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Unread 07-20-2013, 08:06 AM   #1
RowJ
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Home Made 'Tree Saver'

Had some 3 strand, 1" line so I though I would save some money and practice splicing.....
a skill set I have not used for many years.
Made an 8' Tree Saver for winching.
With the help of this WEB SITE, suggested by Blaine Johnson, a simple 'Eye Splice' worked out well, IMO.

Thanks to amazing web sites like this, anyone can do line splicing.......

tree-saver-1-.-3-strand-splice.jpg

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Unread 07-20-2013, 08:38 AM   #2
Nbonney5413
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I've often wondered how a wrap 3 pull 2 would work for off road with 1" tubular webbing. I'm gonna talk to a buddy I forget the rating of it.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 08:50 AM   #3
Nbonney5413
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Ok so I've been stuck in bed for a month pretty much or at least in the house ( broken shoulder in 4 places 13 screws and a plate makes it impossible to drive a regular car almost let alone my stick XJ) seems a wrap 3 pull 2 that we use for rescue work anchors is rated at roughly 16k pounds so if you were to use two and clip off that would be 32k roughly and the uses and amount of strap space needed is small compared to some of the stuff we use. But I know the safety factor isn't as high. Just throwing numbers out there I'm bored. What do you guys think? Wouldn't work due to safety rating but I carry 50 feet of webbing At least in my jeep all the time cause I love that stuff it's so useful for camping and such. So in a mind it would be an option I suppose.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 09:28 AM   #4
armyRN
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The purpose of a tree saver strap is to spread the load across a wide area - like a couple inches at least so it doesn't dig into the tree and ultimately kill it. Your rope thing doesn't qualify as a tree saver strap.

This is more like what a tree saver strap looks like:
tree-saver-strap.jpg

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Unread 07-20-2013, 09:43 AM   #5
biffgnar
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Looks like something that could still dig into the tree so better than a cable being pulled across the bark, but question the "saving" going on.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 10:47 AM   #6
RowJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
....This is more like what a tree saver strap looks like:
Thanks for the education....
If you search the web, you will see several brands are only 2" wide.
Would I be so far off with a 1" line wrapped twice, or three times, around a tree??
And if need be, I will cover it.
This was a "lets see if this will work" project! It may not?
But spending $25-40.00 plus shipping for an 8' piece of 2" strap bugs me!!
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Unread 07-20-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
RowJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nbonney5413 View Post
I've often wondered how a wrap 3 pull 2 would work for off road with 1" tubular webbing.
I can see no reason why 'wrap 3, pull 2' it would not work perfectly.

And so far as 1" rope "digging into the tree and ultimately kill it" goes, I think that is absurd!
Trees survive much worse than a cable scrapping off the bark and even digging in a bit!

BUT - I do subscribe to "Thread Lightly" and believe in leaving no footprint behind, whenever possible.
I will do whatever needs doing to achieve that with this "saver".

My real problem is, I've never used one so have no experience!!
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Unread 07-20-2013, 03:50 PM   #8
wilson1010
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Its nice to see splicing done right on a poly boat rope, but that is not usable as a tree saver. The 4" strap looped at both ends polyester shown above is the tool for the job. Although, the one shown is far too short for my liking. And, many times, the tree saver needs to be wrapped so that the tied off rig can be released from the tree. I would not want to handle that rope under a load. And, that poly rope will kill someone's tree in a single pull. One cut through the bark will kill many trees.

But, good job on the splicing.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 03:53 PM   #9
Nbonney5413
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Guys you do realize to kill a tre you need to pretty much cut through the green outterish layer almost all the way around right? Not just one side. I agree that isn't a " tree saver" but one mark doesn't kill a tree
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Unread 07-20-2013, 04:54 PM   #10
BlueRubiconrich
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don't be cheap just buy a tree saver.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 05:19 PM   #11
wilson1010
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Every cut in the phloem layer will damage the tree. Even a partial arc. True, it usually takes 50% around the tree to kill it right away, but we are trying not to damage the tree at all. Not just keep from killing it.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 06:22 PM   #12
RowJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
.... many times, the tree saver needs to be wrapped so that the tied off rig can be released from the tree. I would not want to handle that rope under a load.....But, good job on the splicing.
Could you better explain.......... and thanks!
Also, would 1" Hemp (3 strand) be more suitable? I assumed not strong enough. Don't quite understand the problem with Poly... other than that it stinks for splicing!
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Unread 07-21-2013, 07:08 AM   #13
CoastieShep
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A section of 2" fire hose would be much better actually.
I wouldn't use hemp. It can rot and weaken, especially if it gets wet or dirty and not cleaned and dried properly.
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Unread 07-21-2013, 07:41 AM   #14
wilson1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ View Post
Could you better explain.......... and thanks!
Also, would 1" Hemp (3 strand) be more suitable? I assumed not strong enough. Don't quite understand the problem with Poly... other than that it stinks for splicing!
I assume that you have a thimble for the splicing. That is a nylon tube with a closed pointy end that you stick the end of the poly into th eopen end and use the pointy end to weave into the wrapped strands going upstream, right?

It makes it very easy and poly is wonderful because it is so stretchy.

Here is a nice video that shows one way to do it.


PS: I went back and looked at the "eye splice" link you posted. You deserve a kudo for having the patience to do it that way. I can tell you that no one I know has that much patience and I think the video I posted makes a better looking end loop.

_______________________________________________




As for your question about a tree strap. There are a lot of uses for a tree strap but much of the time, a rig with a winch is tying itself off to pull someone else out of the muck or up the hillside as opposed to winching itself. this is because when you are off road with 12 guys, three of them have winches and 9 do not. But, a rig cannot extract someone from a bad spot if it is not tied off. So here we go, pointing the recovery vehicle down hill, then extending the winch cable to the stuck rig in the creek bed, and we are tied off from behind to a tree. When we get all done, and the rig is extracted, there we are on an awful hill, pointed down hill and tied to a tree. Can we put her in reverse and get the pressure off the tree strap and disconnect? I dunno. Depends. We want to be able to release the recovery rig from the tree under pressure. So, when we tie off to the tree, we take the flat poly strap and wrap it a few times around the tree and have someone hold the end and if we need to more forward a little, the person with the strap lets her go a little. If we are done and want to get outta there, we disconnect the strap and head down hill until we can turn around.

Here is a photo which illustrates this principle. (PS - that hill is a lot steeper than it looks. the stuck rig is a locked Wrangler on 35's).

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Unread 07-21-2013, 08:12 AM   #15
RowJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
I assume that you have a thimble for the splicing.
No thimble, spike nor Fid!
Used a Ball point pen.
Great pic and explanation. Get it.... Thanks.
First pic I've seen in a long time that gives at least some feel for the steepness!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRubiconrich View Post
don't be cheap just buy a tree saver.
Beginning to look like good advice..... but as a result of this thread, I have a much better idea what to get. Longer....and 2" works fine. In fact, have a 20', 2" in my truck I'm moving to the Jeep!

RJ
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