[fyrfyter43]

Originally Posted by lupinsea

Dang, that's too bad.

Well, after about 2 years the heim joints on my anit-rock are wearing out and need to be replaced. I may pick up the supplies from McMaster Carr including $4 in the threaded rod and jsut make some new links instead of trying to find "just the right" 20 pitch heim joint.

Or you could always just get the heims from McMaster-Carr.

1/2" - 20 heim joints, female shank, greasable.

RH thread: p/n 4444T231 $6.98
LH thread: p/n 4444T232 $6.98

Click!

[lupinsea]

I ended up upgrading to the SwayLOC. Damn, it's an awesome piece of equipment. The Anti-rock is good but having the second stiffer torsion rod for the street setting is great. TJ corners really flat now. And switching between onroad and offroad takes about 2 seconds and a flip of a lever.

[flexytj79]

just fitted my antirock 2 weeks ago , so much better to drive on and off road
now

[kenskis]

I like the explanation, it explains off-road sway bars well. However if you have locking differentials wouldn't you want maximum flex to try and have a level body for you Jeep, while the suspension does all the flexing. I can see that one tire might have very little down force, and thus little traction, but with lockers the other tire should be able to have adequate traction. Am I wrong?

[hoot20]

i have no flex and i'm really wanting to get this but could someone answer this?
- i have a 2.5" coild spacer and a 2" body..... could the anti-rock be installed easily?
- does the anti-rock drive good on the road?

[lupinsea]

On Road Handling
The Anti-rock does fine on the road but there's significantly more body lean. If you learn to drive with it, though it's fine. By that I mean: start turning the steering wheel gradually as you approach a corner, this will let the Jeep lean and start loading up the Anti-rock. Then you can feed in more steering input for a smoother, more controled turn. If you just yank the wheel as you get to the turn it'll instead throw the Jeep to one side more dramatically and feel more unsettling. The Anti-rock still works to control the sway (vs. not having a swaybar at all) but it's a softer bar so it allows more body sway.

This is exactly why I upgraded to the SwayLOC. Offroad they have essentially the same performance*. But on-road it's a HUGE world of difference with the SwayLOC being a hair stiffer than a stock swaybar. As such the Jeep responds to steering input faster, it feels a whole lot more stable, and corners worlds flatter than the Anti-rock. It's also more expensive. But if you're looking at a $300 Anti-rock, the extra $200 for the SwayLOC is money well spent for a daily driver.


Ride Height
Read through the the OP and check out the Additional Resources at the bottom. There's an install on a 2" lifted Jeep that'll be helpful for a 2.5" lift. If you can find some double threaded end links from McMaster Carr instead of getting a custom machined link that should save a pile.

For what it's worth, the SwayLOC is designed for rigs from 0-6+ inches of lift. The Anti-rock works best with rigs 4" and higher. Lower than that, especially 2" or lower Jeeps, and you get into issues with not having enough threads on the end links.

[CCJ]

Hey lump, how is your sway loc holding up? I'm bout to get the RC 2.5" lift mated to 32x11.5R16 tires and RC dual steering stabilizer. I was about to order some quick disco's bout found your thread. Any updates for us that have never driven w/ a sway-loc or anti-rock?

[Jerry Bransford]

Avoid a dual stabilizer type of steering stabilizer setup. First, the second shock isn't needed for even 35-37" tires, let alone your 32" tires. Second, it just makes the power steering system have to work harder and on a tight-twisty trail on a warm day, it could be enough to cause your PS system to overheat and the PS fluid to boil over. Yes, that happens.

[lupinsea]

Originally Posted by CCJ

Hey lump, how is your sway loc holding up? I'm bout to get the RC 2.5" lift mated to 32x11.5R16 tires and RC dual steering stabilizer. I was about to order some quick disco's bout found your thread. Any updates for us that have never driven w/ a sway-loc or anti-rock?

Lump? I think you're talking to me so . . .

The SwayLOC is holding up better than the Anti-rock.

With the Anti-rock I had problems with the arms loosening up where they clamped on to the torsion rod splines. Don't know what it was but I could never get the bolts tight enough to completely lock down the arms. SO there'd always be some play there. And this is something that I've noticed on every single other Anti-rock that I've run across (I've personally encountered about 7-8 rigs in the NW running the Anti-rock). Every single one . . . loose arms.

Now, the SwayLOC has been installed now for about as long as I had the Anti-rock on. No slop at all. Arms are still clamped nice and tight around the splines. Part of it could be that the SwayLOC "spline clamps" are thicker than the Anti-rock equivalent by about 1/8" or so. I don't doubt the extra materials helps in this regard.

Also, not sure what it is but the heim joints on the SwayLOC set up are also holding up much better. The races in the Anti-rock joints wore out a bit so everything made a jiggling / rattling noise after some time.

Everything on the Anti-rock still functioned well, but was just a bit looser and a bit noisier.

In comparison, the SwayLOC feels as tight and solid as it did when it was installed brand new 2 years ago.



And for what it's worth, the new improvements to the SwayLOC that have come out since I bought mine (which was version 2) look like they are worth the price bump. Mine is still work'n great but for anyone buying the new version . . . cool.

[CCJ]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Avoid a dual stabilizer type of steering stabilizer setup. First, the second shock isn't needed for even 35-37" tires, let alone your 32" tires. Second, it just makes the power steering system have to work harder and on a tight-twisty trail on a warm day, it could be enough to cause your PS system to overheat and the PS fluid to boil over. Yes, that happens.

Thanks Jerry. Noted. single stabilizer.

Originally Posted by lupinsea

Lump? I think you're talking to me so . . .

The SwayLOC is holding up better than the Anti-rock.

With the Anti-rock I had problems with the arms loosening up where they clamped on to the torsion rod splines. Don't know what it was but I could never get the bolts tight enough to completely lock down the arms. SO there'd always be some play there. And this is something that I've noticed on every single other Anti-rock that I've run across (I've personally encountered about 7-8 rigs in the NW running the Anti-rock). Every single one . . . loose arms.

Now, the SwayLOC has been installed now for about as long as I had the Anti-rock on. No slop at all. Arms are still clamped nice and tight around the splines. Part of it could be that the SwayLOC "spline clamps" are thicker than the Anti-rock equivalent by about 1/8" or so. I don't doubt the extra materials helps in this regard.

Also, not sure what it is but the heim joints on the SwayLOC set up are also holding up much better. The races in the Anti-rock joints wore out a bit so everything made a jiggling / rattling noise after some time.

Everything on the Anti-rock still functioned well, but was just a bit looser and a bit noisier.

In comparison, the SwayLOC feels as tight and solid as it did when it was installed brand new 2 years ago.



And for what it's worth, the new improvements to the SwayLOC that have come out since I bought mine (which was version 2) look like they are worth the price bump. Mine is still work'n great but for anyone buying the new version . . . cool.

Thanks Lup. Sorry for name mess up. I have another question but I will just PM you that one. Since it's off the sway loc subject.

[jspb16]

i like the antirock very good articulation... look to install one on the back

[DevilDogDoc]

So how many of the swayloc guys still love them considered all the breakage reported as of late?

[Redarcher89]

I love mine. I have not had any problems with anything breaking on it.

[ErikJordan]

Originally Posted by DevilDogDoc

So how many of the swayloc guys still love them considered all the breakage reported as of late?

It is a tough call. I had one of the earlier models and it broke completely. I now have the later version and it is noisy and the D shape to mount the arm is not a good one. It allows it to move a bit over time and it makes a popping sound every time it moves.
Great idea poor execution.

[Vin]

For those that changed out the sway bars on a jk rubicon, how does the removal of the electric disco affect the computer that will now think there is no sway bar there? Does effect the Electronic Stability Controls?