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Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsNEW!! HMF 50"-52" light bar mounting brackets!! ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4w

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Unread 07-08-2013, 09:21 AM   #646
JKBender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix07013 View Post
....woh, that was a lot of reading...
Anyway, finally got through the whole thing, all 42 pages.

First of all thanks ArmyRN for starting this thread, and everyone else for that matter for sharing your ideas, and experiences.
I ended up buying the 1090 lb. red trailer using the 4th of July coupon.
Put it together without much issue, except for a few cuts thanks to tight spaces. Ordered some lumber that I'll be picking up Sunday, 3/4" plywood for the floor, tongue and groove boards, some water proofer, and stain; just to get a base since we're going camping Monday.
I'll use the 500 mile trip to see how it does.
When I come back, my to-do:
http://kmtparts.com/6000lb-torflex-a...-4-drop-4.html
54" hub face, I think if I go too much wider, it'll compromise the integrity of the axle, though I don't think I'll ever load 3500 lb. of anything in the trailer
38.5" spring centers
Probably removing the smallest leaf in the spring pack
When I do replace the axle, I'm probably going to take the trailer apart, scuff it, and bed line it.
Really like the idea of extending the tongue http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/
I'm thinking taller walls, piano hinge lid, and attachments for a battery, lights, folding table, and odd mounts for my hi-lift, and other such tools, and containers.
I really like the look on pentaflex's trailer, but I'll probably stick to the more civilized 205 75r15 tires for a while found some great deals as low as $80 for a wheel tire combo, and I'll mount my spare on the lid, or front of the trailer
For now I'm just using the stock tongue, and a 6" drop hitch to keep it semi level, since I'm at a 3.5" lift and 315 75r16 tires, down the road, I really like this coupler idea

I'm feeling a little scattered right now after reading all 42 pages of the thread, so I think it's best if I just get the basics going, and worry about the rest later.
I was second guessing myself when deciding which trailer to get, the one I got, or the bigger 1720 lb. guy, but considering I would have ended up cutting it, I'm pretty happy with the micro trailer especially considering I got it for $178 out the door with the coupon, as ridiculous as it looks behind my Jeep now, I just need to add some gear to give it some Jeep cred.

Just a couple questions for now, with the 3500 lb. axle, would there be any benefit of a larger hub bolt pattern beside preference? I don't think I'll ever use the tires I have on the Jeep, on the trailer, and I would think there is greater availability of wheels (5 on 4.5), and consequently tires.
Can I get away with the 2000 lb. axle. I think I read on one of the axle builder sites, that it's not recommended to go over a 16" overhang, but I doubt I'll ever have any more than 500 lb. in the trailer, or should I just play it safe with the extra $10 and get the 3500 lb. one?

And lastly, since it's such a lightweight trailer, and rarely loaded to the axle's limits, would I benefit in getting the axle cambered?

Thank you all in advance, and thanks again for all your posts, they've been extremely helpful
I am actually in the process of building the DIY 3-axis coupler. I have bought everything needed and just need to start fabricating. I honestly do not need this level of coupler for the type of trails that I will be hitting over the next year... but it looked like a fun project that gave me a reason to break out my welder! My goal is to build up my Jeep and the trailer to be able to run the Rubicon in 2015/2016 and this coupler will be needed for that trip.

If you end up building yours, please post any leanings and I will as well.

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Unread 07-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #647
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might be missing something here, so please correct me if I am wrong.

By adding in a 205/75/15, it will add about 4" to the overall width of the trailer
By getting this trailer (when they are back in stock) http://www.deiequipment.com/armor-re...ler-black.html
the overall width of the trailer is 62", so adding an new axle or wheel spacers to the axle will add 2" on each side and with the larger tires, that would add 4"-6" in overall width.
That makes the trailer overall width 66" - 68" , guessing trailer track about 64" - 66" and my Jeep track at 62" and width 73.7", so the trailer would end up being 5" - 7" smaller than the overall Jeep width, and I think the trailer track would still follow the Jeep tires, maybe on the outer half.

So will this trailer as delivered, handle wheel spacers and larger tires??
So will this width work with a JK and how wide it is?
Do I need to cut this trailer down a bit, say 5" and make the box 45" and overall width before tires 57", which I think would put the trail track almost equal to the JK?
I think cutting the trailer box to 41" (9") is too much?
What am I missing?

you guys have done this and I want your thoughts.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 10:41 PM   #648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coops2k View Post
might be missing something here, so please correct me if I am wrong.

By adding in a 205/75/15, it will add about 4" to the overall width of the trailer
By getting this trailer (when they are back in stock) http://www.deiequipment.com/armor-re...ler-black.html
the overall width of the trailer is 62", so adding an new axle or wheel spacers to the axle will add 2" on each side and with the larger tires, that would add 4"-6" in overall width.
That makes the trailer overall width 66" - 68" , guessing trailer track about 64" - 66" and my Jeep track at 62" and width 73.7", so the trailer would end up being 5" - 7" smaller than the overall Jeep width, and I think the trailer track would still follow the Jeep tires, maybe on the outer half.

So will this trailer as delivered, handle wheel spacers and larger tires??
So will this width work with a JK and how wide it is?
Do I need to cut this trailer down a bit, say 5" and make the box 45" and overall width before tires 57", which I think would put the trail track almost equal to the JK?
I think cutting the trailer box to 41" (9") is too much?
What am I missing?

you guys have done this and I want your thoughts.
Ok; the page says the trailer is 62" wide. I'm assuming that's from the outside of one tire to the outside of the other tire (and that's with the tires mounted on the 12" rims). In order for me to fit 205/75/15" tires on my little black trailer and have a little bit of clearance between the sides of the tires and the frame, I needed an axle 4" wider. So to fit 205/75/15" tires on this trailer, you have three options:

1. Get an axle 4" wider
2. Narrow the trailer box 4"
3. 2" wheel spacers.

If you narrow the box it won't change the 62" width measurement because you're not doing anything to the axle width.

I'm sure the axle can handle 205/75/15" tires. I'm not a fan of spacers on trailer axles; I don't know what (if any) the additional leverage would do. Usually trailer rims have zero offset (where the hub meets the wheel is along the midline of the rim - it's not offset one way or the other in or out).

At 50" wide, this is a pretty wide trailer box. I think your best bet would be to narrow the box 4-5" (2 - 2.5" from each side) and bring your axle's spring perches in the same amount on each side. Your trailer box would still be about 5 - 6" wider than mine (and wider than a military trailer's box), you'd have clearance for your 205/75/15" tires, and it would be the cheapest route.

And I think it will work just fine behind your JK.
five-foot-trailer.jpg

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Unread 07-13-2013, 12:48 AM   #649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Ok; the page says the trailer is 62" wide. I'm assuming that's from the outside of one tire to the outside of the other tire (and that's with the tires mounted on the 12" rims). In order for me to fit 205/75/15" tires on my little black trailer and have a little bit of clearance between the sides of the tires and the frame, I needed an axle 4" wider. So to fit 205/75/15" tires on this trailer, you have three options:

1. Get an axle 4" wider
2. Narrow the trailer box 4"
3. 2" wheel spacers.

If you narrow the box it won't change the 62" width measurement because you're not doing anything to the axle width.

I'm sure the axle can handle 205/75/15" tires. I'm not a fan of spacers on trailer axles; I don't know what (if any) the additional leverage would do. Usually trailer rims have zero offset (where the hub meets the wheel is along the midline of the rim - it's not offset one way or the other in or out).

At 50" wide, this is a pretty wide trailer box. I think your best bet would be to narrow the box 4-5" (2 - 2.5" from each side) and bring your axle's spring perches in the same amount on each side. Your trailer box would still be about 5 - 6" wider than mine (and wider than a military trailer's box), you'd have clearance for your 205/75/15" tires, and it would be the cheapest route.

And I think it will work just fine behind your JK.
Thanks Paul, that why I am asking,
Seems like doing 2" on each side would give me the clearance need for larger tires, still give me a 46" box, tread width of about 60" to be close to the JK's and an overall width of 62" or about 10" less than the JK


Anyone else?
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Unread 07-13-2013, 05:16 PM   #650
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Can you post a picture of how the leaf springs and the leaf spring bracketry mount to the frame. I'm trying to determine If I can buy a 5x8 and cut down the frame and relocate the springs/axle without anything more than drilling holes.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 06:48 PM   #651
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Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Can you post a picture of how the leaf springs and the leaf spring bracketry mount to the frame. I'm trying to determine If I can buy a 5x8 and cut down the frame and relocate the springs/axle without anything more than drilling holes.
start at post 369
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post14668127
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Unread 07-14-2013, 11:33 AM   #652
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Thats awesome this thread is still going strong. Still love the idea of a harbor freight trailer for camping, etc.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 01:53 PM   #653
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with the 48x96 trailer, it obviously has an A-frame tongue. Would you all run a tube down the center for strength? Also, with using ARMYRN's adaptable hitch set up and looking at the set up on the harbor freight trailer, it looks like you would have significant rise to the tongue. Does that make sense? From the factory the harbor freight trailer has "one step up" to the stock hitch, with ARMYRN's you would have the factory step up, plus the custom piece. Any concerns?
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Unread 07-14-2013, 02:05 PM   #654
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First I want to thank you for your service to our country. Our military are our true heros. I also want to say thanks to your dedication to your career, my mother was an RN with her MSN and taught Nursing for 12 years. I know how hard nurses work. I know your tread is now a couple of years old, but I just came across it and enjoy reading it. I have 2 trailers my self. Both are still pretty much bare stock frames. One I got off my brother and it is a small 4x5 (maybe) and the other is larger more like 5x8. I got the larger one by luck. The PO came thru drive-thru at a restaurant I managed. They were hauling a golf cart and cut the curve to sharp and ran it up on the curb. Well they busted the axle. They left it in the parking lot, next day they came back for the golf cart and left the trailer. Well am 1.5 months later the owners told me to get it out of their parking lot. Since the PO never left any contact info with the restaurant we considered it abandoned. Hauled it home and started making repairs. I never was able to find a vin on it so I went to the tag office and filed all the papers for a home built trailer. Now since I have 2 I can have one for all general hauling around the house (trash runs, supply runs, etc) and I can trick out the other one for a custom camping supply trailer. I look forward to continue reading the rest of the tread to get more great ideas. Great job on all of the mods, and great job on the wright ups. Once I figure out which trailer I am going to modify I will start a tread of my own. First I need to finish yours so I get all the tips and tricks.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
with the 48x96 trailer, it obviously has an A-frame tongue. Would you all run a tube down the center for strength?
You could, but I would not say it's necessary. On page #175 of jscherb's thread you can see his design. (There may be better pictures elsewhere in that thread; I didn't have time to look.)

For my smaller trailer, I considered replacing the HF tongue with a square tube that runs the entire length of the trailer. That way, it would be strong enough to pull someone out of a pinch without unhitching the trailer. But I decided against it. It just depends on how strong you want your trailer to be and how much weight you plan to carry in it. For me, I don't think it's needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Also, with using ARMYRN's adaptable hitch set up and looking at the set up on the harbor freight trailer, it looks like you would have significant rise to the tongue. Does that make sense? From the factory the harbor freight trailer has "one step up" to the stock hitch, with ARMYRN's you would have the factory step up, plus the custom piece. Any concerns?
Two "steps up" may be too many (or maybe not). It depends on how high your Jeep bumper is, how big your trailer tires are, and the design of the tongue as to how much drop you need on the hitch. My Jeep tires and trailer tires are the same height, and the trailer rides level with a 2" hitch drop. If I were to run smaller tires, I would need a larger hitch drop. Or, I could go with armyrn's design, with the "step up", and not need a longer drop in my hitch.

The link to jscherb's post above shows a slightly different design from armyrn. Either would work fine depending on your overall set up.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:21 PM   #656
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Other than the height issues with the hitch setup...any others?
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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:40 PM   #657
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Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Other than the height issues with the hitch setup...any others?
IMHO, there are likely no concerns. However, if it were me, I would prefer a design with no more than one step. Thus, either:

a) follow jscherb's design linked above (which uses a center tube allowing no step), or
b) fab a receiver tube that replaces the HF ball hitch by sliding through and bolting directly to the red piece that the ball hitch bolted to, thereby leaving only the one step just as it comes from HF.

I don't have the 8' HF trailer to measure from, but it appears that for option 'b' you may be able to weld a hitch receiver tube telescoping around a smaller tube that would bolt right in to the HF bracket.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:43 PM   #658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
with the 48x96 trailer, Would you all run a tube down the center for strength?
Actually I did that with my 48 x 40.5 HF trailer and it just feels more firm than it did before I put it on. Driving down bad, dirt roads it seems to be more ridged. Others may say you should have the flex, and they could be right. But I was afraid of the trailer coming apart, so I did but a beam the length of the trailer. And that also allowed me to extend the tongue quite a bit further which helped in other ways. Also, i can pull something else (like another microtrailer?). It's likely overkill, but I just did it for strength sake and piece of mind.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:57 PM   #659
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HF trailers on sale

Just wanted to post up the HArbor Freight is selling 40 x 48 micro-trailers for $182, and then you can get a 20% off coupon on the web. (link below) That makes the trailer cost around (not sure of my math) $145? WOW! I might go buy one just to have an extra to build up different.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20off-c...aff-17547.html
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Unread 07-14-2013, 10:21 PM   #660
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Originally Posted by NUTKINS View Post
Thats awesome this thread is still going strong. Still love the idea of a harbor freight trailer for camping, etc.
Yeah I'm amazed too. The few threads I've actually started on this forum usually don't make it to a second page.

But it's great folks are rediscovering (since the Army started putting trailers behind their Jeeps in the 1940's so it's not an original thought) the benefits of pulling a small trailer behind their Jeeps. It's so nice when you're taking your Jeep camping and you can take additional gear with you in your trailer.

What's kept this thread going are folks posting up pictures and write-ups of their trailer build-ups. Seems like you can easily build a basic trailer and have it road ready and cargo ready for around $500. That's cheap; you can spend more than that for an aluminum tool/cargobox that bolts to the rear of your TJ in place of the rear seat.

So keep posting your trailer builds! Either post them here, or start a separate thread as others have done, but post a link here so we can "go visit" and see what you're up to.
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