Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - Page 206 - JeepForum.com
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post #3076 of 3179 Old 03-15-2017, 03:28 PM
jski701
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I know it's more solid and definitely built better than mine, but there's no way I could ever justify the extra 6,000$ over mine. I mostly built mine because I wanted to and it was fun, but I'll never use it 7k$ worth.


I aint saying its right, but I understand......Chris Rock


My off road trailer build - M416 copy:

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post #3077 of 3179 Old 03-15-2017, 04:35 PM
profdlp
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I am getting into my new home tomorrow and will finally have a garage to work in. As a bonus, it is HUGE! I am hoping to take my "dreaming of a trailer" to the "building a trailer" stage. Maybe even as soon as this summer.
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post #3078 of 3179 Old 03-18-2017, 05:49 PM
jski701
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A little box making 101 for anyone interested in a simple design, which you can developed and improve within your skill level. I didn't use any dado's or mitre the corners, nothing fancy, all stuff I'll leave up to your skills. Anyway, it's small, but you can increase the size to your needs. 24" deep 30" wide 16" tall Just a storage box that can go in the back of my jeep when the top is off or for tools in the back of my truck. Cut sizes : Top/bottom - 24"x 30" Front/back - 14.5" x 30" Sides - 14.5" x 22.5"

Assemble the sides between the front and back

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Next attach the top and bottom

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Next get ready to cut the top off, if you use this method, be aware of screw and staple placement. I choose to cut off 3 inches when I make box lids, it gives room for the waterproofing lip and gives the top plenty of structure and room for screws.

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If you choose to build your trailer box this way, I did, you'll want as much waterproofing as possible. I handle this with an inside board with a 45* bevel that sticks up higher than the seem. I also bevel the bottom so it doesn't catch your hands when pulling stuff out of your box.

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The cut off pieces make nice gussets you can add to all your corners for extra support.

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Im not using gussets or a waterproof lip because I don't plan to have it in the weather too much

Next some hardware

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Basic box is complete, sand and finish to your liking, increase the size to your needs and go crazy having fun. Don't forget my edge sealing technique

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Basically wood glue mixed with water to thin it out a little. Not too watery and not too thick, just thin enough to paint on a few coats to seal up all the edges before you apply your finish, whether paint or bed liner or whatever you choose. And for your info 2 sheets of 3/4" ply will build a 4'x4' box 2' high. Add 2 8' 1"x3" pieces of pine for your waterproofing lip and your in business.

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post #3079 of 3179 Old 03-18-2017, 07:01 PM
jski701
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Seems like some of the pictures are out of order but you'll get the idea.

I aint saying its right, but I understand......Chris Rock


My off road trailer build - M416 copy:

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post #3080 of 3179 Old 03-20-2017, 10:39 AM
Snowdogs
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I know this isn't an HF trailer but it will fit my needs better. Among doing duty as a true utility trailer hauling dirt, yard and garden supplies and home improvement supplies, it will also be taken on trips hauling camping gear and double as my sleeping quarters. I'm going to get a solid rear panel for it but I'm torn on the top. Do I get an aluminum top made and put on a roof top tent or get a couple bows made and get a local awning shop make a tent like an old covered wagon? If I go the awning route, I would also have them make a cover that I can bungee down and use while driving to keep things inside dry.

Any thoughts or suggestions before I buy?

Thank You
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post #3081 of 3179 Old 03-20-2017, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Originally Posted by Snowdogs View Post
I know this isn't an HF trailer but it will fit my needs better. Among doing duty as a true utility trailer hauling dirt, yard and garden supplies and home improvement supplies, it will also be taken on trips hauling camping gear and double as my sleeping quarters. I'm going to get a solid rear panel for it but I'm torn on the top. Do I get an aluminum top made and put on a roof top tent or get a couple bows made and get a local awning shop make a tent like an old covered wagon? If I go the awning route, I would also have them make a cover that I can bungee down and use while driving to keep things inside dry.

Any thoughts or suggestions before I buy?

Thank You
Nice looking trailer.

If you get an aluminum top made, be sure it is strong enough to support the weight of the RTT plus all occupants.

A third option is something like bows, but upright supports to support a RTT above the trailer. Check this thread out for a visual (you'll have to scroll down a few posts till you come to the pictures with the four uprights).

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/th...-Trailer-Build

And here's one way to do it:

https://tventuring.com/trailerforum/thread-1063.html

You can teach manners, but you can't teach class.

Trailer build:
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post #3082 of 3179 Old 03-20-2017, 06:26 PM
Snowdogs
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Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Nice looking trailer.

If you get an aluminum top made, be sure it is strong enough to support the weight of the RTT plus all occupants.

A third option is something like bows, but upright supports to support a RTT above the trailer. Check this thread out for a visual (you'll have to scroll down a few posts till you come to the pictures with the four uprights).

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/th...-Trailer-Build

And here's one way to do it:

https://tventuring.com/trailerforum/thread-1063.html
I like the expedition portal, it looks like I'll need more reinforcements than I was thinking. I may go Conestoga wagon with a tarp for the sleeping setup and a flat tarp for travel. I have an old tarp from my dad's tractor trailer that I'll cut down and have D rings attached for travel. It is waterproof.
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post #3083 of 3179 Old 03-20-2017, 07:49 PM
NMBruce
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As I said a while back, looking at rebuilding my trailer box, using 1x6, but got a couple of questions.
1) I was thinking of adding about 4-6" at the back, past the metal part of the trailer frame. Do you think this will cause a problem off road? Too much over hang?
2) thinking about attaching a metal frame to the front and back to hold a RTT. My idea is to have the RTT sit on top for traveling, then flip off to the side for sleeping and access into the box. The frame would flip the RTT to over the wheel arch and the RTT would be supported by 4-6 legs. Do you think the 1x6 wood will be strong enough to support the metal frame and RTT while going down the road? Do I need 2x6 at the front and back for the support?
3) other ideas?

2013 JKUR sold
2006 GX470
I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
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post #3084 of 3179 Old 03-20-2017, 08:48 PM
jski701
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I would need to see some visuals.. either a drawing or some pictures to get a better understanding of where the support needs to be.
Are you planning to attach the RTT frame to the wood or the trailer ?

I aint saying its right, but I understand......Chris Rock


My off road trailer build - M416 copy:

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post #3085 of 3179 Old 03-20-2017, 11:58 PM
NMBruce
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JSKI701, lLook at the box you build, since the top is the same size as the box, that is what I am thinking of building with the lid opening from the passenger side (or it could be drivers side, doesn't matter). Now at the front and rear corners, I would mount the metal legs that would support a metal frame for the tent. These legs would support a frame for the tent and the tent while traveling, but not for sleeping. That's where the question comes in, will the 1x6 support that, say 150-200lbs?The tent would sit up side down on this frame and one side would have hinges so that the tent and its frame could be unhooked from the legs (attached to the wood box) and flip over away from the lid. Now the tent would be up right, but off to one side of the trailer.

I will try to do a drawing, but not one of my stronger acts.

2013 JKUR sold
2006 GX470
I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
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post #3086 of 3179 Old 03-21-2017, 12:08 AM
NMBruce
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Originally Posted by jski701 View Post
So the 4 legs would be at the corners, 2 front corners and the 2 back corners between the edge of the box and the tailgate opening.

2013 JKUR sold
2006 GX470
I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
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post #3087 of 3179 Old 03-21-2017, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMBruce View Post
As I said a while back, looking at rebuilding my trailer box, using 1x6, but got a couple of questions.
1) I was thinking of adding about 4-6" at the back, past the metal part of the trailer frame. Do you think this will cause a problem off road? Too much over hang?
2) thinking about attaching a metal frame to the front and back to hold a RTT. My idea is to have the RTT sit on top for traveling, then flip off to the side for sleeping and access into the box. The frame would flip the RTT to over the wheel arch and the RTT would be supported by 4-6 legs. Do you think the 1x6 wood will be strong enough to support the metal frame and RTT while going down the road? Do I need 2x6 at the front and back for the support?
3) other ideas?
Intriguing idea of having the RTT close to the trailer's lid, but able to flip over so you have full access to the trailer's contents via the top lid.

I'm wanting to say "No" to the 1x6 being strong enough to support what you're suggesting. I would want the metal frame attached securely to the trailer's metal frame. If you wanted to tie-in the metal frame to the 1x6 in addition to securely attached to the trailer's frame itself, that would be fine.

Some folks do a telescoping framework for their RTT; close to the trailer's lid for traveling, then raised for when they want to open up the RTT.

You can teach manners, but you can't teach class.

Trailer build:
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post #3088 of 3179 Old 03-21-2017, 06:39 AM
jski701
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I agree that the box itself isn't strong enough. It transfers all the forces to the points where the box attaches to the trailer frame and the bottom joints of the box. In case of a collision or a severe angle off road, there would likely be catastrophic damage due to insufficient mounting with that kind of leverage. Definitely needs hard attachment to the frame for safe travels.


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My off road trailer build - M416 copy:

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post #3089 of 3179 Old 03-21-2017, 02:36 PM
NMBruce
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Thanks guys for your input. I don't like the telescoping RTT, main reason is I have no desire to climb up and down to a RTT. If I can get it to flip over and sit just over the wheel arch, then its a step or 2 to get in and out.

2013 JKUR sold
2006 GX470
I knew I shoulda taken that left turn at Albuquerque! - Bugs Bunny
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post #3090 of 3179 Old 03-21-2017, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
armyRN
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I came across this on the Expedition Portal this evening:

http://trailersauce.com/

Check out the tabs across the top and scroll down them, especially the one labeled "Information". The one there that caught my eye dealt with tongue design and function.

http://trailersauce.com/information/...sign-function/

For these little HF-type trailers, the simple rule-of-thumb is to have a tongue long enough so you can have your trailer jackknifed at a 90-degree angle and nothing hits (I call it the "90-degree test"). Mine is 55" from the front of the tub to the center of my lunette ring (I had to extend it a bit when I added the cooler tray up front).

They also have a tab labeled "equipment" (here one of the things they talk about is suspensions), and they have trailer plans. Interesting site to poke around in.

You can teach manners, but you can't teach class.

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