Homemade snorkel issue?? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 46 Old 04-20-2012, 05:54 AM
doyll
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IMHO putting air intake at bottom of windshield in inviting disaster. Anyone who's done serious fording has had water on / over hood.


1997 ZJ 4.0, 42re, 242, 3.73, tow hooks, reciever hitch, skids, OBA, F>R lift, Rancho 9000s, Addco 1.25", JKS discos, 265/75r MTs on stock wheels, 99+ intake, Banks look-alike header, sliders,

NEED: adjustable upper front control arms, front track bar frame bracket for JKS/RE bar, adjustable rear track bar, Addco rear sway bar, winch
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post #32 of 46 Old 04-20-2012, 09:19 AM
paulyboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eklayman View Post
This might sound dumb but you should stick a large box onto the roof , and for god's sake stick lead weights in it. Change the gears to like 6.10 and stick a large grappling hook off of you rear bumper. Don't be afraid to put on some 61" bloggers and hell, while we are both being stupid why don't you put on another crappy cheap snorkel. Honest opinion? DIY is great for people who Know tons about their cars already. So go to a jeep mechanic and ask him to stick a snorkel on.
Someone got piss in there cheerios this morning huh?
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post #33 of 46 Old 04-20-2012, 09:27 AM
paulyboy
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And on another note if these were priced reasonably Im sure no one would bother to make one. Im sorry I cant justify paying almost 500 bucks for one. For that kind of money you could do other better mods you cant make DIY. And they added 400 dollars to my jeep when I totaled it for my "crappy cheap snorkel"......
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post #34 of 46 Old 04-22-2012, 02:20 PM
RacerX
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Flex-pipe

You need stiffer pipe maybe rubber, plastic..? I bet when you rev the engine you can see that pipe trying to collapse!

go start it up and look.

also try disconnecting it and go with stock filter for a week or so.
and look at it under hood when you rev the engine

4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." - Thomas Jefferson
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post #35 of 46 Old 04-22-2012, 08:30 PM
paulyboy
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yeah rigid pipe the way to go in fact I want to get exhaust pipe or aluminum tube welded up for mine to replace the pvc. Im sure one really good hit from a tree and its gone. It is semi durable tho as little hits and branches didnt break it yet......
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post #36 of 46 Old 04-23-2012, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
fawr
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the clear tubing is the vent lines from the axle and tranny, didn't see any reason why they shouldn't be breathing fresh clean air and I needed a watertight place to route them above the hood... so I just stuck 'em there.

As for the hater - I do know quite a bit about cars and DIY things, I did it because I could and I wanted to do it. DIY sometimes involves breaking things and asking questions....that's how you learn, and become an expert.

Cheers!

p.s. I also installed the aux 32gallon fuel tank in the bed, with a 12v transfer pump and ran the switch to the dashboard. After taking it for a test drive this weekend and looking at the data from the ODBII- I'm getting avg 13.5 -14.5 mpg. That's 634 miles before refueling - Amarillo by morning!
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post #37 of 46 Old 04-23-2012, 02:48 PM
rdsk8ter
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got pics of the tank I have considered doing something similar in thinking

here is my build threads

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f104/randys-offroad-trailer-1164102/
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post #38 of 46 Old 04-23-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
fawr
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It's a RJS racing tank (amazon for ~150$). Piped it through the fender using male and female electrical conduits to prevent chaffing and filled with silicone inside and out to waterproof. Tied into the factory filler neck by taking out a 6-8" section and putting a 1 1/14" brass fitting that has a 3/4" "T" that runs to the aux tank. Tied the aux vent line to the factory with another "T". While I was under there I extended the rear diff vent line inside the roll bar, all the way to the top and sealed it with silicone (the hole not the vent line). Bought a 12v fuel transfer pump from Amazon and wired the switch to the dash. The xfer transfer pump was the hardest to find cheap. No smell from the tank on a 75+ mile trip.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

and

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

A few things to consider:
make sure the xfer pump can handle gas
do you really want 32 gallons of gas inside the cabin in an accident?
make sure your connections are solid, any leak with throw an error code.
What shape tank do you want? they come in all sizes.

P.s. that flex line is pretty solid stuff, automotive grade and built for air intakes... I'm not seeing it collapse when under hard vacuum.BTW- The snorkel now makes a deep, throaty sucking sound when you goose it and you can definitely hear the engine all the time through the pipe.
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post #39 of 46 Old 04-23-2012, 11:42 PM
RacerX
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I pulled out my Pos+ wire to starter and start relay
cleaned it up, soldered the relay wire where it had a weak connection, and marine shrink-wraped all the connetions and ends.
Attached Thumbnails
P1060176 Batt Cables.jpg   P1060177 Batt cbl.jpg  

4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." - Thomas Jefferson
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post #40 of 46 Old 04-24-2012, 12:11 AM
codymiguel
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been thinking about this mod my self and have been looking into the plastic cold air intake tubing they sell part by part at auto zone. Only thing I have a little filter on my carb with no box or other way of air intake. Think i can maybe take that off and somehow attach a tube to it. Any tips ?
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post #41 of 46 Old 04-24-2012, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
fawr
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That's exactly what I used, spectre racing air intake flex-hose, 19.99 at autozone, comes with two hose clamps and coupling sleeve. I suggest spending some time at Home Depot or whatever the local hardware store is.. in the plumbing section and next aisle over in the gas/brass/hose fittings section. I would suggest no less than 3" diam on all your breathing pipes, and like they said above, make as much of it as straight as possible. OR Go to the auto parts store and ask them to look at breather hoses, find one in your diam with the bend you need and cut to fit. Plumbing elbows and fittings are 1-5$ and Automotive hoses are 11-45$. Your call good luck picking!
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post #42 of 46 Old 01-16-2014, 07:24 AM
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post #43 of 46 Old 01-18-2014, 12:40 AM
uberxj92
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I built mine out of 3" PVC . Removed stock air box. Used a boat battery box from Walmart and used a 6" k& n filter in it. Mounted the new air box on the roof in my rack. I have the intake pointed forward so when driving it helps push in air. My mpgs went from 12-13 to 13.5 avg. Use thus on all 3 of my rigs. Built 4 total for about the price if a single safari brand.
O yea I also did as above with all if the breathers for front axle, tranny, tcase, and distributor. I am testing the iat sensor relocation theory now.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/92-xj-sadness-2075657/index2.html
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post #44 of 46 Old 01-19-2014, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
fawr
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IAT sensor? whats that?

I gave up and traded in the '06. too many transmission issues.

I bought a 2013 and just got done installing the rugged ridge modular snorkel... about to crawl under the jeepers and look for vent lines. Something noteworthy - they changed the fans out to electric fans, at least I don't have to do that!

BW
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post #45 of 46 Old 01-19-2014, 11:55 AM
Indy
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Intake air temperature

I'm the only gay eskimo.
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