I never said its bullet proofing. I just said it offers superior rust protection, is durable, and is cheap if you do it yourself.
No, you said if you had to do it over btw pc and por, you would do por because it offers "much better" protection, is DIY and is as tough. Then later you compare it to sub salt water conditions.
I have been trying to tell you that por is nothing close to pc level of protection.
The potential problem with PC is when (for any reason) it gets scratched though or chipped off in a spot (may be from a rock hit, or other cause) water starts working its way under it.
Yep. Just like every other similar type thing like paint.
People who live in the rust belt (more than half of the USA) drive in, on, though salt water every day during every Winter. The level of salt water exposure is comparable to driving (at high speed) through 1/8" of surf (with deeper puddles at times) every day for 4 to 6 months of every year. Vehicles eventually get totaled by rust. So analagies to paint on ocean going ships are relevant.
You don't have those ^ Winter conditions and salted roads in Louisiana. Your situation is different.
Really, is Louisiana not in the rust belt? We don't do that salt thing, but I know what rust is and how it comes about.
POR15 was made specifically to protect against salt water.
POR15 is rather durable for resisting impact and abrasion - more than typical spray paints. I saw a video where POR15 was painted onto a pipe. The pipe was beaten against heavy metal objects until the pipe was flattened on one side. The POR15 was undamaged. I'd call that durable.
Once again, you are comparing a pipe being hit against something as if that is how you treat your jeep. Thing about it this way, if you paint por on a piece of tin foil, and hit it on something, the foil will fold or 'flatten out' before the metal does (I just said that to show you how that statement can be flawed).
Also, I would think you could touch up the skids with por btw wheeling trip if the coating started to break, which it will.
Once again, I was just trying to inform you, pc is better than po for protection in areas that need protection. I have por on my axles (couldnt pc at the time) and had pc on every piece of armor (side and bottom) and there is no way I would use por a single skid or anything that you want to look nice.
Powder coat can give great rust protection IME if these things are done:
1) Really good prep work before painting.
2) A coat of powder coat zinc primer. (Very effective rust protection)
3) Then a coat of powder coat paint.
Yes you just described the process. Good job.
IME that ^ works great, but is expensive (because every part is powder coated twice). This is what I did on my skid plates on my prior Jeep and current Jeep.
No sh*t. Same can be said about painting or any top coating procedure. So you are saying that you had a guy that didn't prep, and it turned out bad. No offense, but you picked the wrong guy. That is your fault buddy. Read my post above. All of my personal pc was done by me on the first try, I know what to do to prep it. I had lived that story.
Don't blame the donut because the donut shop didn't make it right. Go to a better donut shop.
But most people's powder coat skips steps 1 and/or 2. Skipping steps 1 or 2 makes it vulnerable to rust IMO. Especially if living in the rust belt.
After recently putting POR15 on my diff housings, I think POR15 could be a good alternative for skid plates, cost less, and be a good DIY project.
Once again see above. Your argument is base on something else besides the product of PC. Since you keep bring up bad prep, I will say this. Por is the exact same way. If you can prep for one, you can don't for both. Maybe next time you prep your stuff that goes to the PC guy, he might give you a discount and you will know it was prepped right before. Then, if it flakes you will know what it was and why. Or just por everything
... There is a reason no one does that already.