I'll add that, when I eventually get a winch, I'm keeping the HiLift set-up. Winching from the front is not always the best option, and is sometimes not even an option. Also, If you're really hung up on an underwater, hidded-by-loose-mud stump that has already bent a lower control arm, you will need the HiLift and a winch -- yes, I make getting stuck an art form.
[URL="http://www.mobilejeepclubonline.com/phpBB3"]Mobile Jeep Club[/URL]
HEAVY (5080 lbs) '06 LJ (aka: Carla) - 33.0x10.5x15 BFG KM2's;Savvy 1.25" body lift, Savvy 1" motor mount lift, ZJ V8 front springs; Moog CC623 (Caprice wagon) rear springs; Daystar 1 1/2" front spacers; Skyjacker Nitro 8000 shocks; Currie front UCA's, LCA's, & Currie fr. track bar, Savvy Al rear UCA's, Currie rear LCA's; Savvy Al UA (tummy tuck), Lockrite D30 fr. locker, Mountain Garage NP231HD w/JB Conversions SYE, Tatton double cardan rear driveshaft, Novak shifter linkage; Savvy Al gas tank skid; Brooks Custom Concepts rock rails; Bestop HighRock front bumper (junk); Dirtworx rear bumper/swingout; Four X Doctor F&R diff. guards; Currie front LCA skids, Currie HD steering, Currie antirock fr. sway bar; Tuffy security drawer, Warn 8000 winch, and more than 200 lbs of tools and recovery gear.
The Hi-Lift can be a great tool. Jacking, winching, stablizing, etc... My buddy was busted on Moab Rim last year. We had to rebuild his rear D35 right there. There was no other way to get out. We used two Hi-lifts, one bottle jack, and one scissor jack to stablize the Jeep the best we could and went to work.
Scary to say the least. We wedged enough rock under the front end to stabilize it, used one HL to lift the rear, one to support laterally, and the bottle and scissor under the spring perches for redundancy. When things break, you are in a bad spot almost by definition. You must fix it to get it out or in places like Moab Rim...pay for a helicopter lift?