Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - Page 55 - JeepForum.com

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post #811 of 2990 Old 08-26-2013, 09:13 AM
Sahara707
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fender offset brackets?

Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Maybe something like one of these for you trailer Sahara707?

1. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...OME-_-Trailers + Trailer Parts>Trailer Fenders-_-12693

2. http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Gal...nch_p_368.html

How wide do you need/want the fenders?
l Like the 10x29x10. another 100.00? Where did you get those fender offset brackets? Thanks.

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post #812 of 2990 Old 08-26-2013, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
l Like the 10x29x10. another 100.00? Where did you get those fender offset brackets? Thanks.
I got the brackets at a hardware store; they were a couple of dollars each - click the link below. They just needed a little massaging with a hammer, and a couple holes drilled before painting. I don't remember what they were originally made for; I was just looking for something I could use to raise my fenders and move them out a bit (while cruising the isles at Home Depot and Lowes), and when I saw these it was like "BINGO". I don't remember where I bought them, but I remember seeing them again at Ace Hardware. Places like the Tractor Supply Company also has a nice assortment of "pieces of metal" brackets and such that can be made to work.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post11218932

Yeah; those 10x29x10" fenders look like they would do well on your trailer; the 205/75/15" tires are 27.something inches tall/across, and with these fenders being only 10" tall they shouldn't cause any clearance issues with your tail lights. But I'm going the minimalist approach with my fenders; hence the red trailer fender option (plus I want nothing to interfere with my little gas cans mounted on the sides, but want fenders just a little larger). But I've run my factory fenders for years; if you wanted to you could just move yours straight up and out a bit with the same or a similar bracket, drill a few holes like I did in your metal panels, bolt it up and call it a day. I've never had anybody (like law enforcement) tell me they were too small or illegal.

I only put the tabs on the top of my fenders because of the gap between the slats interfering with where I wanted to put the long bolts - you wouldn't have that issue. Hopefully with these redtrailer fenders being taller I can mount them using the same top two bolts without having to use the tabs (and just drill holes in the flanges).

(looking at the bottom picture) If I can get a cooler to fit between the ammo can on the tongue and the trailer box, I'll move the spare to the back of the trailer, and see about replacing the 1.5 gallon gas jugs on the sides with some 2.5 gallon (10 liter) jerry cans.

http://deutscheoptik.com/Junior-10-Liter-Jerry-Can.html
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Fender bracket new.jpg   Jeep and trailer in Dawson.jpg  
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post #813 of 2990 Old 08-26-2013, 05:49 PM
NMBruce
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just found this, a friend uses it
https://locknroll.com/shop-now/

sorry if it has been posted before

I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
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post #814 of 2990 Old 08-26-2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coops2k
just found this, a friend uses it
https://locknroll.com/shop-now/

sorry if it has been posted before
Kicks A$$. Thanks! I haven't seen it. "LOCK N ROLL" baby!

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post #815 of 2990 Old 08-26-2013, 07:41 PM
Sahara707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN

I got the brackets at a hardware store; they were a couple of dollars each - click the link below. They just needed a little massaging with a hammer, and a couple holes drilled before painting. I don't remember what they were originally made for; I was just looking for something I could use to raise my fenders and move them out a bit (while cruising the isles at Home Depot and Lowes), and when I saw these it was like "BINGO". I don't remember where I bought them, but I remember seeing them again at Ace Hardware. Places like the Tractor Supply Company also has a nice assortment of "pieces of metal" brackets and such that can be made to work.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post11218932

Yeah; those 10x29x10" fenders look like they would do well on your trailer; the 205/75/15" tires are 27.something inches tall/across, and with these fenders being only 10" tall they shouldn't cause any clearance issues with your tail lights. But I'm going the minimalist approach with my fenders; hence the red trailer fender option (plus I want nothing to interfere with my little gas cans mounted on the sides, but want fenders just a little larger). But I've run my factory fenders for years; if you wanted to you could just move yours straight up and out a bit with the same or a similar bracket, drill a few holes like I did in your metal panels, bolt it up and call it a day. I've never had anybody (like law enforcement) tell me they were too small or illegal.

I only put the tabs on the top of my fenders because of the gap between the slats interfering with where I wanted to put the long bolts - you wouldn't have that issue. Hopefully with these redtrailer fenders being taller I can mount them using the same top two bolts without having to use the tabs (and just drill holes in the flanges).

(looking at the bottom picture) If I can get a cooler to fit between the ammo can on the tongue and the trailer box, I'll move the spare to the back of the trailer, and see about replacing the 1.5 gallon gas jugs on the sides with some 2.5 gallon (10 liter) jerry cans.

http://deutscheoptik.com/Junior-10-Liter-Jerry-Can.html
I found these brackets and I think they'll work for now. Did you order those bigger red trailer fenders with the 20" mounting centers? I'd like to get the exact dimensions before I buy them. A little bigger fender would work better.

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post #816 of 2990 Old 08-26-2013, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
I found these brackets and I think they'll work for now. Did you order those bigger red trailer fenders with the 20" mounting centers? I'd like to get the exact dimensions before I buy them. A little bigger fender would work better.

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Ok; I just ordered them. Of course I'll still be in Afghanistan when they show up at the house; I'll have to get my wife to measure them.
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post #817 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 12:01 PM
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HAHA LOL. I'll be watching.

Last edited by Sahara707; 08-27-2013 at 04:06 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #818 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coops2k View Post
just found this, a friend uses it
https://locknroll.com/shop-now/

sorry if it has been posted before
This is another off-road hitch...

http://ozhitch.com/hitch-shop/
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post #819 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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And here's another multi-axis hitch: The Max Coupler. I almost went this route before going with the pintle hitch set-up.

http://www.kilbystore.com/maxcoupler.html

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/12.../photo-06.html

http://www.sierra4x4trailers.com/s4x4t-max-coupler/

I did a good bit of research on this before taking my Jeep and trailer to Alaska. The first hitch I found was the lock-n-roll. But if you do a good google search on it, you'll find a lot of folks have gone away from it. Seems like the main problem was in backing up with them off-road (they bend and get distorted). Now it might not be a problem with our lighter-weight trailers (the folks having problems were pulling heavy duty off-road trailers), but still people were going away from them and going to the max-coupler. And I can't find out how much they're going for (damn government computer site-blockers) to compare them to the max-coupler.

So from the lock-n-roll I looked at the max-coupler. They've got a "new and improved" model out, and this was the hitch most were recommending. The only issue I found in my research was you had to have the trailer and tow vehicle lined up just right to get everything connected. If you're connecting everything and leaving it connected your whole trip then it's not an issues. If you're doing a lot of connecting and disconnecting it's still just a minor issue, but it was brought up. The company was going to give me a military discount which would have brought the price to around $200. I was almost ready to pull the trigger. But it was still $200.

The Oz Hitch ain't cheap, and I don't even know if they sell it here in the states (they're in Australia). So I didn't really do that much research on it. But hey; if you want to be different... go for it and let us know how it works out.

And jscherb has posted elsewhere a "build it yourself" multi-axis hitch from parts gathered at TSC. The parts come in under $100, and if you can do some welding and grinding and fabricating you've got yourself a nice little multi-axis hitch. Too bad I don't own a welder.

I already had the pintle hitch and the 2" receiver mount thing. I already had the 2" receiver thing made and mounted on the trailer tongue (which you would need anyway for either the lock-n-roll or the max-coupler). So I went the cheap(er) route and bought a lunette ring ($20-something) that slid into the trailer's 2" receiver and called it done. I've been very happy with it, and connecting and disconnecting is easy - you just have to get it close and then close the pintle hitch jaws on the lunette ring. Pintle hitches run around $50 or so, and you'll have to google 2" receiver/pintle hitch adapter mounts (they're easy to find - lots of options especially for adjusting for trailer tongue height). They also sell pintle hitches that are a one-piece that are built for a 2" receiver.

http://accessories.etrailer.com/sear...0mount%20plate

http://www.easternmarine.com/Pintle-Hooks-Mounts-Rings/

http://www.easternmarine.com/5-ton-r...ntle-hook-rm5p

Just tossing other options out there.
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post #820 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 10:16 PM
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We were talking about Kilby hitches today when I picked up my TJ. We thought they went out of business? Guess not.

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post #821 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ok; say you like the idea of a pintle hitch, but you want something that will rotate 360. Here you go: A Dixon-Bates NRC2051 NATO hitch. It's a British hitch used on Land Rovers (and some of their other military vehicles). It's got a locking pin so it functions as a regular pintle hitch, or you can pull the pin and it'll rotate 360 degrees. It'll also mount flush. I don't know if the bolt pattern is the same as the ones sold in the states or not. But one of these days I'm gittin me one of these. It isn't the cheapest route, but I just like the military look of the pintle hitches, and the ease of connecting/disconnecting.

Google "NRC2051" or "Nato Hitch" and you'll get a lot of hits. Here's one place that sells them:

http://www.paddockspares.com/nrc2051...tow-hitch.html

Again; just tossing options out there. The regular ball mount is fine for pavement use; I just don't feel comfortable doing any type of serious off-roading pulling a trailer using a ball hitch. It severely limits your range-of-motion - and something will have to give.
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post #822 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 10:34 PM
NMBruce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
And here's another multi-axis hitch: The Max Coupler. I almost went this route before going with the pintle hitch set-up.

http://www.kilbystore.com/maxcoupler.html

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/12.../photo-06.html

http://www.sierra4x4trailers.com/s4x4t-max-coupler/

I did a good bit of research on this before taking my Jeep and trailer to Alaska. The first hitch I found was the lock-n-roll. But if you do a good google search on it, you'll find a lot of folks have gone away from it. Seems like the main problem was in backing up with them off-road (they bend and get distorted). Now it might not be a problem with our lighter-weight trailers (the folks having problems were pulling heavy duty off-road trailers), but still people were going away from them and going to the max-coupler. And I can't find out how much they're going for (damn government computer site-blockers) to compare them to the max-coupler.

So from the lock-n-roll I looked at the max-coupler. They've got a "new and improved" model out, and this was the hitch most were recommending. The only issue I found in my research was you had to have the trailer and tow vehicle lined up just right to get everything connected. If you're connecting everything and leaving it connected your whole trip then it's not an issues. If you're doing a lot of connecting and disconnecting it's still just a minor issue, but it was brought up. The company was going to give me a military discount which would have brought the price to around $200. I was almost ready to pull the trigger. But it was still $200.

The Oz Hitch ain't cheap, and I don't even know if they sell it here in the states (they're in Australia). So I didn't really do that much research on it. But hey; if you want to be different... go for it and let us know how it works out.

And jscherb has posted elsewhere a "build it yourself" multi-axis hitch from parts gathered at TSC. The parts come in under $100, and if you can do some welding and grinding and fabricating you've got yourself a nice little multi-axis hitch. Too bad I don't own a welder.

I already had the pintle hitch and the 2" receiver mount thing. I already had the 2" receiver thing made and mounted on the trailer tongue (which you would need anyway for either the lock-n-roll or the max-coupler). So I went the cheap(er) route and bought a lunette ring ($20-something) that slid into the trailer's 2" receiver and called it done. I've been very happy with it, and connecting and disconnecting is easy - you just have to get it close and then close the pintle hitch jaws on the lunette ring. Pintle hitches run around $50 or so, and you'll have to google 2" receiver/pintle hitch adapter mounts (they're easy to find - lots of options).

Just tossing other options out there.
i like this the best still, but would like a way to lock it.

I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
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post #823 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
We were talking about Kilby hitches today when I picked up my TJ. We thought they went out of business? Guess not.

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That I don't know. It was a couple years ago when I was talking to them. But I was able to find them doing a quick google search.
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post #824 of 2990 Old 08-27-2013, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN

That I don't know. It was a couple years ago when I was talking to them. But I was able to find them doing a quick google search.
I like that one and the price is ok. I'm going to go with a 25.00 drop receiver and ball for now. Between the new trailer and getting my TJ out of the shop today 2K +, I'm running out of fun money. I think you can relate.

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post #825 of 2990 Old 08-28-2013, 06:30 AM
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Another option is the under $50 DIY "TSC" 2-axis coupler: http://tventuring.com/trailerforum/thread-65.html




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