Max. Flex vs. Useful Flex and The Anti-rock - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 118 Old 10-05-2012, 10:41 AM
mikl123
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Can you help me understand then?? please??


2000 tj-2.5 rough country lift/ 33" BF tires- rock slidersteps- 7"flares"- Rugged Ridge front/rear bumper--hood scoop-black 15" CRAGAR rims- hardtop privacy glass- seat covers- aux tube bumper lights- herculiner inside- L.E.D taillights, powerade throttle body spacer, 6" daylighters ect...
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post #77 of 118 Old 10-06-2012, 09:42 AM
Heath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikl123
Okay, a while ago I came across a forum that described how a dude lifted his tj 4 inches by simply putting 2" xj coils on the front of the tj , while moving the stock front coils to the rear. Along with 4" shocks and a homemade transfercase drop. He said everything works fine when it comes to track bars, control arms, no motor mount or drop needed, and stock brake lines. BUT he said he doesn't know about the front sway bar because he removed it when he got the jeep. So my question is, IS there a way to make longer discos for my stock sway bar that would work with the lift I plan on doing???? I really dont want run without the front sway bar, and cant afford the anti-rock at the moment.
What





The





Funk





?

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post #78 of 118 Old 10-07-2012, 08:51 AM
mikl123
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I can post the link so you know what I am talking about if you would like? Haha an I the only one that has ever heard of this??

2000 tj-2.5 rough country lift/ 33" BF tires- rock slidersteps- 7"flares"- Rugged Ridge front/rear bumper--hood scoop-black 15" CRAGAR rims- hardtop privacy glass- seat covers- aux tube bumper lights- herculiner inside- L.E.D taillights, powerade throttle body spacer, 6" daylighters ect...
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post #79 of 118 Old 10-07-2012, 03:28 PM
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Haha an I the only one that has ever heard of this??
You hang out here long enough you'll see people claim almost anything. Most of us know better though.

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post #80 of 118 Old 10-07-2012, 07:00 PM
mikl123
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Why won't it work though??

2000 tj-2.5 rough country lift/ 33" BF tires- rock slidersteps- 7"flares"- Rugged Ridge front/rear bumper--hood scoop-black 15" CRAGAR rims- hardtop privacy glass- seat covers- aux tube bumper lights- herculiner inside- L.E.D taillights, powerade throttle body spacer, 6" daylighters ect...
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post #81 of 118 Old 10-08-2012, 06:55 AM
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Why won't it work though??
Swapping springs my or may not work. People try lots of combinations there.

Its really the rest of the post where you're losing people. TC drop? No thanks I like the lift I paid money for and in fact did a tummy tuck beyond that. No need for changing trackbars, control arms, brake lines, etc.? No need for addressing driveline issues? A lift is a lift when it comes to that stuff. Exactly what springs are in is irrelevant. We all know what is required with a 4" lift. Anybody who doesn't get that needs to learn a bit more.

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post #82 of 118 Old 10-09-2012, 08:46 AM
mikl123
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So your saying this absolutely won't work, I just thought I would give it a try since it's so cheap I could get the xj springs for 30$ should I just get a cheap RC 4" lift. If I knew anything about lifts I wouldn't be asking you guys im just regurgitating what I found lol

2000 tj-2.5 rough country lift/ 33" BF tires- rock slidersteps- 7"flares"- Rugged Ridge front/rear bumper--hood scoop-black 15" CRAGAR rims- hardtop privacy glass- seat covers- aux tube bumper lights- herculiner inside- L.E.D taillights, powerade throttle body spacer, 6" daylighters ect...
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post #83 of 118 Old 10-09-2012, 08:58 AM
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I have a cheap RC lift. Trust me. You will regret that decision very soon. Save the money use the time it takes to save that money and learn everything you can about control arms bumpstops driveline gearing steering upgrades shock length in relation to axle drop SYE's and CVshafts who makes good shocks who makes long lasting springs. And then buy the lift you want that best fits your jeep
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post #84 of 118 Old 10-09-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikl123 View Post
So your saying this absolutely won't work, I just thought I would give it a try since it's so cheap I could get the xj springs for 30$ should I just get a cheap RC 4" lift. If I knew anything about lifts I wouldn't be asking you guys im just regurgitating what I found lol
As I said before, all the issues associated with lifting (e.g. driveline angle, axles off center, control arm angle, brake line length, etc., etc.) will present themselves regardless of what springs you use.

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post #85 of 118 Old 10-18-2012, 10:29 AM
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Can someone please provide additional feedback on using the anti-rock front with and without the rear sway? I have one and tried it both ways and it felt like I had better traction without the rear sway, but considerably more roll on the road, especially when transitioning from one direction to the other, i.e, in an "S" curve. It is not a big deal once you get used to it, but the untrained driver would certainly feel uneasy. I also keep the front set to the softest setting and I am a beginner off road.
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post #86 of 118 Old 10-18-2012, 10:37 AM
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They (front and rear) are engineered to work together to reduce body roll and maximize traction to the wheels by keeping the pressure at all four corners somewhat equal. I could be wrong but that's about how I understood it.

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post #87 of 118 Old 10-18-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Same here. The Antirock / SwayLOC is designed to work WITH the stock rear swaybar. On the trail it provides really leveled and balanced handling and chassis control.

- Jay
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post #88 of 118 Old 10-18-2012, 12:04 PM
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It has nothing to do with something being "designed to work with the stock rear sway bar." There was nothing magical done to the AR, SwayLoc or any other torsion bar available on the market that makes it care about what's going on in the rear.....but yes, the AR's rate works well with the stock sway bar and works even better with a higher-rate rear torsion bar like the rear AR. All I mean is that it's not like there's a torsion bar out that will benefit from not having another bar on the other end.....Using a torsion bar like the AR without having something in the rear to work against it is pointless. The same situation can be viewed similarly from the converse....running a rear sway bar with nothing up front, exactly what so many people do with their "quick disconnects."

Think of your frame as a seesaw. What happens when you sit on one end of that seesaw with nothing else on the other side? You (a sway bar) have full influence over the orientation of that seesaw. The seesaw is 100% biased one one side and is therefore, unbalanced. Put someone else of similar weight (rate of the bar) and similar distance away (length of link arms) from the fulcrum point and it'll sit level. The weights are opposing/counteracting each other and putting the seesaw in an unbiased, balanced state. With that said, no matter how perfectly you've got the sway bar rates and arm lengths figured out, your frame won't be level in all situations. But, you'll be in a much better situation than if you had no influence or a biased influence.

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post #89 of 118 Old 10-18-2012, 12:43 PM
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I was referring to front and rear (swaybars).

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post #90 of 118 Old 10-18-2012, 07:42 PM
aTX427
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Do most people use the Currie AR with the stock sway? I'm not supposed to buying the rear if there is a value to $$, but I'm planning to relocate my upper rear springs units and outboard the shocks with a Poly kit and don't want to create more work than its worth.
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