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Unread 10-18-2013, 12:48 PM   #991
pentaflex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
[...] But the black ones come with a longer tongue, better quality cross members, and the previously mentioned frame braces. [...] So you pay more for the black trailer to get a better quality base to build from with more options.
Do any of us really know the difference between these two (red vs black)? I mean, down to the specs? I don't. Anyone seen the two together in person?

Clearly, the black trailer tongue is longer [how much?] and it comes with 'A' frame bracing. How do you know the cross members are better quality or the base in general is better quality? (I'm not disputing this; just asking.)

From pictures, it appears the red trailer tongue is stronger than the black because it has tabs welded across the 'C' channel at several points. But that is only a guess. I only know the steel in the red tongue is much thicker than in its cross members and rails. I've never seen a black trailer in person.

Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
We should be putting it to music, such as:

Be true to your school

Love the one you're with

If I can't have you (I don't want nobody baby)

I love my truck

Can't think of any others off the top of my head, but I'm sure there are other songs related to this theme... anyone?

Obviously I'm bored sitting here in Kuwait waiting for my Freedom Flight to the states tomorrow.
Indeed! I like it!

In the end, it really comes down to what you want from the trailer and what mods you intend to make yourself. If you have the skills and access to scrap metal, you can probably build a trailer frame from scratch cheaper than anying. If you have no interest in metal fab or box building the black trailer may be for you. If you intend to replace the tongue anyway then it makes no difference how long or sturdy the stock tongue is. Same for axle, springs, wheels. A rear receiver isn't important to me and I intend to extend the tongue when I add a front receiver, so again the stock length is irrelevant.

For me, modification of the red trailer was required. (I added 'A' frame bracing, cross member bracing, and intend to add a receiver to the tongue.) But some of those mods would have been required of the black trailer too, so why not start with the cheaper one?

Maybe this discussion is analogous to the choice between a Rubicon and non-Rubicon Jeep. If you intend to build a hard core wheeler don't buy the Rubicon because you'll be throwing those parts away anyway. But if you want a more capable stock Jeep, the Rubicon is for you.

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Unread 10-18-2013, 09:15 PM   #992
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Army congrats on coming home!

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Unread 10-19-2013, 10:35 PM   #993
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AWEAOME might do. thanks for write up
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Unread 10-20-2013, 06:23 AM   #994
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You are correct, if you are going to be really modifying it they're essentially the same. But there are minor differences, and for some it does make a difference.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 02:56 PM   #995
pentaflex
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Adding a receiver to the tongue

I've been wanting to replace the ball receptacle with a standard receiver (as others here have done). There are a couple advantages. It will allow me to swap out and use different types of couplers -- 3-axis, pintle, ball, etc. And it extends the length of the tongue, which I think will be helpful, especially on my "red" trailer.

Again I tried to find the simplest solution. I picked up a 12" hitch extender from HF and simply bolted it on.

The tongue is not square; it's a 'C' channel about 2-1/2" x 2" with tabs welded across to close it in various places. First step is to remove the existing ball coupler, then cut out the front tab and trim the sides to allow the 2" receiver to fit. Next, measure and drill a 5/8" hole to match where the clevis pin goes through.

Next, I added 1-1/2" flat steel bar to each side that acts like a big washer to fill the space between the extender and the tongue walls. Running these another 6" back inside the tongue adds some strength. (Hence the third bolt that goes through closer to the box. It has a bushing made from a piece of pipe around it.) Right now, I have a standard clevis pin installed. I intend to replace this with something that I can anchor the safety chains to. The final pic shows the tongue length as measure from the front cross member. Obviously the true length will depend on the coupler used. I hope it's not too long, but if so I can always cut it down.
img_0380.jpg   img_0384.jpg   img_0387.jpg   img_0389.jpg   img_0391.jpg  

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Unread 10-22-2013, 07:31 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
I've been wanting to replace the ball receptacle with a standard receiver (as others here have done). There are a couple advantages. It will allow me to swap out and use different types of couplers -- 3-axis, pintle, ball, etc. And it extends the length of the tongue, which I think will be helpful, especially on my "red" trailer.

Again I tried to find the simplest solution. I picked up a 12" hitch extender from HF and simply bolted it on.

The tongue is not square; it's a 'C' channel about 2-1/2" x 2" with tabs welded across to close it in various places. First step is to remove the existing ball coupler, then cut out the front tab and trim the sides to allow the 2" receiver to fit. Next, measure and drill a 5/8" hole to match where the clevis pin goes through.

Next, I added 1-1/2" flat steel bar to each side that acts like a big washer to fill the space between the extender and the tongue walls. Running these another 6" back inside the tongue adds some strength. (Hence the third bolt that goes through closer to the box. It has a bushing made from a piece of pipe around it.) Right now, I have a standard clevis pin installed. I intend to replace this with something that I can anchor the safety chains to. The final pic shows the tongue length as measure from the front cross member. Obviously the true length will depend on the coupler used. I hope it's not too long, but if so I can always cut it down.
Looks good! Good job getting creative and making it a bolt-on affair with off the shelf parts.
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Unread 10-23-2013, 08:07 PM   #997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Looks good! Good job getting creative and making it a bolt-on affair with off the shelf parts.
Thank you!

I found one of your earlier posts, where you said the tongue on your trailer is ~ 44" from box to center of the lunette ring. Mine should end up a couple inches short of that. That's a relief, because I thought it might be too long. I'm looking for a pintle hook and ring on Craig's List so I don't know for sure yet.

Folks with the black trailer might want to cut their tongue shorter if they intend to make a mod like I did, otherwise it may end up too long. Your design avoids this, and has the added advantage of stepping down so you don't have to drop the bumper hitch quite as far.

BTW, if you're back from Bagram, welcome home! Knowing your profession, I hope you were not busy there!
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Unread 10-24-2013, 12:43 AM   #998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKBender
Go with a 12" hitch extender by Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-hitc...der-69882.html With a 20% coupon it is only 16 bucks and a DOT approved / bolt on solution.
The hf extender arrived today but of course needs a big *** bolt to attach to the existing hitch! But it works i think! Pic tomorro. Thx for the suggestion
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Unread 10-24-2013, 08:08 AM   #999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
Thank you!

I found one of your earlier posts, where you said the tongue on your trailer is ~ 44" from box to center of the lunette ring. Mine should end up a couple inches short of that. That's a relief, because I thought it might be too long. I'm looking for a pintle hook and ring on Craig's List so I don't know for sure yet.

Folks with the black trailer might want to cut their tongue shorter if they intend to make a mod like I did, otherwise it may end up too long. Your design avoids this, and has the added advantage of stepping down so you don't have to drop the bumper hitch quite as far.

BTW, if you're back from Bagram, welcome home! Knowing your profession, I hope you were not busy there!
I'm glad to be back. It wasn't bad as my first deployment to Bagdad in 2005 where I was the HN of an ICU.

I really like this extension idea and the fact it gives you a 2" receiver. The only thing I would add is a bolt straight down from the top near the back end of the extension to tie it in in a different plane.

And one of those 2" receive lunette ring thingies will add another 5" from the face of the receiver tube to the center of the ring (I just went out and measured).
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Unread 10-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #1000
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Congrats on starting a great thread!

ArmyRN, Did you ever think this thing would grow to 1,000 posts? Thanks for inspiring us all to build these little trailers, and for your continuing support.

For everyone else, whether you're a "red" trailer guy, a "black" trailer, or something other, building one of these is a great project that results in a very useful implement for your Jeep. Some of us have had so much fun we may even start building a second!
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Unread 10-24-2013, 03:37 PM   #1001
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ArmyRN, Did you ever think this thing would grow to 1,000 posts? Thanks for inspiring us all to build these little trailers, and for your continuing support.

For everyone else, whether you're a "red" trailer guy, a "black" trailer, or something other, building one of these is a great project that results in a very useful implement for your Jeep. Some of us have had so much fun we may even start building a second!
Thanks to everyone that posts their trailer builds and ideas! And no; I never thought this thread would take off like it did.

And now that I'm back from deployment, I think I've got at least three trailer projects waiting for me:

1. Swap end panels so spare is on rear, and reinforce where boards meet with some "L" brackets (since the spare won't be resting on the tongue anymore).

2. Shorten cargo carrier from 60" to 40" and mount on front tongue (it'll be 40" by 20" deep once shortened).

3. Mount new longer fenders on sides.

4. Lengthen tongue by about 12" (using 2.5" angle iron as someone else posted). I'll bring them all the way to the rear and add a 2" receiver tube (probably from Harbor Freight) on the back end.

5. Find some Jeep YJ bumperettes and mount to rear of trailer, and see if I need to move the spare up any.

I think I'll still have room to keep the large gas jug on the front after swapping end panels; I think the ice chest I'm looking at will still fit on the cargo carrier with the gas can between the cooler and the front panel where it's attached (the cooler's base is 30" x 14.5"; the gas tank thing sticks out 4" from the front panel, and the cargo tray is 20" deep).

http://www.hpcoolers.com/icey-tek-70-quart-long-box/

Ok; that's at least five projects, and I'm probably forgetting one or more.

Oh yeah; #6 - reinforcing the frame crossmembers where the tongue attaches (probably with some angle iron). I'll be spending a few bucks on drill bits and mounting hardware!
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Unread 10-25-2013, 10:28 PM   #1002
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I love this thread BUT I just found something local for sale. It's $200. It has rust, It has a Ford logo on the back! The spring Ubolts are loose. . Strange 'old' shackles seem still attached.; Is it worth having? 14" wheels
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Unread 10-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #1003
pentaflex
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I love this thread BUT I just found something local for sale. It's $200. It has rust, It has a Ford logo on the back! The spring Ubolts are loose. . Strange 'old' shackles seem still attached.; Is it worth having? 14" wheels
Looks like a great find to me, but it will need some work. The shackles aren't properly mounted for the length of springs being used, and the axle sits too low to the ground for good off-road clearance. But if the rust is only on the surface it looks like it has great potential for $200.
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Unread 10-26-2013, 08:50 AM   #1004
billybooster2
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Looks like a great find to me, but it will need some work. The shackles aren't properly mounted for the length of springs being used, and the axle sits too low to the ground for good off-road clearance. But if the rust is only on the surface it looks like it has great potential for $200.
I thought it was kinda interesting too. I could flip the axle to sit as a spring under configuration, giving more underneath room I think. Would that work? I would use old springs (for now) and mount them with the shackles pointing the right way. As it has three wheels that are 14" already, I guess I'd stick with them.

At worst I buy a new axle hub combo and match the bolt pattern somehow to the existing wheels. I'm nearly ready to pull trigger.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 10:36 AM   #1005
pentaflex
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I thought it was kinda interesting too. I could flip the axle to sit as a spring under configuration, giving more underneath room I think. Would that work? I would use old springs (for now) and mount them with the shackles pointing the right way. As it has three wheels that are 14" already, I guess I'd stick with them.

At worst I buy a new axle hub combo and match the bolt pattern somehow to the existing wheels. I'm nearly ready to pull trigger.
Just from the pics, it looks like you could probably flip the axle. Depending on the springs and what you do with the shackles there may not be a lot of clearance between the axle and the frame when the springs compress. Hard to tell until you start working on it. Even if you end up replacing the axle, springs, and hubs it seems like you'd still have a nice little trailer for not too much $$$.
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