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Unread 09-06-2013, 10:43 AM   #871
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"These new fenders also have two holes pre-drilled on top (I guess for some type of factory mounting bracket). No big deal; maybe I'll find a use for them." ArmyRN

Hey Army, I've got it. You could mount 2 more ammo cans (maybe the big ones) and use them for other stuff you need to stay dry. Just a thought.

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Unread 09-06-2013, 10:55 AM   #872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSC View Post
Sorry Bobdog I took so long to respond, But I was out again and Hats off to Army for this thread I've had a great Summer camping I can't wait for Deer Season.

Here is the trailer when I just mounted the rack to the trailer, it's just bolted to the top.
Thanks for the pics. I like the rack and think I'll go buy it today. I was thinking I would weld it on, have second thoughts about that. If I bolt it on I can remove it if necessary. If I weld it on, it is ON there for good. Great place for a cooler or 2 as well. Thanks again.
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Unread 09-06-2013, 10:59 AM   #873
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I have a request. I have two gas military style gas can carriers on the back of my trailer. They are solidly welded to the frame, but the cans fell off on the maiden, off-road voyage. So, can you all tell me (and show me in pictures if you have them) how you hold your gas cans on?

Thanks.
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Unread 09-06-2013, 11:23 AM   #874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdog View Post
I have a request. I have two gas military style gas can carriers on the back of my trailer. They are solidly welded to the frame, but the cans fell off on the maiden, off-road voyage. So, can you all tell me (and show me in pictures if you have them) how you hold your gas cans on?

Thanks.
Are you saying the carriers stayed welded on but the cans fell off the carriers?

If so, I suggest metal straps like these:



The strap on the left is a commercial strap, they're available a bunch of places. In the center and right, I've replaced the non-adjustable latch with an adjustable one, so I can snug the cans down better. The latches are just pop-riveted on to the straps, so it's an easy conversion. There are locking and non-locking version of the new latches, I've got locking latches (right photo shows a lock in place)

I run these straps like this both on my trailer and and on my Jeep. No movement or rattle from the cans.

For my military trailer, I made up a custom set of straps to a similar design because they commercial ones would have been hard to unlatch due to the storage box in front of the cans:



On my Jeep:

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Unread 09-06-2013, 09:23 PM   #875
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I like both the adjustable locking AND the military custom. What did you use for the military custom metal strap? 1.5" then bent? and where did you buy the adjustable straps? Thanks for the write up. Oh and BTW nice Safari HEEP...

Edit: Yes I meant to say that the carriers were left attached while the cans fell off. Funny thing is, is they stayed attached over 250 miles of paved road and 26 miles of bad dirt road and fell off right outside my cabin. Weird.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 01:54 AM   #876
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I didn't know that Mrs. amryRN was a fender model. Nice! (will all due respect) OK, I think I'll order a pair.
Yup; something else to look forward to when I get home.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 04:16 AM   #877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdog View Post
I like both the adjustable locking AND the military custom. What did you use for the military custom metal strap? 1.5" then bent? and where did you buy the adjustable straps? Thanks for the write up. Oh and BTW nice Safari HEEP...
Here's one source: http://www.amazon.com/Jerry-Mounting.../dp/B00BF0AS60, but you can find them for much less if you search around, I think I've paid $16 for two.

For the custom ones I used 14-gauge galvanized sheet metal, cut into a strip 1.25" wide and bent the strips to shape. I pop-riveted the latches to them, and then sheathed them in large heat-shrink tubing so they don't scratch the cans. I mounted footman loops to the bottom of the carriers to hook them to. The commercial ones hook to the strap slots in the front/back of the carriers, but the custom ones hook on the sides where there are no strap slots so I added the footman loops with pop-rivets.

Thanks for the comment about the Jeep .
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Unread 09-07-2013, 04:21 PM   #878
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Epic Repair

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Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
Epic Fail!
Ok, maybe not epic. But it could have been. It was a nasty failure none the less. Last week my little Harbor Freight-based mini expedition trailer failed me. Before I get in to the details, a little background.

[...]
Finally got the trailer frame repaired after it failed earlier. I went with the simplest design, but I'm sure it will be more than strong enough.

[Edit: The "Epic Fail" post is #756.]

I bought two 6-foot lengths of 2" angle steel (~ $25 each at the Depot). Then, cut each into a 40" and a 32" piece. I bolted the 40" pieces against the existing front and middle cross members. They also bolt to the side rails. The 32" pieces form an 'A' frame bracing the tongue.

For $50 and a couple rattle cans I think it will be fine now. You can't tell from the pics below because it's painted, but the 2" angle steel is a lot more sturdy than the original cross members. And with the new steel sandwiched against the existing frame, the tongue has much stronger points to bolt to. The 'A' frame provides much needed bracing against lateral force.

[Edit: New cross member parts from Harbor Freight are $16 ea. plus shipping. I elected not to replace mine.]
img_0357.jpg

img_0358.jpg

img_0359.jpg

img_0361.jpg

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Unread 09-07-2013, 05:30 PM   #879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdog View Post
I have a request. I have two gas military style gas can carriers on the back of my trailer. They are solidly welded to the frame, but the cans fell off on the maiden, off-road voyage. So, can you all tell me (and show me in pictures if you have them) how you hold your gas cans on?

Thanks.
Smittybilt


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Unread 09-07-2013, 07:42 PM   #880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSC

Smittybilt
Looks good! I have one of those in the garage. I think I got it on Amazon for about 25? Love all these ideas!

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Unread 09-07-2013, 07:58 PM   #881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN
These new fenders also have two holes pre-drilled on top (I guess for some type of factory mounting bracket). No big deal; maybe I'll find a use for them.
The two holes are for the HF red trailer mounting brackets.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 08:48 PM   #882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
Finally got the trailer frame repaired after it failed earlier. I went with the simplest design, but I'm sure it will be more than strong enough.

I bought two 6-foot lengths of 2" angle steel (~ $25 each at the Depot). Then, cut each into a 40" and a 32" piece. I bolted the 40" pieces against the existing front and middle cross members. They also bolt to the side rails. The 32" pieces form an 'A' frame bracing the tongue.

For $50 and a couple rattle cans I think it will be fine now. You can't tell from the pics below because it's painted, but the 2" angle steel is a lot more sturdy than the original cross members. And with the new steel sandwiched against the existing frame, the tongue has much stronger points to bolt to. The 'A' frame provides much needed bracing against lateral force.

[Edit: New cross member parts from Harbor Freight are $16 ea. plus shipping. I elected not to replace mine.]
Looks awesome! I think I'll do the same thing with my cross-members.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 10:58 PM   #883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
Are you saying the carriers stayed welded on but the cans fell off the carriers?

If so, I suggest metal straps like these:



In the center and right, I've replaced the non-adjustable latch with an adjustable one, so I can snug the cans down better.
I'm curious where you bought the adjustable latches? I found I had used the regular straps/latches and could just follow your suggestion and be good to go.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 10:59 PM   #884
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Smittybilt
Works great. Did you weld on the support brackets underneath?
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Unread 09-09-2013, 05:30 AM   #885
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Quote:
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I'm curious where you bought the adjustable latches? I found I had used the regular straps/latches and could just follow your suggestion and be good to go.
I picked up my latches on eBay for $4.00 each. The ones I found didn't have a provision for a padlock, so I had to add that myself. They're still available, and they're great if you don't want to make the straps lockable (or can add a provision for the padlock yourself: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161006932144...84.m1497.l2649



McMaster-Carr has similar latches that include the padlock loop, their #13435a31 or #13435a32 would work well in this application: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/2927/=ofisp4
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