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Unread 02-15-2007, 07:44 PM   #1
mike_dippert
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Long Term Build Plans...feedback wanted PLEEEEEASE

Heres my end goal:
Phase 1: 33's, RE 4.5 SF w/ 3.5" spring
Phase 2: 35's, RE 4.5 LA coil overs/air shocks
Phase a: Golen Stroker
(Phase a has no real place in the timeline, its more like whenever I decide to do it)

Heres what I have now:
'99 TJ Sport, 4.0L I6, 32RH automatic tranny, NP231 t-case, D30/35, stock suspension

For this build, I'm willing to spend more $$$ on a part if it means saving in the long run.
***Example: Buying a stronger T-Case in the beginning if the NP231 can't hold up to a stroker and 35's. I don't want to buy a SYE just to have the case explode, nor do i want to purchase a driveshaft if its going to be too long or short when i get the stronger T-case.***

Lets start w/ phase 1:
Issue 1: Transfer Case
*Can the 231 w/ a SYE hold up to a stroker and locked 35's? If not, I will buy a Stak D300 before dealing w/ driveshaft length.

Issue 2: Driveshafts
These are the scenarios that go through my head:
*one driveshaft will work for both lifts, and it wont matter if i have the HP9 or D30/35. result = 1pr of shafts bought, doesn't matter which axle is being run
*one driveshaft will work for both lifts, but the axle does make a difference result = 1pr of shafts bought but i have to get the HP9 before installing d-shaft.
*one driveshaft will work for the short lift and the D30/35, AND it will work for the taller lift and the HP9, but not interchangably result= 1pr of driveshafts bought, HP9 needs to be put on w/ taller lift
*one driveshaft will NOT work. result= can't save money by only buying 1pr of shafts

Issue 3: Engine I want coil packs on my stroker. I will be getting a block designed for '00+.
*The only way to do that is to use a computer from a '00 or newer TJ, correct?
*Since I have an automatic, the computer also needs to be compatible with the 32RH, correct? or is there a seperate computer for the tranny?
*is there a sensor problem, since '00+ had aditional catalysts and various other exhaust changes?
*Will a completely new exhaust be neccessary?

Issue 4: Suspension
*I'm thinking 10" or 12" coilover/air shocks would work well w/ the RE 4.5 LA kit. Am I wrong? (I still want it streetable, and relatively safe).
*Is there a single shock that can be adjusted to perform the same as a typical 3.5" AND 4.5" spring/shock combo?
*Based on pricing from the RE website, the shocks and coils are ~$1000, I could apply that (or most of it) toward the coilover/airshocks.

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JF taught me that the 2.5L, Ax-5 and D35 together are so powerful that angels weep when I shift into 4LO.
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Unread 02-28-2007, 07:20 PM   #2
tommaho
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Williamsport, PA
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My opinion? skip phase 1. Run a BB, BL, and 33s. Skid every inch, Maybe upgrade your axles and lock one end, then wheel the crap out of it. With skill and a good spotter, you can run up to low blacks at Paragon and most blacks at Rausch with that setup. After a year of that, your plan is probably gonna be completely different.

Also, once you price everything out: stroker, ignition, tcase, lockers, coilovers, HP9, ect, you've got a build well into the 10s of thousands of $$. You made a big enough point about saving money on driveshafts that I'm not sure you realize what you'd be getting into. JMHO.

Tom
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Unread 02-28-2007, 08:17 PM   #3
TJgreg
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I agree, no point in wasting money on short arms and 33's. That kind of cash will come in big later down the road.

Recently I got a loan courtesy of Uncle Sam and Navy Federal, and went from 31's to 36's. While some may say do it in steps and learn the capebilities over time, I had reached the limits of where 31's would take me, and probably shouldnt have in some instances.

I just finished my RE LA, Steering, Armor, and bumper upgrades all at once and I couldnt be happier.
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Unread 03-01-2007, 01:51 PM   #4
BigJeepJay
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You have a lot more researching to do as you seem to be missing a good deal of info/knowledge. Tomm gave some great advice...I think you should listen to it.

As an example of what you are lacking and need to research more...$1000 for coils and shocks based from the RE website Call some vendors, I can get a set of coils and good shocks for around $350-$400 based on JF Vendor prices.

Not trying to be rude but I have gone through some intense builds on my 4x4's and it just dosen't seem like you have researched everything thoroughly enough yet.
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Unread 03-01-2007, 03:06 PM   #5
jason m
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i am a little confused, the driveshafts what do you mean that one shaft will work for bolth lifts???? do you mean the existing lift you have now and the new one you want to build. i mean driveshafts would be the last thing on my plate to worry about. i get the my suspension dialed in and this is after i would strecth it a little. what axles are you planing on i see that you want to run a HP9, is this front or rear or bolth?? are you going to use the true HIGH 9 or are you going to use 8.8 center sections. the 8.8 center's are only rated for a 35'' tire and under 250 HP. if you run one in the rear then the horse power rating go's down, since the 8.8 is runing on the coast side. to better help you we need more info, jason.
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Unread 03-07-2007, 06:46 PM   #6
JeepRocks86
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If you plan to LA it why not bite the bullet and do it now. when I first did mine I wasn't going to ever LA it and I wasn't going to go larger than 33s. well that didn't work.
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Unread 03-07-2007, 08:07 PM   #7
mike_dippert
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ok, so i changed my mind about the hardcore-ness of my current jeep. In a couple years when my 31's wear out, i'm going throw in a currie HP9 w/ ARB, and a RE4.5 SF and 33's.
until then I'm waiting on the tax return to help w/ a jeep medic engine skid, kilby gas tank skid and 33eng TT.

then later on down the road, after i have a garage to myself and all the tools and know-how, I'm going to build a trail-only rig around a CJ8 frame: 350, TH400, D300, D60's, 35-37's, coilovers...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
JF taught me that the 2.5L, Ax-5 and D35 together are so powerful that angels weep when I shift into 4LO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The only thing a bicycle inner tube is good for, is tying a knot in the end of when you run out of condoms.
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