[MuDD OlllllllO]

Longspoon, have you permanently wired yours up? If so, how did you do it? Do you have pics of that?

Looks really good!

[Toltecatl]

Originally Posted by MuDD OlllllllO

Longspoon, have you permanently wired yours up? If so, how did you do it? Do you have pics of that?

Looks really good!

I hard wired mine. Just cut off the alligator clips that come with it and crimp some battery terminals on the ends, then hook the + to the batt, and ground the neg right by the mounting location...

[MuDD OlllllllO]

Originally Posted by Toltecatl

I hard wired mine. Just cut off the alligator clips that come with it and crimp some battery terminals on the ends, then hook the + to the batt, and ground the neg right by the mounting location...

Cool. I just don't know a darn thing about auto electrical stuff, but was worried about it drawing down the battery. I will do that!

[Toltecatl]

Originally Posted by MuDD OlllllllO

Cool. I just don't know a darn thing about auto electrical stuff, but was worried about it drawing down the battery. I will do that!

Make sure you keep the in-line fuse that comes with it. try putting it as close as possible to the battery terminal

[XabuJr]

Originally Posted by MuDD OlllllllO

Cool. I just don't know a darn thing about auto electrical stuff, but was worried about it drawing down the battery. I will do that!

As long as it's off, it should be fine. When you're running it, you should be fine to air up all 4 w/o the Jeep running. It takes a lot less than a winch.

[MuDD OlllllllO]

Awesome! I am going to mount it on the driver's side fender just behind the wiper fluid container. It is the highest point I could find that it would fit under the hood still. That way it will be very well protected in water crossings and rain. I will post pics... hopefully tomorrow night.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[XabuJr]

Ok, as stated, pics from my repair attempt.

First I thought it was just dirty, this is after a year of use:







I cleaned it up nice and pretty and regreased:




Though when it still didn't work properly I pulled everything out of the motor:



The wires all looked ok, not dirty, sealed pretty good there. Not a lot of dings on the magnets on it. However, looking inside the ring:



And that's why the motor can't reach the power needed to air up tires. It appears w/ the heat and spinning of the motor, it was able to heat the glue up enough to pull the magnet off just enough to disrupt the current needed for optimum operation.

So try and keep that thing out of the dirt and maybe the occasional cleaning, you don't have to clean the motor, I'd recommend the piston however.

[Longspoon]

I haven't hard wired it up yet. Unfortunately I am a noob when it comes to automotive stuff, so I am still trying to learn.

eventually though, I'd like to run the wiring into my fusebox and mount a switch and pressure gauge inside. That will require two things, finding some instruction that could help me with that, and understanding what I find...

got my fingers crossed...

As far as protecting it from wetness, I was hoping to fashion something like a shower cap to cover the whole thing. It would have to be heat and water resistant, but still pliable enough to get it bunched enough to hold onto the tray... Does anyone have any ideas?

[MuDD OlllllllO]

Ok, so I mounted it to the top of my drivers side fender, just under the hood. It fits within a millimeter or two of touching the underside of the hood! My hope is that it will be high enough to not get wet, as there are plenty of other electrical components right around it.






The hose reaches easily to all four tires and could probably reach to a buddy's rig if necessary. I plan on replacing the gauge and one day upgrading to standard fittings. But for now, it is trail ready!

As you can see, I also hardwired it to the battery and kept the inline fuse. Thanks for the help everyone! I will post more feedback on it as I use it.

[Mr.B]

Hey 4 Wheel Parts sells them now. I was in the store here in Sac. and they had them on the floor. I didn't ask the price, but they where the MV50.

[FPKites]

I seem to remember that 4WP gets $69 or so for them. At least that's how they had them labeled at their TruckFest this year.

[KennyTJ]

The on-off switch on the end of the unit will "pop-out". look at the wiring hook-up on the back of that switch, you can cut the wires at the switch and run them inside the cab to a dash mounted switch, or you can run new wires in parallel, tapped in at the unit's switch. This will give you remote on-off but the compressor will only shut off with a pressure switch in the loop. You can get one at Grainger, wire it in series closest to the motor leads. It gets mounted on the output of the compressor you can use a close nipple and plumb it right in. This will shut off the compressor at a pre-set psi. Set the unit for 30psi. (or whatever psi you like to run) hook-up the compressor, when it shuts off your good.

I can probably get some pics this weekend, no promises, have crazy work schedule, but I'll see what I can do.

[notch4u]

what is the most PSI people are seeing with these things?

just curious @ what it could fill a reserve tank up to.

[FmrVette]

Originally Posted by MuDD OlllllllO

Ok, so I mounted it to the top of my drivers side fender, just under the hood. It fits within a millimeter or two of touching the underside of the hood! As you can see, I also hardwired it to the battery and kept the inline fuse. Thanks for the help everyone! I will post more feedback on it as I use it.

Quick question - after running the Jeep for a bit, how hot does the compressor get? If it doesn't get massively hot and cause premature failure or interfere with the airflow under the hood I may have to get the checkbook out .

[Cannon]

My $0.02, Had a buddy pick up the Costco Mod 1052 on 27Jul07 for $45 +tax. Said there was three pallets, but only one pallet had them remaining. Since then I've:
-Trimmed the on/off switch clear plastic cover with a razor blade (mold overflow) & glued in place.
-Tinned/soldered & waterproofed the wires-all.
-Switched out the plastic grommet that retains the cable wires into the casing with a threaded exterior grade cable plug. (prevent from ripping out & mosture).
-Placed larger washers on the above plastic cover end under the allen screws. (Larger surface contact to fasten cover assembly). Oh, and lock washers too.
-Tinned, soldered Smaller/beefier clamps. (the copper brass upgrade - but I'll keep an eye out for quick disconnects in future, or tie into the 100 or 300amp fuses installed for light & winch sys).
-Attached indust velcro about cables (to retain/avoid tangling/neater package).
-Replaced psi gauge with an oil filled one. (i had one layin around-this was not necessary though, as prev posts explain, shut the sys off and get an accurate reading).
-Replaced chi-com male air fitting with: 1/4 npt pipe to a 3 in 1 T that has a 1/4 npt female; a 3/8 npt female; & the third plugged up for now 'till find a tank, then the plugged fitting will get an adjustable regulator.
-Had a quick disco chuck (clipless) given to me.
-Attached some small hard plastic ear protection size boxes inside the case (and waterproofed the case) to hold small attachments/extra fuses.
Still to do:
-Poly/Neo coiled hose vs the brittle in the cold hose that comes.

I'd say worth the initial $45, and the tools were already on hand (solder gun/etape/mars/teflon tape/extra 30amp fuses/etc...) so add about 2hrs of fiddlin/tinkering around & another $12 in fittings. BUT will be another$10+?? when buy a better coiled hose most likely.
Oh, and had to tighten down the cylinder heads 4 allen screws.

Can someone reaaaaly convince me that a permanent install under the hood is the way to go? I can't figure out a foolproof way to keep it clean/minimum maintenance if it goes there.

Thanx X_Jr for the pics, took :10 min for my 46kb download though to finally see em!!!

11AUG07 Update.
-Triple checked the relay soldered connections (re: XaBurJr post #159).
-Friend picked up the slime gauge, (fancy brass face so $5.99 vs $3), and took the slime stem/defator and threaded without mod'ing onto the old 0-160psi gauge and threw it at me for turnin him on to this deal.
-Reminder. Pay attention to what model you're lookin at. MF1050/1052 is the major player.
-Contents Added to the pouch/pocket: deflator/stem repair kit; extra needles; former gauge (modded).
15AUG07 Update.
-More folks are buyin the lesser model. Check the specs on this post!!!.
-5+ folks commenting on the factory wire job. Even if not going to mod the wiring, pull off the 4 allen head screws and inspect the connections to the relay. If anything, to spend $.99 on a roll of e-tape and add some moisture insurance.