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View Poll Results: Myth or fiction - D35's don't hold up?
Off Road with factory D35 (LSD or locked) and No Problems 70 57.38%
OFf Road w/ D35 (LSD or locked) with Chrome Moly axle shafts and No Problems 17 13.93%
Off Road with Super D35, and No Problems 10 8.20%
Have broken axle shafts when off road with D35 rear axle 22 18.03%
Have broken axle shafts when off road with D35 and chrome moly axle shafts 2 1.64%
Have broken axle shafts when off road with Superf 35 Kit 1 0.82%
Voters: 122. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 09-27-2012, 04:25 AM   #46
little_Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two_much_talk View Post
I was just considering the two situations I posted.

Leaf Sprung axle: its super easy and cheap to swap a non c-clip D35. and I've had really really good luck with them. I would also contend that they are somehow stronger. haven't put much thought to it, just havn't broke one or heard of a non c-clip breaking near as often as a c-clip D35.

Coil Sprung axle: the head ache and cost associated with all the brackets needed isn't worth my time or money.





D35 vs 8.8 vs D60: now this I haven't heard before? What level of "built" 8.8 are we talking? and for the record, I'd be no more happy with the 8.8 being c-clip as I would be the D35.

For me - I see the Super 35 kit as being easier and cheaper in the long run. It provides the desired outcome of running 35's with confidence in a straight forward manner, that's all. And most people that want to run bigger tires (that I run into) usually go to a D44 or D60.

.
Are you saying that an 8.8 is no better than a D35 because it is an axle that uses C clips? Trust me, the size and strength of the 8.8 axle shats, c clips, etc. in the 8.8 compared to the D35 is like comparing a truck axle to a Yogo axle.

The Super 35 kit still does not address all the weak links in a D35.. You have small axle tubes, brackets made from metal from a coke can, and drum brakes. Sure, you can toss $$$ at these issues, but when you are done tossing money at a D35, you still have a D35.

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Unread 09-27-2012, 07:29 AM   #47
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Snapped a 35 shaft at Badlands in Attica, IN on a sandy/damp wall climb. I lost momentum and started to slide back down. Got to the bottom and the shaft let go. I was running a Detroit TrueTrac, stock shafts and 31s at the time.

I quickly swapped it out for a D44a out a V8 WJ. No problems since, even with the locker.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 10:51 AM   #48
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I snapped a stock D35 shaft trying to get up a mud/rock climb in my '03 4.0L TJ. T-case = 2.32:1, diff = 3.73:1, tires = 31", and a Powertrax No-Slip. Removed the Powertrax, replaced stock shaft and wheeled harder for the last 2 years with no further issues.
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Unread 10-04-2012, 02:40 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ View Post
Open 35 is not an option for any off roading more than a drive in the woods or across a field.
2012-05-23_16-29-24_429.jpg   2012-05-23_16-30-37_796.jpg  
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Unread 10-11-2012, 06:33 AM   #50
two_much_talk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little_Jeep View Post
Are you saying that an 8.8 is no better than a D35 because it is an axle that uses C clips? Trust me, the size and strength of the 8.8 axle shats, c clips, etc. in the 8.8 compared to the D35 is like comparing a truck axle to a Yogo axle.
from a cost/time/energy stand point, yes. if you convert an 8.8 to run in a ZJ or TJ you would be better off starting with a non c-clip axle. unless you never plan to go over a 35" tire then its a almost a wash depending who's doing the swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by little_Jeep View Post
The Super 35 kit still does not address all the weak links in a D35.. You have small axle tubes, brackets made from metal from a coke can, and drum brakes. Sure, you can toss $$$ at these issues, but when you are done tossing money at a D35, you still have a D35.
I realize the Super 35 kits doesn't address all the axles weaknesses but the ones that are left are cheap and easy to fix if you have the means to do the 8.8 swap yourself.

I'm looking at what you would have to put into each option vs what you get out of it. An 8.8 just isn't the best way to go if your planning an axle swap. I'd start with a non c-clip axle, especially if you plan to beat on your rig. there are just too many non c-clip axles for the same money that would be better in the long run.

of coarse everyone has their own opinion and direction they want to go and that's kool too.

I've retyped this too many times trying to get it right... I gotta get to bed... if your considering what to do about your D35 problems and want to discuss further pm me and we can go from there...
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Unread 10-11-2012, 06:41 AM   #51
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I know 2 people that have locked up 35's with chromoly's. They climb some crazy stuff for 35" tire rigs but they do not go heavy on the pedal. No breakages yet.
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Unread 10-11-2012, 07:20 AM   #52
little_Jeep
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I'm totally confused by what you say. A "C" clip or lack of them, does NOT effect the axle strength. The "C" clips do NOT fail causing the axle to fail. The axle fails, and the "C" clips are just part of the carnage. However, the important part is the axle is done/toasted/exploded BEFORE the "C" clips are an issue. If you have disc brakes like the 1996 + Exploder axles do, there is NO axle shaft walk after everything in the diff explodes so the "C" clips are a totally moot issue.

Switching from a D35 to a non 8.8 axle is always an option. However, you open other can of worms such as lug nut bolt pattern (8.8 is same as TJ), hence a need to carry two spares instead of one, and you may lose the ability/desire to dd your Jeep because of the wider axles under it. Depending upon the axle, you could be talking about a lot more $$ to convert them. D44 axles from a Rubicon will bolt into a TJ, but not a ZJ. The ZJ & Rubicon use different bolt patterns, and the Rubicon axles are typically hard to find, and way over priced for what you get, when you do find them.

Everyone has an opinion, and each owner needs to do whatever they think works best for them. However, making this decision based upon "C" clip versus non "C" clip isn't the way to go.





Quote:
Originally Posted by two_much_talk View Post
from a cost/time/energy stand point, yes. if you convert an 8.8 to run in a ZJ or TJ you would be better off starting with a non c-clip axle. unless you never plan to go over a 35" tire then its a almost a wash depending who's doing the swap.



I realize the Super 35 kits doesn't address all the axles weaknesses but the ones that are left are cheap and easy to fix if you have the means to do the 8.8 swap yourself.

I'm looking at what you would have to put into each option vs what you get out of it. An 8.8 just isn't the best way to go if your planning an axle swap. I'd start with a non c-clip axle, especially if you plan to beat on your rig. there are just too many non c-clip axles for the same money that would be better in the long run.

of coarse everyone has their own opinion and direction they want to go and that's kool too.

I've retyped this too many times trying to get it right... I gotta get to bed... if your considering what to do about your D35 problems and want to discuss further pm me and we can go from there...
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Unread 10-11-2012, 07:25 AM   #53
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ive never broken my dana 35 but when i did my engine swap i just didnt want to risk it so i swapped it out for something bigger
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Unread 10-11-2012, 02:51 PM   #54
two_much_talk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little_Jeep View Post
I'm totally confused by what you say. A "C" clip or lack of them, does NOT effect the axle strength. The "C" clips do NOT fail causing the axle to fail. The axle fails, and the "C" clips are just part of the carnage. However, the important part is the axle is done/toasted/exploded BEFORE the "C" clips are an issue. If you have disc brakes like the 1996 + Exploder axles do, there is NO axle shaft walk after everything in the diff explodes so the "C" clips are a totally moot issue.
I thought the c-clip and overall axle strength was a moot point? The c-clip isn't what breaks. Not sure why this keeps coming up? The axle shafts break first. The c-clip design doesn't come into play untill that point. The 8.8 trumps the D35 in overall strength hands down. Are we on the same page so far? This is not my point of saying I likely won't ever do another 8.8 swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by little_Jeep View Post
Switching from a D35 to a non 8.8 axle is always an option. However, you open other can of worms such as lug nut bolt pattern (8.8 is same as TJ), hence a need to carry two spares instead of one, and you may lose the ability/desire to dd your Jeep because of the wider axles under it. Depending upon the axle, you could be talking about a lot more $$ to convert them. D44 axles from a Rubicon will bolt into a TJ, but not a ZJ. The ZJ & Rubicon use different bolt patterns, and the Rubicon axles are typically hard to find, and way over priced for what you get, when you do find them.
factoring in if you want to change lug pattern is an important point. that and bracket difference between a TJ/ZJ is probably why I hear of more ZJs go to an 8.8 vs a D44. (considering they don't go fullsize and are scared of the D44a)

please explain the bolt pattern difference from a D44 out of a Rubicon and a ZJ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by little_Jeep View Post
Switching from a D35 to a non 8.8 axle is always an option. However, you open other can of worms such as lug nut bolt pattern (8.8 is same as TJ), hence a need to carry two spares instead of one, and you may lose the ability/desire to dd your Jeep because of the wider axles under it. Depending upon the axle, you could be talking about a lot more $$ to convert them. D44 axles from a Rubicon will bolt into a TJ, but not a ZJ. The ZJ & Rubicon use different bolt patterns, and the Rubicon axles are typically hard to find, and way over priced for what you get, when you do find them.
The cost and energy of doing the axle swap at all is the point of view I've been trying to emphasize from the beginning. If you gotta do an axle swap the first question you have to ask is : Who's gonna do it? Then you move on to the other questions like, what gears do you want to run? are you gonna upgrade it with a truss, chromo shafts or diff cover? does it have to have disc brakes? what's the initial cost of the donor axle? how easy is it to get parts for the donor axle? full size or not? etc etc etc

If you are gonna have someone else do it your cost goes up dramatically. (i realize this is obvious but some reading this may need to be walked through the mental process) I can do all the fab work, welding etc in my pole barn so that's the point of view I'm taking because I can't speak for someone else.

Next, if I have to set up all the brackets on an axle then an 8.8 isn't even on my radar when 9" or D60 can be had easily and with much more potential for upgrades in the future. If your not willing to switch bolt patterns (but still willing to swap in all the axle brackets) then your options are limited. 8.8, D44a, Rubi D44, non c-clip D35, 8.25, the even more rare 5on4.5 jeep D44. These are all better than c-clip D35 but still just little axles limited at 35" tire. (I know I included the non c-clip D35. For those that run them, they'll understand why I included it. For those that haven't run one either transcend the internet bully's or simply forget I included it.)

I've done plenty of axle swaps. From welded non c-clip D35s in an 87 XJ on 33s to the fully tricked out 14blt in my TJ on 40" stickies. All builds/swaps had a well thought out plan and purpose.

This is taking too long, I simply have to get ready for work . . . . if someone readying this is serious about an axle swap in the near future just pm or call me and we can talk. 616-886-0046 Without all the factors we're just throwing around uneducated opinions anyway.
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Unread 12-01-2012, 06:58 PM   #55
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Keep them coming (on the Poll) please.
Would like at least 100 replys to have a valid sampling.

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Unread 01-15-2013, 11:36 AM   #56
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I broke the pinion gear on mine. Hadn't been off road in 2 months when it let loose. 4 cyl (#2) and 33s open
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Unread 01-15-2013, 11:38 AM   #57
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broke my spider gears on the street with 33 inch tires. wasn't abusing it either
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Unread 01-15-2013, 02:22 PM   #58
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I'm not surprised to hear of them breaking on road. Not a lot of slip on the street. Power + grip = broken d35
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Unread 01-15-2013, 03:03 PM   #59
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I rebuilt my all original, 136,000 mile D35 to a super 35 when I went to 4.56's. I thought about doing an 8.8, but the cost associated with it didn't make sense for my purpose.
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Unread 01-15-2013, 07:07 PM   #60
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i have beat the stock D35 in my 95 ZJ like a red headed step child on 31" tractor tires up to 34" swampers and never once has it let me down. IMO the axle has a worse rep than it deserves. sure, its not the best axle but many on here treat it like if you even think about wheeling with one it will self implode.
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