Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - Page 47 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > General Jeep & Off-Road Equipment > Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineFS: Wrangler RGB Multicolor Fog Light LEDs: Awesome EffectSavvy Aluminum Gas Tank Skid

Reply
Unread 07-19-2013, 03:25 PM   #691
pentaflex
Member
 
pentaflex's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdog View Post
I also did, but didn't know of the instructions when I did it. I just welded a new metal 2 x 3 from tail to a tip I extended out. I can't recall how far I ended up extending it, but I wanted less sway and more room. It's somewhere in the early pages of my microtrailer build. (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/)

If there's better instructions than what i did I would use them. I was just farting around; trying to get a stable frame, some extra room and a receiver mount at the back.
The nice thing about your design is you have one solid steel tube the entire length, from front hitch to back. You could easily tow a second second trailer (though not sure why you would) or help another Jeep get unstuck without unhitching your trailer.

pentaflex is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 05:23 PM   #692
NMBruce
Member
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: , SW Colorado
Posts: 308
Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
About the only negatives I can think of off the top of my head are:

1. Somebody screwing with it trying to get into it (two or four legged critters).

2. It being so heavy it's too much weight on the tongue (possibly bending the tongue if you're using the factory tongue metal piece - although this one is a stretch).

3. Depending on how long your trailer's tongue is, you might not be able to swing your tailgate open all the way with the cooler up front.

4. It'll get dirty at least on the outside of the cooler. But those Yeti coolers are very high quality; it should stay clean on the inside.

Most of these you can address when building your trailer.

But mounting it outside, the two big advantages (that I think outweigh the negatives) are:

1. Easy access to your cooler anytime you want without having to open your trailer, move the stuff off the top of it to get into it, etc.

2. Frees up that much more space inside your trailer for other stuff (#1!).

The cooler was about the largest thing inside my trailer on my Alaska trip (along with my red and black oven stove combo pictured above with tent picture). And it was packed in there with stuff on top of it, etc. It just wasn't readily accessible. It's one of the lessons I learned taking the trailer on our trip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
The Yeti coolers are bear proof, so I see no reason not to have it outside. Just make sure it's secured against theft. Since it will be heavy, I wouldn't put it outside the back or inside behind the tailgate. If your other gear is light -- sleeping bag, tent, etc. -- having a big weight behind the axle will cause towing problems.

I will likely move mine to the tongue at some point, but it will be very close whether the Jeep's swing gate will open. I may need to wait until I redo my hitch and make it just a couple inches longer. I'll also have to add some triangle braces since my trailer didn't come with them.
thanks guys

Because of the work "jscherb" did on the 48" x 96" HF trailer http://tventuring.com/trailerforum/t...post-2158.html cutting it down, I was thinking of cutting it down to 41" x 68" trailer bed, then building the box at 41" x 48" and having the front 20" for the Yeti cooler and a water can, then from the work "bobdog" did with the extend tongue and solid steel tube, I think this could work. Thinking that a 3' tongue which should let me 90deg the trail to the Jeep and open the tailgate, again like "bob dog", then I need a place to put straps and parts, maybe just a bag inside the box.

I am thinking my over all length will be around around 104", which is long but not that bad, since the 50" x 62" box trailer is 101" and the small HF is ???

After looking, Yeti sells a cable lock system for the cooler, so I would need to make sure there was a way to lock it to the frame and then maybe a tarp like cover to keep it a little cleaner.
__________________
I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
NMBruce is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 07:37 PM   #693
bobdog
Senior Member
 
bobdog's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 559
Quote:
Originally Posted by pentaflex View Post
The nice thing about your design is you have one solid steel tube the entire length, from front hitch to back. You could easily tow a second second trailer (though not sure why you would) or help another Jeep get unstuck without unhitching your trailer.
It has crossed my mind that I could get a hitch mount winch and if the Jeep got stuck in the front, I could use the winch on the back trailer hitch to pull the Jeep out....
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/


Black Jeep Society
New Mexico Jeep Club
Atheist Jeep Society
Micro-Trailer Club
bobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 07:43 PM   #694
bobdog
Senior Member
 
bobdog's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 559
Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Pentaflex - that is one awesome looking trailer picture you posted. It just screams "Adventure!".
X10
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/


Black Jeep Society
New Mexico Jeep Club
Atheist Jeep Society
Micro-Trailer Club
bobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 07:50 PM   #695
bobdog
Senior Member
 
bobdog's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 559
Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Check this link out; I think it's what you're looking for.

http://www.compactcampingconcepts.com/trailers.htm

Especially check out their "Explorer box X3", but check out all their links - it's a pretty awesome website for building a little trailer like you're describing.

And honestly, I don't get the facination with trailer top tents. You pay a lot of money for a fairly small tent. For a fraction of the price, you can get a much larger tent that takes up much less space when packed up, you can put a couple of cots inside so you're not sleeping on the floor, and you can leave the tent all set up and take the trailer with you. Tent pictured is a 10x13' tent I bought at Walmart for around $60 if I remember correctly, and a couple of oversized Army cots.

Whatever route you go, be sure and post some pictures!
Love the oven Army. Gotta get me one of them...
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/


Black Jeep Society
New Mexico Jeep Club
Atheist Jeep Society
Micro-Trailer Club
bobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 08:14 PM   #696
bobdog
Senior Member
 
bobdog's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 559
I just went through the Concept trailer site (or tent site) and I really liked some of the micro-trailers they displayed. Some were down right cool. At first I really liked one they were showing that had the front open to a galley. And then had side panels to other cavities in the "box". But, living in the SW my whole life, I learned a long time ago, that even if you think you've got it sealed (rubber gasket, silicone, etc) dirt will always find a way in. So I thought how do they keep the dirt out of everything with all those doors? I couldn't figure it out. To me they are very cool camping micro-trailers, but unfortunately wouldn't be useful for me as, like with ArmyRN's trip to Alaska, dirt roads are everywhere and dirt will find a way in to all your stuff. That's why putting anything outside the box for me, it has to be able to get mud, dirt, dust, grime, etc. all over it and still work after words. Also, why having more than a top door might not be practical for me. I would love to have a tail gate, but it would invite too much dirt into the innards of the box. Cool trailers though.
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/


Black Jeep Society
New Mexico Jeep Club
Atheist Jeep Society
Micro-Trailer Club
bobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 10:02 PM   #697
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Posts: 2,202
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdog View Post
Love the oven Army. Gotta get me one of them...
I loved having this oven with us on our Alaska/Canada trip. I could make muffins (the oven holds a standard size six-tub muffin pan), and a couple nights we made pizza. It is fairly bulky though.

That's one of the cool things about these little trailers - it allows you to bring cool stuff like propane stove/oven combos with you so you can do things like make muffins and pizza when camping. It's those little things that make a camping trip memorable.

Those are garlic cheddar cheese muffins I made in the picture to go with our dinner one night (probably chicken alfredo with noodles). They sell muffin mix packets at the grocery store that you just add a little milk or water and bake. And the packets are usually designed to make six muffins. Hint: bring cupcake papers with you - it makes clean up so much easier.
alaska-oven-picture.jpg  
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 10:08 PM   #698
saxart
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 217
ArmyRN-
Do you know what brand that oven is?

Neat stuff!
__________________
I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

'99 Wrangler Sport: 2.5" Old Man Emo lift and shocks, adjustable trackbars, Quick-Disko sway links, rollin on 31" BFG A/Ts
saxart is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-19-2013, 10:30 PM   #699
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Posts: 2,202
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxart View Post
ArmyRN-
Do you know what brand that oven is?

Neat stuff!
It's a Camp Chef Oven. I bought it at Sams (or Costco - they're the same to me) for about this same price as below. I also bought a black padded bag for it to go in that they sell that was around $40 if I remember right. I wouldn't want to be packing it in the trailer without some sort of protection (I was worried about the glass front and the knobs).

http://www.amazon.com/Camp-Chef-Camp.../dp/B0013LLSZG

http://www.completecampsite.com/camp...carry-bag.html

We were in Alaska and Canada for about three weeks with the TJ and trailer. I'm telling ya; having this little trailer and being able to carry the gear it did is what really made the trip enjoyable. Being able to sleep on cots instead of on the ground; having this little oven thing; having room for camping chairs, the cooler, cookware, plenty of food; additional fuel in case we needed it (never did); it's the little trailer that made it possible. Check this out - it's our Alaska/Canada trip thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f312/...nture-1371427/
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-22-2013, 08:09 PM   #700
Sahara707
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Petaluma, CA
Posts: 464
armyRN is it possible to replace the 12" 4 lug wheel with a 15" wheel? Still thinking of going with the deiequipment black trailer and black metal box. I was trying to avoid the axle swap. Trailer would be used for ice chest, tent, sleeping bags, etc.. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum
Sahara707 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-22-2013, 09:44 PM   #701
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Posts: 2,202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
armyRN is it possible to replace the 12" 4 lug wheel with a 15" wheel? Still thinking of going with the deiequipment black trailer and black metal box. I was trying to avoid the axle swap. Trailer would be used for ice chest, tent, sleeping bags, etc.. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum
I've been very happy with my black trailer. I'd like to see one done-up with their metal box - be sure and post pictures if you get one!

With the current 12" four lug wheel and tire, you've got about one and a fraction of an inch (MAYBE up to 2" max) clearance between the tire and the trailer frame.

They don't sell a 15" rim in a four - bolt pattern.

Yes it is possible to swap out the hub set for a 5 bolt pattern. However, it is NOT going to change the width of the axle. You'll still only have one and a fraction of an inch or so clearance even running just a 12" wheel and tire (but now a five lug wheel and not a four lug).

A 15" wheel and corresponding tire still will not work even if you swapped out the hubs for a five-bolt pattern; the tire will be pressed up against the side of the frame. You MIGHT be able to use a 175/80D/13" tire on a 13" four-lug rim using the factory axle (bring the trailer somewhere where they will let you test-fit). This is a pretty common trailer wheel and tire combo (I've even seen them at walmart in the tire section - they might have them with the four-bolt pattern). This size tire is also 4" taller than the 12" tire/rim combo that comes with the trailer, and would look better than the 12" wheel/tire that comes with the trailer. If you try this, let us know how it works (yes/no; how much clearance between the tire and frame if it does work, etc.). And of course, post a picture with this combo. Below is a picture of a 175/80D13" tire and wheel beside a 4.8x12" tire and wheel (the size that comes on both the red and black trailers with 12" rims). Both are shown on a 5 bolt pattern rim, but these sizes also come in a 4 bolt rim.

http://recstuff.com/13X4.5-4-4-White...ler-Wheel.aspx

Sorry it's not the answer you wanted to hear. Don't fear the axle swap; especially if you use the same one I used. It's a direct swap out using the factory square U-bolts and plate, it's wider and gives you the five-bolt pattern to mount a 15" tire and rim (205/75D/15" tire on a 15x5" trailer rim), and will have better quality bearings and an axle with a higher weight rating. Just swallow hard and spend the money on a better quality/wider axle and be done with it if you're set on a 15" tire/wheel combo. You're looking at around $120 -$150 or so before shipping (unless you can buy one locally).

This is the axle I used with my black trailer: http://www.easternmarine.com/loadrit...er-axle-609070 At $149, it works perfectly with the black trailer; bolted right up and allowed me to use a 205/75D/15" tire and 15x5" wheel combo. Ask Eastern Marine about free shipping with what minimal purchase. Shipping was $31 to TN for example.

Here's another axle option: A 2000lb axle (more than enough); you'll need to order it with a 38.5 spring center to spring center width, and if you want to go with a 205/75D/15" trailer tire and 15x5" rim you'll want it 52" hubface to hubface (you don't need it cambered). It's $112 (plus shipping - which at $153 looked crazy overly expensive on their website - more than the axle itself), and it comes with a 5 on 4.5" hubs. You'll need to order the U-bolt kit for like $6.00.

http://kmtparts.com/axles-spring-mou...55-4-drop.html

The axle from easternmarine costs a little more than the axle from kmtparts, but when looking at the shipping costs between the two, the axle from easternmarine would ultimately cost much less (at least to TN, which is what I was using as a baseline for shipping costs). Shop around; compare axle costs plus shipping, and then see what a local trailer place would charge you for an axle in your desired size. And don't forget to get a spare hub and bearing assembly while you're at it.
thirteen-inch-vs.-twelve-inch-tire.jpg  
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2013, 07:19 AM   #702
kjg26
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North of Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 1,815
You talk about having spare hubs. With the harbor freight 4 by 8 trailer what are our options for spare hubs? are they generic hubs? do I have to purchase through harbor Freight?
__________________
Black 1993 YJ 4.0, 5 Speed
Slowly but surely getting better and better. Trailer build soon!!
kjg26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2013, 09:30 AM   #703
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Posts: 2,202
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
You talk about having spare hubs. With the harbor freight 4 by 8 trailer what are our options for spare hubs? are they generic hubs? do I have to purchase through harbor Freight?
Good question.

You can try contacting Harbor Freight and giving them the trailer part number (I think the one you're looking at is 94564), and then the individual part number (they're in the owner's manual) and see about ordering hubs and bearings (bearings are more important than hubs). I've ordered parts before from Harbor Freight this way. The owner's manual is also on their website when you pull up the trailer.

Generally, trailer axle stubs for these little trailers are a 1" or a 1 1/16th inch diameter. But we're talking Harbor Freight. I think theirs are metric at 25mm diameter. It doesn't mean they're bad; it's just not a common part size. Part numbers should be stamped on the hub and especially the bearings.

Most towns have a good auto parts store/bearing store/farm equipment supply store that should be able to match up what you've got and get you what you need.

And just for fun I emailed them at parts@harborfreight.com to see what they could tell me for hubs and bearings. I'll let you know.
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2013, 10:32 AM   #704
jscherb
Web Wheeler
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 8,227
Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Good question.

You can try contacting Harbor Freight and giving them the trailer part number (I think the one you're looking at is 94564), and then the individual part number (they're in the owner's manual) and see about ordering hubs and bearings (bearings are more important than hubs). I've ordered parts before from Harbor Freight this way. The owner's manual is also on their website when you pull up the trailer.

Generally, trailer axle stubs for these little trailers are a 1" or a 1 1/16th inch diameter. But we're talking Harbor Freight. I think theirs are metric at 25mm diameter. It doesn't mean they're bad; it's just not a common part size. Part numbers should be stamped on the hub and especially the bearings.

Most towns have a good auto parts store/bearing store/farm equipment supply store that should be able to match up what you've got and get you what you need.

And just for fun I emailed them at parts@harborfreight.com to see what they could tell me for hubs and bearings. I'll let you know.
The Harbor Freight spindles and hub bearings are metric, the bearings are 30205 Taper Wheel Bearings, 25mm i.d. x 52mm o. d. x 16.25mm thick. Here's a link to replacement bearings on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/30205-Taper-Wh...keywords=30205

Many/maybe most 2000-lb. or less trailer axles have 1" spindles. I have a pair of spare Dexter 1250-lb. (each) hubs here, the bearings are 1" I.D. The spindles that came with the Dexter hubs measure 0.980 O.D.

The Harbor Freight spindle measures 0.979, which is only 0.001 less than the Dexter spindle. (25mm is 0.984 BTW). Because trailer bearings/spindles are designed for an easy slip fit, and because there's only one thousandth of an inch difference in the spindle diameters, hubs designed for 1" axles will fit very nicely on the Harbor Freight axles. In the photo below a Dexter hub with 1" I.D. bearings is on the HF axle; the HF hub in on the floor. It's a very good fit, if you didn't know the Dexter bearings were 1" and the HF axle was 25mm, you'd never be able to tell when you installed the Dexter hub on the HF axle.



1250-lb. hubs can be bought complete with bearings/seal/cap/lug nuts for around $35, here's one: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2391_200442391. I wouldn't hesitate to use one of those hubs on a Harbor Freight axle based on my fit test.

Swapping to the US-spec hubs has another benefit, it would get you 1/2x20 lugs, which are the same as the Wrangler. The HF hubs have 12.5mm lugs.

And another benefit would be that you'd be able to pick up replacement bearings for the US-spec hubs anywhere, the metric bearings can be harder to find (and the metric outside diameter of the bearing is important for fitting it into the hub, US-spec 1" I.D. trailer bearings won't fit properly in HF hubs.

BTW, the HF 4-on-4 hubs used on the lighter-duty trailers and the HF 4-on-5.5 hubs used on the 1720-lb. capacity trailer both have bearings with 25mm I.D. This means that the hubs I linked to above could be used to upgrade a 4-on-4 HF axle to a 4-on-5.5 (same as the TJ/YJ Wranglers). Be careful about larger tires though, because the lighter capacity HF frames have sheet metal u-channel axles, while the 1720-lb. capacity HF frame has a much stronger tube axle.

Edit: One more thing about putting US-spec hubs on the HF axles - the inner oil seals on the US hubs may not seal well enough on the HF axles, so you should check them when you're installing the hubs. Most US-spec 1" O.D. axle spindles have 1.25" O.D. sections for the oil seals, and the HF axles are 1.18" where the oil seals run (30mm), so the US-spec seals may or may seal well enough, depends on the particular seals.

Most U.S.-spec 1.25" I.D. trailer seals are 1.98" OD, which right about 50mm, so you might want to replace the US-spec oil seal with a 50mm O.D./30mm I/D. metric one for a better fit. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Spring-L...50+mm+oil+seal
__________________
.
"Whether you think you can do something or you think you can't, you are right" - Henry Ford

Visit my Jeep Projects site for info on my custom Jeep projects:
  • Retro Wrangler pickup
  • Gaucho CJ pickup
  • Safari Cab custom modular hardtop
  • Fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit
  • CJ Grille Conversion Kit for the TJ/LJ
  • Fiberglass Military Replica Trailer Kit
jscherb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-23-2013, 08:41 PM   #705
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Posts: 2,202
Well there you go; jscherb had the answers (why am I not surprised). Replacement bearings for $10.00 for the HF hubs, and complete hub sets for $35 (with US thread lug nuts included!). It's cheap insurance when you're taking your trailer off the beaten path.

If you're planning on swapping out the axle down the road, at least have spare set of (lubed and ready to go) bearings with you for your factory axle (ten bucks - maybe even cheaper from your local auto parts store) if you're taking your trailer out of town. And when you get your wider replacement axle, get a complete matching hub and bearing set (especially if they're only $35) and keep it with the trailer (lubed and ready to go). I bolted an ammo can to my trailer's tongue to keep these and a few other misc. spare trailer parts always with the trailer.

And most importantly, keep them well lubed!

Did I mention it's important to keep the bearings well lubed?

Thanks again Jeff for the info.
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.