Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - Page 63 - JeepForum.com

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post #931 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 08:25 PM
strvger01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuskid View Post
So, if the 3 axis is better than pintle/lunette why would you go w/ that which isn't as good?

Not trying to be contrary, only wondering why not go w/ the best option?

Thanks,

John

well, for me, the weight ratings are right on the pintle and the eye. not that i'll ever exceed the 5-10 ton ratings with my little 1966 cj5a, it is still nice to know their rated capacity from the manufacturer. also, both the pintle and the eye make nice recovery points.
guess i'm just not sure how my insurance company would view the homemade 3 axis hitch in the event of an accident.


1966 CJ5A, mods are coming
1966 Wagoneer, bone stock
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post #932 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 08:50 PM
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuddin View Post
I modified my trailer by reversing the axle so it sits a little more forward. Then took two six foot angle irons and ran them the length of the trailer. Then mounted the tongue to the front frame rail and angle irons. Then used Jscherb's idea on the harbor frieght at rack sideways for a cooler rack. The decking for my trailer is trex decking to avoid painting and maintenance. Cheers.
What did that trex decking run you? The prices at my lowes were 4-5 times the price of pressure treated lumber.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuskid View Post
So, if the 3 axis is better than pintle/lunette why would you go w/ that which isn't as good?

Not trying to be contrary, only wondering why not go w/ the best option?

Thanks,

John
Cost, ease of hooking up, and im not gonna pull my trailer on any terrain that would need that much articulation. Plus you can get a pintle hitch that has a 2" ball built in, so I'd have just only one hitch for all my trailer needs as opposed to multiple ones.

-ReD
Fire Lieutenant/Paramedic
San Antonio, Tx
'90 Yj 4.2L 5spd
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post #933 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 08:55 PM
pentaflex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuddin View Post
I modified my trailer by reversing the axle so it sits a little more forward. Then took two six foot angle irons and ran them the length of the trailer. Then mounted the tongue to the front frame rail and angle irons. Then used Jscherb's idea on the harbor frieght at rack sideways for a cooler rack. The decking for my trailer is trex decking to avoid painting and maintenance. Cheers.
Looks great! Have you had a chance to load it up yet? How does it tow?
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post #934 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 08:56 PM
smuddin
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The trex decking ran about sixty at lowes. The price was substantially higher for all the other colors however, so they may have been discontinuing that color.
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post #935 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 09:00 PM
smuddin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex
Looks great! Have you had a chance to load it up yet? How does it tow?
We took it to grand lake for Labor Day weekend and it towed smooth. It was very nice to have all the camping gear not piled on the kids and roof of my wife's Cherokee.
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post #936 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
I've been considering something similar, but would likely need to lengthen the tongue quite a lot. As I recall, it extends only about 29" from the front of the trailer box. The rear of the Jeep tub to the ball is probably another 14" or so. With the Jeep's swing gate at around 40", it just barely clears the trailer when opened.

I do intend to lengthen the tongue when I change it to a receiver tube, but I'm not sure I want to extend it 16" or more, which may be about what it takes to have a cooler there. How long is the tongue on your "black" trailer?
As I recall, the tongue on my black trailer is 10" longer than the one on the red trailer (factory length with factory ball coupler). From the front of the trailer box to the center of the lunette ring on my trailer is 44". From the front of the trailer box to the center of the ammo can (where the two pieces of angle that form a "V" meet) is 19" and the tray I plan on putting on mine is 20". So depending on the size of the cooler I may or may not be able to open my tailgate (if I remember right it swings over the ammo can).
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post #937 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReDinTX View Post
the "twisting" angle is better for lack of a better word. IMHO unless youre going for some very serious off roading with massive articulation, the pintle and lunette ring will work just fine. thats the route im planning on going as well.

in one of the trailer threads im following someone did a little write up and measured the angles of articulation for all 3 hitch types. Wasnt that big of a difference between the 3-axis and pintle, but HUGE between regular ball and the other 2, obviously.
I took some measurements a while back and posted it, but here's what I found:

Just for fun, I took the lunette ring out and put it in the pintle hitch, and along with my Harbor Freight magnetic angle finder thingy I went and got some measurements.

Side-to-side flexibility (twist): 28-30 degrees
Up-and-down flexibility: 90 degrees (180 degrees total).
Swing left to right: 180 degrees

So if I'm going up-and-down hills or on twisty trails I really don't have to worry about damaging the hitch.

Then I went and got the 1 7/8" ball coupler, slid the ball hitch mount into the receiver and attached the ball coupler, and took measurements.

Side-to-side (twist): 18-20 degrees
Downward motion: 10 degrees (not much at all)
Upward motion: 15 degrees (again, not much)
Swing left to right: 180 degrees

So while it's fine for pavement, off-road your trailer has limited flexibility if you've only got a ball coupler. If you go past your limits something's got to give (and it might turn out ugly).

Original post:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post13293141

So bottom line, a regular ball coupler has the same swing left-to-right range of motion as a lunette ring or Multi Axis hitch (which is fine on pavement), but it sucks after that. The ball coupler has very limited up-and-down range of motion compared to a lunette ring or Multi Axis hitch so if you're going up-and-down hills you risk damage to your ball coupler. And for twisty stuff the lunette ring gives you better range of motion than a ball coupler, with a Multi Axis hitch having unlimited twisting capability.

I personally like the simplicity of the pintle hitch/lunette ring set-up. It's so easy to connect and disconnect, especially on trips when you're disconnecting every night when you get to camp and hooking back up in the morning. This should get you going in the right direction for rounding up parts:

http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...y/TR63045.html

http://accessories.etrailer.com/search?w=pintle%20hitch
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pintle hitch set-up.jpg   Lunette Ring.jpg   angle finder.jpg  
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post #938 of 2802 Old 10-07-2013, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuddin View Post
I modified my trailer by reversing the axle so it sits a little more forward. Then took two six foot angle irons and ran them the length of the trailer. Then mounted the tongue to the front frame rail and angle irons. Then used Jscherb's idea on the harbor frieght at rack sideways for a cooler rack. The decking for my trailer is trex decking to avoid painting and maintenance. Cheers.
Very nicely done. And nice job of extending the tongue utilizing the factory parts and minimal additional parts (just using some pieces of angle iron). I like how it allows you to mount the carrier rack up front - it ties everything in nicely. It's actually brilliant what you've done the more I think about how you extended your trailer's tongue. Definitely follows along with the theme of keeping it simple and no welding! And you could probably sandwich in a 2" receiver tube in the rear since your angle iron pieces go all the way to the back.

Thanks for the idea! I just might incorporate it into my trailer.
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post #939 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 12:44 AM
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
I took some measurements a while back and posted it, but here's what I found:

Just for fun, I took the lunette ring out and put it in the pintle hitch, and along with my Harbor Freight magnetic angle finder thingy I went and got some measurements.

Side-to-side flexibility (twist): 28-30 degrees
Up-and-down flexibility: 90 degrees (180 degrees total).
Swing left to right: 180 degrees

So if I'm going up-and-down hills or on twisty trails I really don't have to worry about damaging the hitch.

Then I went and got the 1 7/8" ball coupler, slid the ball hitch mount into the receiver and attached the ball coupler, and took measurements.

Side-to-side (twist): 18-20 degrees
Downward motion: 10 degrees (not much at all)
Upward motion: 15 degrees (again, not much)
Swing left to right: 180 degrees

So while it's fine for pavement, off-road your trailer has limited flexibility if you've only got a ball coupler.

Original post:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post13293141

So bottom line, a regular ball coupler has the same swing left-to-right range of motion as a lunette ring or Multi Axis hitch (which is fine on pavement), but it sucks after that. The ball coupler has very limited up-and-down range of motion compared to a lunette ring or Multi Axis hitch so if you're going up-and-down hills you risk damage to your ball coupler. And for twisty stuff the lunette ring gives you better range of motion than a ball coupler, with a Multi Axis hitch having unlimited twisting capability.

I personally like the simplicity of the pintle hitch/lunette ring set-up. This should get you going in the right direction:

http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...y/TR63045.html

http://accessories.etrailer.com/search?w=pintle%20hitch


https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cou...tch/63022.html

Best of both worlds. Fab up a mount with another washer or two, and its already pre drilled and comes with castle nut and roll pin! although id use cotter pin. This would give you the 180* in all directions as a 3 axis with the simplicity and cost of lunette!

-ReD
Fire Lieutenant/Paramedic
San Antonio, Tx
'90 Yj 4.2L 5spd
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post #940 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReDinTX View Post
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cou...tch/63022.html

Best of both worlds. Fab up a mount with another washer or two, and its already pre drilled and comes with castle nut and roll pin! although id use cotter pin. This would give you the 180* in all directions as a 3 axis with the simplicity and cost of lunette!
Would you believe I had that EXACT screen page up a little while ago? I was trying to figure a way to mount it inside a 2" square tube (outside measurements) so I could slide it into my receiver tube. I think the nut is too large though, but I'm still thinking.

The inside diameter is the same as my receiver mounted lunette ring (2.5") so that's not an issue.

The rotating military lunette rings had a large surface to spread the load, and had a spring on the back to provide tension.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech...-pictures.html
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post #941 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 01:26 AM
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Would you believe I had that EXACT screen page up a little while ago? I was trying to figure a way to mount it inside a 2" square tube (outside measurements) so I could slide it into my receiver tube. I think the nut is too large though, but I'm still thinking.
We're thinking of the same thing too!
here's what I came up with:
Get a piece of square tube thats a little long, then weld a piece of 1-1/2" ID DOM (might need a spacer under it) to the top of the tube. Then just put the threaded stud through the DOM and slap your nut in there. You could adjust ride height of trailer tongue by 2" just by flipping the square tube 180*. Youd also have easy visibility of the castle nut at all times.

Looking at metalsdepot.com though, 1.5" ID DOM with .500" wall (2-1/2" OD), $64.08/ft!

1-1/2" SCH80 pipe is $8.76/ft, .200" wall......that would be plenty strong for the tongue weight of these trailers!

hrmmm

-ReD
Fire Lieutenant/Paramedic
San Antonio, Tx
'90 Yj 4.2L 5spd
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post #942 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReDinTX View Post
We're thinking of the same thing too!
here's what I came up with:
Get a piece of square tube thats a little long, then weld a piece of 1-1/2" ID DOM (might need a spacer under it) to the top of the tube. Then just put the threaded stud through the DOM and slap your nut in there. You could adjust ride height of trailer tongue by 2" just by flipping the square tube 180*. Youd also have easy visibility of the castle nut at all times.

Looking at metalsdepot.com though, 1.5" ID DOM with .500" wall (2-1/2" OD), $64.08/ft!

1-1/2" SCH80 pipe is $8.76/ft, .200" wall......that would be plenty strong for the tongue weight of these trailers!

hrmmm
Yeah, that's what I was thinking - mounting something on top of the tubing that slides into the receiver instead of inside it. I like the idea of the metalsdepot DOM piece of tubing - we'd only need about a 2" long piece.
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post #943 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 01:58 AM
ReDinTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN
Yeah, that's what I was thinking - mounting something on top of the tubing that slides into the receiver instead of inside it. I like the idea of the metalsdepot DOM piece of tubing - we'd only need about a 2" long piece.
Could prolly get that as scrap from a local machine shop for next to nothing

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-ReD
Fire Lieutenant/Paramedic
San Antonio, Tx
'90 Yj 4.2L 5spd
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post #944 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 05:48 AM
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Just found this thread.

Good stuff here.
Lots of ideas for me to incorporate IF I ever get my Jeep running in a dependable manner... lol
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post #945 of 2802 Old 10-08-2013, 07:22 AM
JKBender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReDinTX View Post
We're thinking of the same thing too!
here's what I came up with:
Get a piece of square tube thats a little long, then weld a piece of 1-1/2" ID DOM (might need a spacer under it) to the top of the tube. Then just put the threaded stud through the DOM and slap your nut in there. You could adjust ride height of trailer tongue by 2" just by flipping the square tube 180*. Youd also have easy visibility of the castle nut at all times.

Looking at metalsdepot.com though, 1.5" ID DOM with .500" wall (2-1/2" OD), $64.08/ft!

1-1/2" SCH80 pipe is $8.76/ft, .200" wall......that would be plenty strong for the tongue weight of these trailers!

hrmmm
I would also run some strap steel along the sides to help strengthen the weld joint between the round and square tubes.
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