MY poor man's paint job and herculiner - Page 4

HeepToJeep · 05-27-2008, 01:50 AM

Indy, do you have any write-ups, additional photos ect of your spray-on projects using Rustoleum?

Wm

cody11ca · 05-28-2008, 03:23 PM

I'm doing this same project right now and trying to perfect it on just my doors. It seems that whenever i roll it on i get bubbles in the paint. Is it to thick?

DT5150 · 05-28-2008, 03:47 PM

i read a write up on this somewhere else, said not to shake the paint. causes the bubbles. so in this case, stirred, not shaken. did you shake yours?

cody11ca · 05-28-2008, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DT5150

i read a write up on this somewhere else, said not to shake the paint. causes the bubbles. so in this case, stirred, not shaken. did you shake yours?

I did shake it yesterday but today it still produced bubbles, i guess i will stir it from now on.

Indy · 05-28-2008, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeepToJeep

Indy, do you have any write-ups, additional photos ect of your spray-on projects using Rustoleum?

Wm

Funny enough I was just thinking about doing a write-up this afternoon while I was doing the second color on my hood. If I had thought about it a couple weeks ago I would have taken progress pics, but all I'll be able to do now is before/after. Well, I suppose I could sand it back down and start over...

I can probably get one put together, but it will be a few days. I'm almost ready for reassembly and want to get the little rig back up and running. Driving my truck every day is killing me on gas.

If I can find a couple pieces of sheet steel I can show some simple dent repair and surface prep, separate write-ups for doing paint the right way vs. doing a 20/20 job. For off-road vehicles I recommend the 20/20 method.

HeepToJeep · 05-29-2008, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Indy

Funny enough I was just thinking about doing a write-up this afternoon while I was doing the second color on my hood. If I had thought about it a couple weeks ago I would have taken progress pics, but all I'll be able to do now is before/after. Well, I suppose I could sand it back down and start over...

I can probably get one put together, but it will be a few days. I'm almost ready for reassembly and want to get the little rig back up and running. Driving my truck every day is killing me on gas.

If I can find a couple pieces of sheet steel I can show some simple dent repair and surface prep, separate write-ups for doing paint the right way vs. doing a 20/20 job. For off-road vehicles I recommend the 20/20 method.

I've done a fair bit of spraying so I don't have too many questions, but, it'd be very helpful to those that haven't....I look forward to reading it, thanks!

Wm

HeepToJeep · 05-29-2008, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody11ca

I did shake it yesterday but today it still produced bubbles, i guess i will stir it from now on.

In the original write-up by the pioneer of this process he did state that it's best to stir instead of shake and that some bubbles were normal, but, if the paint's mixed as thin as it's supposed to be they will generally pop and level out very quickly. BTW, you guys should check out Rolledon.com

Wm

ImportEater · 05-29-2008, 02:06 AM

I jumped ahead of my set build schedule today, the paint was calling me. I had to see what it would look like.

Yes, afew cans of spray paint from Lowes(rustoleum).

3 coats so far, maybe 1-2 more, then afew coats of clear.
I had afew minor problem areas. Snaded them lightly then reprimed those areas. Then shot the color. Light coats, even coverage is key with spray paint. Also, a very good prep cleaning. Cant skip this part or it will show.

What do you think???

collkid · 05-29-2008, 02:17 AM

I started this yesterday, got a question for you... What did you do to get off the Factory Clear Coat? I'm sanding like crazy!!!

ImportEater · 05-29-2008, 02:46 AM

I used afew different ways really. I started with just my thumb and some 60grit. I took most of the old off to bare metal or primer. You can tell after some sanding. Finally I grabbed my 4 1/2" grinder and went to work with some sanding disks. Then 1-2 wipes with acetone, then prime. Then a light coat of color. Followed shortly with a second light coat. The third is where I go abit thicker. Not much though. All said and done I should have 5-7 coats of color and 3-4 of clear. I always go thick, but in stages.

I also cranked some Tom Petty and audioslave and had several Red Stripes. God I love my garage...

If you need any more help, just let me know.

collkid · 05-29-2008, 03:24 AM

Ah so just need to "man up" really... I used some Paint removal solution and that seemed to help...

when you went sanded... didn't the sand paper get almost "Dull" within just a few strokes?

ImportEater · 05-29-2008, 12:00 PM

Yup. Just man up and get er done. Yea, snad paper turns to crap quickly. The clear coat really clogs it up it seems. At least for me anyway.

You CAN get a quality paint job from a rattle can. Just as good and pretty looking as a sprayer. I know cause I have done afew. If you do it right, no one will ever know.

Just like with Herculiner, its all in the prep work. Sand, clean, sand again. Some more cleaning, then primer. After that just light coats. But alot of them.

Indy · 05-29-2008, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeepToJeep

Indy, do you have any write-ups, additional photos ect of your spray-on projects using Rustoleum?

Wm

Started to reassemble this afternoon, I had 15 minutes before I had to be back to work.

Before:

Not quite "after", but getting close :

It's actually more yellow than the pics, I need to figure out color setting on my camera. 2 coats yellow, 1 coat black, flares done by rattle can. Each coat of yellow took roughly 30 minutes. No color sanding and roughly 1/10th the surface prep it really should have gotten. But I plan on it taking a few dings here and there, so what's the point of having a perfect body?

HeepToJeep · 05-30-2008, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Indy

Before:

Not quite "after", but getting close :

Awwww, it's a baby Jeep! lol That looks great man, I bet laying out that hood graphic with masking tape was a b!tch. On a side note, are the Samis as good offroad as the short-body Jeeps and XJs?

I'm pretty partial to the Sunburst yellow you used, it's one of several I've been debating painting my XJ with. On projects that matter, do you go through the trouble of painting the engine bay, interior behind the panels and under the carpet? Have you ever checked with any paint suppliers to see if they could custom mix Rustoleum to match factory paint? What mix ratio/solvent are you using on your paint in order to spray it? Do you remove all of the clearcoat prior to spraying? Ever used a clearcoat over the Rustoleum? And so ends my interrogation....

Wm

Indy · 05-30-2008, 11:45 AM

Ya, the jeeps are still in pieces in the shop. Some day I'll have time to work on them again. I really don't know how well the sammi's do off road yet. I picked this up in november and my work schedule hasn't allowed much time to play.

If you're after a show style paint job you've got to do everything right. The engine bay needs to be stripped of everything including engine and have the same quality finish as the rest of the body. Same with panels etc. It's been years since I've felt the need for something like that though. For a basic paint job I just clean up the bay and rattle can it black and try to limit the overspray on the engine itself. I pull panels and carpet and make sure the exposed areas get painted so they run several inches past the panels edge, but that's about it.

In any case you'll end up with a better overall job if you pull the doors/hood/tailgate off and shoot them separately from the body. It also eliminates the need to back-mask all the door jambs, and cuts a day off of your paint time. Everything else like trim, pull it off. You'll spend a lot less time and end up with a better job by removing the pieces than by trying to mask and shoot around them. The mask and shoot is really tempting for simplicity, but it's really more time consuming than doing it right.

I don't think an auto paint store would even mess with mixing rustoleum. From what I've seen they need a factory color code, and then each paint manufacturer will have their own recipe to get the color. I doubt rustoleum will have an automotive recipe book. You may have a good shop that will try to come up with their own, but I've never run across one.

Here's a quick how to for mixing rusto. On the off chance you read sammi boards, you've seen me write this before.

1. Stir paint in can
2. Fill guns paint cup roughly 75-80% full.
3. Add off the shelf paint thinner until the cup is roughly 90% full. Stir with a stick you found laying on the ground.
4. Adjust pressure/pattern and shoot. If it shoots smooth, your mix is close enough. If it seems too thin, dump some out and add some paint. Too thick, add some thinner.

That's pretty much it. No measuring cups or anything, just eyeball it and get to work.

If you're existing paint is in good shape, not flaking off etc. all you need to do is scuff it with a 3m pad to knock the gloss down and give the surface some tooth. If your paint is in bad shape, you'll need to sand and do real surface prep.

I've clearcoated with rusto's rattle can clear, and it was a bigger pain than it was worth. It's just too difficult to get an even coat, and the glossier the surface is the more obvious your **** ups become and the more work you have to put into it when you're done painting. You can probably find the clear by the quart and shoot it out of a gun and get good results though. An even clear coat (2 -3 coats really) followed by color sanding can turn a good paint job into a giant colored mirror. I had a mustang I repainted, using good paint, doing everything right, tons of color sanding etc. I could hold a book up 2-3 feet away from it and read the words in the finish. It was perfect, but I did body/paint/etc for 3-4 hours a day 5 days a week for almost a year

. Then I sold it and the guy that bought it wrapped it around a tree. So now I really prefer this method, done in a weekend usually and then I get to bang it off of trees.

*edit*

The hood took roughly 5 minutes to get set, 3 of that was deciding what to do. It's all done with paint, no cheezy stick on pinstripes.

Close-up:

05-30-2008, 11:45 AM	#60
Indy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: WY Posts: 1,452 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Ya, the jeeps are still in pieces in the shop. Some day I'll have time to work on them again. I really don't know how well the sammi's do off road yet. I picked this up in november and my work schedule hasn't allowed much time to play. If you're after a show style paint job you've got to do everything right. The engine bay needs to be stripped of everything including engine and have the same quality finish as the rest of the body. Same with panels etc. It's been years since I've felt the need for something like that though. For a basic paint job I just clean up the bay and rattle can it black and try to limit the overspray on the engine itself. I pull panels and carpet and make sure the exposed areas get painted so they run several inches past the panels edge, but that's about it. In any case you'll end up with a better overall job if you pull the doors/hood/tailgate off and shoot them separately from the body. It also eliminates the need to back-mask all the door jambs, and cuts a day off of your paint time. Everything else like trim, pull it off. You'll spend a lot less time and end up with a better job by removing the pieces than by trying to mask and shoot around them. The mask and shoot is really tempting for simplicity, but it's really more time consuming than doing it right. I don't think an auto paint store would even mess with mixing rustoleum. From what I've seen they need a factory color code, and then each paint manufacturer will have their own recipe to get the color. I doubt rustoleum will have an automotive recipe book. You may have a good shop that will try to come up with their own, but I've never run across one. Here's a quick how to for mixing rusto. On the off chance you read sammi boards, you've seen me write this before. 1. Stir paint in can 2. Fill guns paint cup roughly 75-80% full. 3. Add off the shelf paint thinner until the cup is roughly 90% full. Stir with a stick you found laying on the ground. 4. Adjust pressure/pattern and shoot. If it shoots smooth, your mix is close enough. If it seems too thin, dump some out and add some paint. Too thick, add some thinner. That's pretty much it. No measuring cups or anything, just eyeball it and get to work. If you're existing paint is in good shape, not flaking off etc. all you need to do is scuff it with a 3m pad to knock the gloss down and give the surface some tooth. If your paint is in bad shape, you'll need to sand and do real surface prep. I've clearcoated with rusto's rattle can clear, and it was a bigger pain than it was worth. It's just too difficult to get an even coat, and the glossier the surface is the more obvious your **** ups become and the more work you have to put into it when you're done painting. You can probably find the clear by the quart and shoot it out of a gun and get good results though. An even clear coat (2 -3 coats really) followed by color sanding can turn a good paint job into a giant colored mirror. I had a mustang I repainted, using good paint, doing everything right, tons of color sanding etc. I could hold a book up 2-3 feet away from it and read the words in the finish. It was perfect, but I did body/paint/etc for 3-4 hours a day 5 days a week for almost a year . Then I sold it and the guy that bought it wrapped it around a tree. So now I really prefer this method, done in a weekend usually and then I get to bang it off of trees. edit The hood took roughly 5 minutes to get set, 3 of that was deciding what to do. It's all done with paint, no cheezy stick on pinstripes. Close-up: __________________ Never underestimate the power of stupid.