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Unread 10-16-2013, 09:31 AM   #1
ReDinTX
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ReD's Big Red HF Trailer build follow along

So I've been following a couple of trailer build threads, stealing ideas from others on the forums, or as I like to call it, "collective creative collaboration" LoL.

Sorry such a long first post, this is a cpl weeks of thinking and doing in one post, the follow ups should be shorter hehe

Anyhow, this past weekend HF was having a parking lot sale and the 4x8 trailer was $269.99 so i bit the bullet and brought her home. (HF 90154 Trailer)

The other thing that sold me on this particular trailer is the fact that its foldable. I have a small garage thats full of crap, only to get more full in teh coming weeks, and my HOA does not allow trailers to be visible from outside of the house

Of the threads I've been following (ArmyRN's & Sahara707's) they have approx 4'x4' trailers. I figured id want a 4x6. I have a lot of crap id like to haul, plus my YJ is my DD and this is the first non pickup truck ive had, so i figured id need the space. The thought crossed my mind about shortening the 4x8 like in a thread i cant find now, but I decided on keeping the full 8'.

Another reason for this, is a lot of guys have found that burying their cooler in the trailer isnt always the most convenient, so some are adding racks to the rear or tongue of the trailer to store their cooler or other items needing to be easily accessible. I really like this thought BUT i do NOT like the thought of shortening my tongue, and I think the rear of the trailer is a good spot for the spare tire, sooooooooooooo. I got to thinking (uh oh )...............Leave the trailer 8', floor all 8', but only make sides 4'x6' and leave the open 2'x4' space at the front of the trailer. That way I have the extra open area AND loose no tongue!! I think i'll accomplish this by adding a piece of angle iron with 2 stake pockets on it under the deck, and cut holed for the stakes. That way the sides are still all removable for storage and using the trailer as a flat bed.



Anyhow, so I got her home and assembled:


Looks good behind the jeep!

Thank GOODNESS for my FSM, it was SUPER simple to find the right color wires in the wire loom to splice in my trailer light plug!

So then off to lowes for lumber & hardware ($200! )


I got all pressure treated lumber.
-3/4" plywood for the floor
-2x4s for the stakes (cut to 27-3/4" to give me 24" above the deck) 4 of them came out to be about 9 and a half feet, so 2 10' ers was perfect
-1x4s for the slats

I got all stainless or galvanized hardware (the selection was crap on the hardware isle of my lowes) Im also using T nuts for the slats (again, an idea I saw on here).

So today i plan to get the trailer finished (if this rain lets up).

So far im really happy with the trailer, it was FAR cheaper than anything else I had looked at, as I was also considering one from tractor supply:

4x6:


4x6 with ramp:


5x7 with ramp:


Bad thing about the TSC trailers is that the fenders are welded on, so upgrading to bigger tires would be a bit of a chore, and im not crazy about the expanded metal floor, as it would be a PITA to remove.

So next on my list is to upgrade the hitch, the 1-7/8" that comes with is, at least mine, is trash. Very stiff and difficult to hook up, so i'm not sure if i'll upgrade the ball hitch AND get an offroad hitch, or just go for the gold and get an offroad hitch.....must do blazer heater upgrade on jeep first LOL

Then i'm gonna look into bigger wheels. I think I can keep the same axle and just put 5 on 4-1/2" hubs and wheel spacers, a lot cheaper than a new axle.

The HF axle spindles on my trailer are NON tapered, with bearing & cup set part number 30205 which the Timken catalog says goes on a 25mm (.9843") shaft.

Northern tools has a 5 on 4-1/2" hub (part number 57205) for $32.99 that fits a NON tapered 1' shaft. Im willing to bet that the .0157" falls within the build tolerances and therefore will be a direct replacement.

Then the wheel spacers, I just happened to get an e-mail ad from ExtremeTerrain.com that had 1-1/2" Spacers for $59.95. Part number J12967.

That hopefully will put the trailer able to wear bigger wheels & tires for around $100. I'm sure thicker spacers can be had as well

I havent gotten serious enough yet about the new wheels to start measuring back spacing on the bigger wheels. Next time im at northern tool I'll try and remember to, so im not sure if 1-1/2" is even enough. But since I just have a body lift on my jeep so my bumper is stock height, I dont need a whole hell of a lot of lift to level out the trailer. But i DO want to get larger wheels for slower bearings.

So thats as far as ive gotten for now. Ill keep yall updated with pics and ideas.

Proceed with ya'lls questions, comments, concerns, flames, general BS, etc.

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Unread 10-16-2013, 09:40 AM   #2
Sahara707
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Great Start !
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Unread 10-16-2013, 10:18 AM   #3
Deuskid
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..... excellent beginning.

I went to the HF website, since you are leaving your trailer the full size, to see what the length will be and it states: Product Length 11-3/5 ft.

Does that mean 11' and 3/5th of a foot? 3/5 of an inch?

Could you measure yours and let me know.

Definitely I'll stay tuned to watch your build.

John
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Unread 10-17-2013, 11:00 AM   #4
JKBender
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Can't wait to see the final direction you go in. Most have gone with a 4 ft box and yours being 8 ft should make for a good gage as to how much stuff can fit vs. how big of a trailer is practical.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 11:18 AM   #5
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuskid
..... excellent beginning. I went to the HF website, since you are leaving your trailer the full size, to see what the length will be and it states: Product Length 11-3/5 ft. Does that mean 11' and 3/5th of a foot? 3/5 of an inch? Could you measure yours and let me know. Definitely I'll stay tuned to watch your build. John
Total length. Bed length. Tongue length.

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image-3592017039.jpg

image-1356716308.jpg

image-1307590956.jpg

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Unread 10-17-2013, 02:03 PM   #6
ReDinTX
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Finished the decking last night.



Notched a little bit for the hinges


Working on the stakes....my dads hand-me-down B&D thats older than I am lol


The stake pockets were slightly too narrow, so I had to shave the 2x4's down just a hair


This thing is worth its weight in GOLD. I've used the CRAP out of it for all KINDS of projects!


All better now


I think 24" was a good height


half way there!!




I personally think it looks pretty dang good back there! not too big, not too small!


Close up of the T nut idea i saw on here.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 12:02 AM   #7
armyRN
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Nice wood working! I like the T-nut idea; I'll be doing some modifications to my trailer when I get home and I'll probably incorporate them. If I were to start over I'd use them instead of countersinking the holes. I wished I'd known about them when I started my build! Oh well, I keep learning stuff as how I "should have" built mine.

It would be so easy for you to get a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate, weld a 12" long 2" receiver tube to it, and replace the flat piece of steel that your current ball coupler is mounted on. Cut the steel plate to shape, drill six holes (three on each side), weld the tube, paint and bolt in place. Then you could have the option of using a ball coupler, lunette ring, or multi-axis hitch. Or could you flip the piece you have now and weld a 12" long 2" receiver tube to the plate?

On my little 4' trailer (actually 40" x 50"), I got a replacement axle four inches wider (2" wider on each side) to run 205/75/15" tires on 5" rims with 2.5" backspacing. And that left me with just over an inch as I recall of space between the edge of the tire and the trailer's frame. So your 1.5" spacers aren't going to let you run certainly any tires/wheels larger than 205/75/15". Now if you narrow the frame a couple inches on both sides it has the same effect as widening the axle (or putting spacers on). Plus narrowing the frame is free! You'd just have to re-weld the spring perches on the axle inward the same amount you narrowed the frame on each side. Narrowing the frame 2-3" in each side should have a minimal effect on your trailer's carrying ability - you wouldn't have to buy wheel spacers either (you'd be saving money actually). Other than the cost of getting the spring perches moved it's a free project - just your labor. And if you can cut and weld the perches yourself it truly would be a free project.

I'm looking forward to following your build progress. Keep the pictures coming!
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Unread 10-19-2013, 08:07 AM   #8
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Nice wood working! I like the T-nut idea; I'll be doing some modifications to my trailer when I get home and I'll probably incorporate them. If I were to start over I'd use them instead of countersinking the holes. I wished I'd known about them when I started my build! Oh well, I keep learning stuff as how I "should have" built mine.

It would be so easy for you to get a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate, weld a 12" long 2" receiver tube to it, and replace the flat piece of steel that your current ball coupler is mounted on. Cut the steel plate to shape, drill six holes (three on each side), weld the tube, paint and bolt in place. Then you could have the option of using a ball coupler, lunette ring, or multi-axis hitch. Those were my thoughts exactly when I saw how the hitch was put together. Even just un bolting the current hitch and bolting some other type (or size) in its place. Or could you flip the piece you have now and weld a 12" long 2" receiver tube to the plate?


On my little 4' trailer (actually 40" x 50"), I got a replacement axle four inches wider (2" wider on each side) to run 205/75/15" tires on 5" rims with 2.5" backspacing. And that left me with just over an inch as I recall of space between the edge of the tire and the trailer's frame. So your 1.5" spacers aren't going to let you run certainly any tires/wheels larger than 205/75/15". If i changed back spacing on the wheels i might could make it work. Not sure if they do different back spacing on trailer wheels, but the 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern is the same as my jeep, and they sell wheels for vehicles with different back spacing. cheap steel wheels like trailer ones are $60-$80 ea.Now if you narrow the frame a couple inches on both sides it has the same effect as widening the axle (or putting spacers on). Plus narrowing the frame is free! You'd just have to re-weld the spring perches on the axle inward the same amount you narrowed the frame on each side. Narrowing the frame 2-3" in each side should have a minimal effect on your trailer's carrying ability - you wouldn't have to buy wheel spacers either (you'd be saving money actually). Other than the cost of getting the spring perches moved it's a free project - just your labor. And if you can cut and weld the perches yourself it truly would be a free project. I'm happy with the width of the trailer now. At most i'll change axles, but im gonna investigate the wheel spacer and back spacing ideas.

I'm looking forward to following your build progress. Keep the pictures coming!
please see flavored text above...
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Unread 10-23-2013, 09:17 PM   #9
ReDinTX
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Few updates.....

Loaded the trailer for the first time the other day, moving my tools from my 42' racecar hauler to my house.



Only a few hundred pounds, but she pulled and rode great! fuel miles only dropped about 1.3-1.5MPG on the highway at 60-65MPH!

I ordered these corner stake brackets to hold the corners together


I'm gonna mount them so the front and rear panels can be removed while keeping the sides on.

And tonight, I replaced the zerks on the hubs (one had fallen out and the other didnt work).

Surprisingly they were 1/4"X24 but the bearings and lugs are metric The bearings had also seated so I tightened the castle nut up one notch to remove the slack and topped em off with grease. Should be good until I replace hubs with bigger ones!
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Unread 11-01-2013, 04:16 PM   #10
ReDinTX
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Did some measuring today...

the stock spare for my jeep (5 on 4-1/2" wheel) is a 215/75-15 which is about 27" in diameter, vs. the approx 20" diameter of the trailer tires. My thoughts were to try and get another jeep wheel from craigslist for cheap-o. So i started measuring backspacing........

about 5-1/2" on the jeep where vs. approx. 2-3/4"!!! Even with the spacers I was looking into, the jeep wheel wont work

sooooo back to the drawing board for me...

boooooooooo
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Unread 11-11-2013, 11:40 AM   #11
R3dRid3r
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Cool work!

I wonder how do you store your trailer?

Do you set it on end in your garage?
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Unread 11-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #12
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3dRid3r
Cool work! I wonder how do you store your trailer? Do you set it on end in your garage?
Yes. I have to since HOA wont allow trailers stored outside. Was another selling point of the bigger trailer.

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Unread 11-11-2013, 12:13 PM   #13
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReDinTX View Post
Did some measuring today...

the stock spare for my jeep (5 on 4-1/2" wheel) is a 215/75-15 which is about 27" in diameter, vs. the approx 20" diameter of the trailer tires. My thoughts were to try and get another jeep wheel from craigslist for cheap-o. So i started measuring backspacing........

about 5-1/2" on the jeep where vs. approx. 2-3/4"!!! Even with the spacers I was looking into, the jeep wheel wont work

sooooo back to the drawing board for me...

boooooooooo
If you narrowed your trailer a couple inches on each side it would have the same effect as putting a wider axle on the trailer. And your labor is free.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 12:29 PM   #14
BIGBADWOLF
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Nice work. One thing worth mentioning...when I built my HF trailer I put the side boards on the OUTSIDES of the 8 stakes. This allows a full 4x8 storage area in case you ever need to haul plywood or building panels.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 01:40 PM   #15
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN
If you narrowed your trailer a couple inches on each sideit would have the same effect as putting a wider axle on the trailer. And your labor is free.
I like havin the full 4' width though
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