Hooking up my Badland Harbor freight 5k LB Winch - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-16-2017, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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Hooking up my Badland Harbor freight 5k LB Winch

Iím hooking up my Badland Harbor freight 5k LB Winch and have a question about the control buttons and cords. (Yes I know itís a crappy winch, but its all I could afford.) Iíve mounted it and Iím hooking it up to the battery and need to run the control lines. It came with two control buttons on two separate lines. One is for standing outside of the jeep and the other looks like its meant to be hooked up to the cab of the jeep. My question is, do you need both of them? And for the one thatís used outside, where did you drill into the tube to run the line outside?
Thanks for your time!

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post #2 of 11 Old 07-16-2017, 12:35 PM
Kruzin
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You only need one control or the other (or both)
I hope you're installing that on an ATV or trailer. 5k is entirely insufficient for a YJ. Rule of thumb is the winch should be rated at least 2x the curb weight of the vehicle. A YJ empty weighs in at almost 4k lbs. If you're loaded with gear, going uphill or stuck, suddenly that YJ pulls like it's 7-8k lbs.
If you try to winch a YJ with that puny winch, you're going to smoke it or worse, something will snap. It is horribly unsafe to use a winch that small on your Jeep. Take it back, and save up for a decent one or that one will become a large paper weight the first time you use it.

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post #3 of 11 Old 07-16-2017, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
BadWolf1925
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Okay sounds good. When i get a better one, where should i drill a hole in the tub for the outside control (which i'm more fond of than the inside one).
Also do you have a winch brand to recommend?
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-16-2017, 12:49 PM
Kruzin
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Warn is pretty much the go-to for most people who want a quality winch, but there are other decent brands out there.
I have the Warn VR1000 (10k lb), it's one of their more affordable models. It has a control box on it that you plug the remote into, no need to drill anything in the tub.

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post #5 of 11 Old 07-16-2017, 03:37 PM
Jerry Bransford
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X2 to the above comment warning you that a 5,000 lb. capacity winch is not enough for a Wrangler.

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post #6 of 11 Old 07-16-2017, 10:13 PM
armyRN
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If you can't afford a Warn Winch (they are nice, but not cheap), I'd recommend a Superwinch Tigershark 9500lb. They run right around $300, and come with a roller fairlead. We put one on the front of my buddy's ZJ.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-17-2017, 09:52 AM
cranbiz
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If you are really on a budget, the Harbor Freight 9000lb or 12000lb winches are OK. You can usually get the 9000lb one for under $240 and the 12000lb one for $289 when on sale.They are slow and can fail out of the box but if you get a good one, they work. I have a 9000lb on my JK, it works, so far and when it dies, I'll get a much better one. My Buddy put a 12000lb one on his trailer. Again, it gets used infrequently but it has worked every time he's needed it.

Oh, did I mention they are SLOW? To steal a line used here by a respected member, snails give me the finger as they pass me.

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-17-2017, 02:14 PM
biffgnar
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I've actually been on trails with a YJ with a UTV winch. Saw it do 1 or 2 easy pulls at a glacial pace. Anything tough I don't see how it would happen.

I'll second Superwinch as a good option. I bought a bit better one, but bought it as a choice instead of a Warn many years ago and have never regretted it.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-18-2017, 07:00 AM
jp360cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadWolf1925 View Post
Iím hooking up my Badland Harbor freight 5k LB Winch and have a question about the control buttons and cords...It came with two control buttons on two separate lines. One is for standing outside of the jeep and the other looks like its meant to be hooked up to the cab of the jeep.
That 5K winch is was intended to be used on an ATV/UTV. The controls weren't intended to be hooked up in a Jeep, it is meant to be mounted on the handlebars of an ATV. True automotive (Jeep/Truck) winches will usually mount the control to the winch and use a wired remote that plugs into the box. No need to run wires into the cab unless you just want/prefer in cab controls.

.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cranbiz View Post
If you are really on a budget, the Harbor Freight 9000lb or 12000lb winches are OK. You can usually get the 9000lb one for under $240 and the 12000lb one for $289 when on sale.They are slow and can fail out of the box but if you get a good one, they work. I have a 9000lb on my JK, it works, so far and when it dies, I'll get a much better one. My Buddy put a 12000lb one on his trailer. Again, it gets used infrequently but it has worked every time he's needed it.

Oh, did I mention they are SLOW? To steal a line used here by a respected member, snails give me the finger as they pass me.
^^This would also be recommendation for a budget. I'm not sure if a sale price, or regular price right now, but the 9K is listing at $289. There's also a 20% off coupon that will bring it down to just under $232. That's only $88 more than the 5K is currently listing for (with coupon). If you search the web, you might can find a 25% off coupon that's valid, although they are much rarer than they used to be and often only valid for 1 day or 1 weekend). No, HF winches aren't the best, but they are better than nothing (assuming they work). I ran a 9k on my '7 for a 4 or 5 years before switching to a Warn. That winch still works and is getting ready to go on a friend's Jeep. My only complaint on the HF was how slow it is. But I'd rather have a slow winch than no winch.

Another Option is to look for a used winch. The M8000 is a good winch and I often see them semi-local on CL for $250-300.

HF 20% off coupon (valid through 7/31/17)

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-18-2017, 08:49 AM
azzkicker
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You can make it a 10K with half the reach for $16 if you're really trying to save money (a snatch block, linked below at amazon). Carry an extra 100ft of 10,000 pound cable and 20ft of chain. Since you already have it mounted, play with it, burn it up, whatever. I recommend you put the control where you can see the winch. I always like to be able to watch how it's feeding in, but I do sometimes need to hit the button from the driver's seat so I can inch forward with the wheels too. It's best to have more than one person, but that's not always an option.
Warn is the gold standard for reliable winching, but as noted they are not cheap. I run an M8000s, and they're about $800, but the standard M8000 is $585 and linked below. The M8000 has been my go-to winch since about 1980, and they run and run. Even without a snatch block, it has been very effective for me on rigs as big as a 1-ton diesel, and I pulled a semi out of a snow bank once by chaining my CJ5 to a tree (I nearly made it a CJ7, but the winch did it). I always have a hi-lift too, so I jack the rig up over problems more than winch through boulders and stumps. I tend to build tension, then work the wheels, shovel, or jack until it creeps, then tighten the cable again. Other people treat the winch like an elevator button, and thatís how you break cables and rip out axles. Spend some time on youtube watching people break cables, then figure out what they could have done differently to lessen the load.
I recommend you buy Warn winches and snatch blocks, but it sounds like that would put too much strain on your budget. The VR line is Warn's cheap version, and therefore not as bulletproof as the standard Warn, but I assume it's much better than the harbor freight.
If you're buying a cheap winch, I recommend you get it at a store you can easily return it to, then test it before you mount it. They have a substantial rate of failure right out of the box. Ordering online means you have to mail it back if it quits.
You should also carry a good cumalong as a backup and to pull in directions other than forward. If you can't afford a good one, you can buy a cheap one and fix it yourself. If you buy the one in the link below for $45, replace the critical bolts with grade 8, as big as the ones it came with. That would be the bolt through the drum (spray white lithium in there while you have the drum out), the bolt through the two drive pawls, and the one through the little holding latch.
Also carefully inspect that latch, and make sure it engages well toward the 5 oíclock position. Iíve gotten cheap ones where those bolts bend, and the latch hole was too far back, engaging the drum too near 3 oíclock, which let heavy loads push it by and release. I have two Iíve spruced up as above, and drilled new holes to move that latch to where it has the best mechanical advantage (as close to 6 oíclock as you get full engagement).
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Recover...s=snatch+block
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02256A-...words=cumalong
https://www.amazon.com/WARN-26502-M8...keywords=M8000

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post #11 of 11 Old 07-18-2017, 09:02 AM
azzkicker
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As for where to bring wires into the cabin, my default is always the firewall, and try to find an existing grommet, or put in your own. I like to seal the holes with foam or just non-hardening caulk. Since your winch is likely to be temporary, I'd probably Jerry rig the button at least until you decide it's going to stay. If you're running your own wire, maybe make a little spool that could reach from the cab, out the window, and to where you can see the winch. Then you could use something like a velcro strap to hang it up under the dash. That way, you have one button that you can use from the driver's seat or out by the winch.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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