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post #5 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 02:50 PM
TAS
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I went from 33", 4" lift and 3.73's to 35's. Before I regeared, I parked it for a while. Now I'm going back to 33's. I can do everything I wanna do on 33's that I can do on 35's.

Todd
98, I6, 5spd, 4" Lift, 33's and a few other mods that get me there.

Tow rig - 12 F-350 4x4
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-03-2013, 04:36 AM
armyRN
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The only thing 35" tires give you over 33" tires is one inch of ground clearance.

I've got a 98 TJ 2.5 four cylinder/5 speed/4.88 gears/ 285/75/16" tires (33" x 11.5") with a Rubicon Express 3.5" superflex suspension (fixed lowers, adjustable upper control arms, adjustable f/r RE track bars), AA SYE kit, Tom Woods rear driveshaft, Currie antirock, Currie Currectlyc stearing, etc. It runs just fine.
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post #7 of 12 Old 10-08-2013, 01:19 PM
mike_dippert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tawinters19 View Post
The other day I had a thread started about whether I should run 33s or 35s and I got a great response with a great write up on absolutely everything you needed to run 35s smoothly. I've been looking around the forum and can't seem to find a write up like this with 33s. I'm talking every single modification you need to make a smooth good looking ride! Thanks!
Details about your Jeep? (Fill out your profile). Year, engine, trans, axles?
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-08-2013, 09:25 PM
strvger01
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1966 CJ5 
 
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running 31's now. to go to 33's all i need is a 2" body lift. doesn't change the ride, handling, alignment, etc.
it does help when your base rig is an older cj5. even with stock suspension, it's like a small lift is already built right in.

1966 CJ5A, mods are coming
1966 Wagoneer, bone stock
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-09-2013, 12:54 AM
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strvger01 View Post
running 31's now. to go to 33's all i need is a 2" body lift. doesn't change the ride, handling, alignment, etc.
it does help when your base rig is an older cj5. even with stock suspension, it's like a small lift is already built right in.
I've got a 46 CJ2A. If your clutch and brake pedals are "through the floor" type pedals, you'll have issues if you do a body lift. You're going to have to cut the floor for the pedal to work. If your brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder are mounted on the firewall then you're ok.

You might also run into issues with steering wheel to steering box shaft issues with a body lift. If you've got a 360 degree radiator fan shroud you might need to do some trimming so the fan isn't hitting the shroud.

If you've got an early CJ5, I'd recommend a simple spring lift with new shocks.
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-10-2013, 09:57 AM
strvger01
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thanks armyRN. unfortunately, both the body lift and the spring lift have consequences. you've listed the body lift problems.
for the spring lift the issues are alignment, drive shaft angles, drive shaft lengths, pinion angles, and u-joint wear.
i'd rather deal with the body lift sheet metal issues.

1966 CJ5A, mods are coming
1966 Wagoneer, bone stock
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-10-2013, 09:56 PM
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strvger01 View Post
thanks armyRN. unfortunately, both the body lift and the spring lift have consequences. you've listed the body lift problems.
for the spring lift the issues are alignment, drive shaft angles, drive shaft lengths, pinion angles, and u-joint wear.
i'd rather deal with the body lift sheet metal issues.
I know you didn't ask (and I don't mean to derail this thread), but...

There are a couple of companies out there that make 2-3" spring lifts for our early Jeeps (Rancho and Black Diamond come to mind, and I think Super Lifts makes one too). And with that small a lift you're really not going to have the issues you're thinking with alignment, drive shaft angles, etc. I'd hate to see you chopping up your Jeep's sheetmetal. I've got a Rancho 2.5" lift on my CJ2A. I'm thinking we've got essentially the same running gear on our Jeeps (four cylinder engine, T-90 tranny, Spicer 18 transfer case, Warn OD, etc.). I've got 5.38 gears and you've got 4.27 gears.

I love these old Jeeps.

When I got my flatty it had an F-head in it (not a flat-head; an F-head with a hole in the hood for the air cleaner) and 33" tires along with the factory 5.38 gears and a home-made spring lift. The engine wasn't enough to turn the 33" tires in third gear; it would bog down (and that's with 5.38 gears!). Later when I blew up the engine (shattered a piston) we put a 2000cc Pinto engine in there with a Novak adapter. Dropping the tire size to 31" allowed me to use 3rd gear, and sometimes I can even cruise in third overdrive (love the Warn OD) on the highway. So if you're thinking of running 33" tires on your early CJ5 with the 134 F-head four you really need to consider changing your gears to 5.38 (especially if you've got the Warn OD).
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 01:28 PM
GrantYJ
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That's a nice looking flatty armyRN....

“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values
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