How to properly use a recovery strap for towing?

JeffB · 01-07-2010, 07:23 PM

I carry a 25ft recovery strap (the kind with looped ends and no hooks on it) in the back of my TJ. A couple of times I've helped a stranded motorist tow their vehicle off the road and both times I've had trouble attaching the strap to the disabled car. The Corolla I towed today had a very small eye on the towing bracket and the strap wouldn't fit through. I used a piece of rope to make a bigger loop but it broke as I was trying start moving. Anybody have advice on how to do this properly? I used a "clinch knot" that is common for fishing hooks with the strap and it seemed to work but probably not the right way to do it.

Also my TJ has a manual transmission which is kind of jerky to get started pulling. Should I use 4-wheel low or just pull in 2WD? And for off-road recovery what are proper procedures? I've never done that before but I'm sure the situation will arise and I want to get it right.

Patrick H · 01-07-2010, 07:26 PM

ClimbStuff · 01-07-2010, 07:42 PM

Yea, have a couple shackles... you can feed them through tow points and secure your shackle the correct way.

daggo66 · 01-07-2010, 09:07 PM

That is not a "towing bracket" on the Corolla. It's a tie down bracket for shipping.

**whatevah** · 01-08-2010, 12:53 AM

As for what technique you use, that depends on the situation. Generally, for recovering a stuck vehicle you'll usually be in 4low, since you generate a lot more pulling power. Start off with a few feet of slack, let out the clutch and idle until you start putting tension on the line and then give it some gas. For stuck in mud stuff, you may need to back up halfway and give it a slow running start. Search around for that, there are straps designed specifically to be YANKED on, as they stretch and rebound it pulls the vehicle free. But, not all straps are designed like that. If you're actually "towing" a vehicle back to pavement or something (something that's not stuck, but just dead) then you'll be fine in 2wd if the other vehicle is in neutral, otherwise... have fun.

You don't want to (and legally cannot) tow on road with just a strap. Most states specifically require a tow bar or dolly to be use, although I have been involved in a recovery situation where we towed a disabled Jeep a mile from the trail to the nearest place we could park a trailer.

**digitalcox** · 01-08-2010, 07:03 AM

Here is a decent article on proper recovery and usage.

Recovery Straps - Tow Straps - Proper Usage

JeffB · 01-08-2010, 11:17 AM

I'll get a couple of shackles. And my strap is designed to be yanked although I'd like to avoid it unless its absolutely required. As far as the law, it may be technically illegal but I had an officer last night offer to drive behind us with his lights on for safety until we got the lady's Corolla into a parking lot 1/2 mile up the road. I think officers look the other way in situations where you're just getting the car off the road a short distance.

Thanks, I appreciate everybody's input.

**notmyj** · 01-08-2010, 11:22 AM

when it comes to pulling out vehicles that dont have recovery points but are stuck in the snow, in a ditch, etc, use the proper tools. I carry a towing bridle with clusters. You can then use your chain or strap with a clevis and tug the vehicle free.

Bridle Assemble - 5/16" x 2' (J Tow Hook,T Tow Hook, R Tow Hook)

When pulling a vehicle out of a snow drift, a ditch, etc DO NOT "snatch" it. Chances are you will do more harm than good. The unibodies are pretty fragile, and easy to deform or tweak. Using the above bridle correctly, you can recover most road stucks without causing damage if its done properly. Do not attach to suspension components, or drive line items. The little hook that you mentioned is generally used for shipping tie down, but in a pinch, I have used them to recover vehicles. However, it was on ice, and i used both of them together, so the load on them was minimal.

If you want to do "good samaritan" roadside recoveries, get the proper equipment and learn how to use it. You want to be as gentle as possible with moms mini van, or the uncles mid size sedan. Use 4 low, tighten the chains as slow as possble, less than idle speed. Once they are tight, then and only then start to release the clutch to start the gentle tug. Be very easy with the gas pedal and the clutch, keep it as smooth as possible and very little jerking.

Look around online for videos and write ups/articles relating to the towing industry and the equip.

JeffB · 01-08-2010, 07:13 PM

^^^Excellent info, that's exactly what I was looking for. I've done this several times now and its frustrating as heck to deal with a car that's low to the ground, has a plastic front bumper casing and no good attachment points. All cars should be made with some sort of towing point accessible.

**notmyj** · 01-08-2010, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffB

^^^Excellent info, that's exactly what I was looking for. I've done this several times now and its frustrating as heck to deal with a car that's low to the ground, has a plastic front bumper casing and no good attachment points. All cars should be made with some sort of towing point accessible.

All cars, trucks even our jeeps have places to hook a bridle too. Look at the front rear of the wrangler frames, you will see a 1.5" long oval hole, with an extra plate on the frame around the hole. They are also on an angle, so the frame hooks can be inserted and not fall out while slack or under load. Once you start to look, you start to find the attachment points on all cars and trucks.

If you get a bridle, I reccomend you get them with 3ft legs. As some of the hook points are behind the engines/cradles. Even on pickup trucks, the best place it on the bottom of the frame, behind the front axle as it is the lowest point on the frame and will allow the chains to go under the bumper covers, oil pans, etc. This is also true for most front wheel drive cars. Just make sure your hooking to the right spot, and check further back for a better spot, and remember to visiualize whats gonna happen when you put tension on the rigging.

Is anything gonna get damaged? Dont jump the gun and just start hooking and tugging. Assess the situation, and look at it from all angles. Your point of view can change things completely. Understand that a recovery is a dynamic event. No matter how simple it may seem everything can change within a few inches of a tug. Think outside the box, dont just "tug and hope", use your surroundings and equipment to do it safe without causing anymore collateral damage to the vehicle or property.

AND ABOVE ALL, DO NOT BE AFRAID OR ASHAMED TO TURN DOWN A RECOVERY THAT YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT OR COMFORTABLE DOING. You are not an insured business. Let the pros handle anything you are not comfortable with. In doing "good semaritan" recoveries, in some states, you assume a certain amount liability for any and all damages incurred. FYI.

Also, the more you do it, the more you will learn about how these things work and what happens and how to do it. I have gained a bit experience in road side recoveries and trail recoveries. I have recovered an astro van that was on its roof in the median of a highway. With a properly placed winch cable attached to the driver side seatbelt (yes, the seat belt) it flopped right back onto its wheels. Little things you pick up along the way....