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Unread 02-24-2003, 08:04 PM   #16
jeep4fishing
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Just installed a BDS spring spacer (2") on Judge B's TJ this last weekend. Smooth and easy.

1. Spring compressors (get the ones for struts, the outside ones)
Even though you don't necessarily need them, they made the job A LOT easier. If you do use them don't take the spring off first then compress them. Use the floor jack and cram the axle as far up as you can get it then attach the compressor. When you let the axle drop the spring is compressed and falls out. You also save yourself from wrenching on the two bolts on the compressor for 15 minutes.

2. The sleeves for the rear bump stops need to be pushed ALL THE WAY IN the holes. If you don't the bolt that holds the rear spacer and bump stop in won't reach the threads in the frame.

3. The bump stops themselves will fit between a stretched spring, but it is easier to place them on the base before putting the spring in and then using your fingers to lift them in place put them back in the sleeves.

4. Even though his 98 TJ was newer than my 94 YJ there were some touches of rust. I think spraying it w/ WD 40 for a week before starting helped to turn the nuts and bolts.

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Unread 03-06-2003, 07:01 PM   #17
Kraw
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lame question, I know..... I have never lifted anything before. I am going to order the RE 2" BB soon.

I have a coworker who is a mechanic that owe's me so he is going to help/do.... any tips? Oh, getting some disco's and putting them on at the same time.


I did a serch, found nothing.. I am assuming this is a simple process, thus, no threads on the subject
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Unread 03-07-2003, 06:08 AM   #18
jeep4fishing
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It will be very similar to the install of the BDS we did to Judge B. The sway bars are a good thing to change while you have everything apart. You will want longer shocks to. (I don't remember if the RE comes with them or not). Even though most say you don't need the spring compressor, get one anyways. It saves you the sore muscles from fighting with the springs.
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Unread 03-07-2003, 07:53 AM   #19
Kraw
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeep4fishing
It will be very similar to the install of the BDS we did to Judge B. The sway bars are a good thing to change while you have everything apart. You will want longer shocks to. (I don't remember if the RE comes with them or not). Even though most say you don't need the spring compressor, get one anyways. It saves you the sore muscles from fighting with the springs.

the RE kit does come with shocks and my bud has a spring compressor (I was surpsied and happy to hear!)

you mean change the whole sway bar out or just put on some disco's? Why would I need to change it out?
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Unread 03-08-2003, 04:27 PM   #20
JeepingMoose
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While installing my lift, I had the frame rails supported on jackstands while I raised/lowered the axles with a floor jack. Much to my surprise (and my friends dismay) one of the jackstands was cracked and gave way, causing my rig to tip onto the cement floor, gouging a chunk out! My Jeep survived with only a bent brake drum, thankfully, and noone was injured.
Moral of the story---CHECK ALL EQUIPMENT/TOOLS PRIOR TO USE! I don't like to think of what would have happened if one of us would have been under the rig wrenching at the time! {{{shudder}}}
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Unread 03-12-2003, 08:16 PM   #21
92 Green YJ
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I just wrapped up the install of Rough Countrys 3" Lift Kit on my 92 YJ. I ran into a minor problem when removing the old springs. Turned out the bolts had actually rusted to the bushing sleeves. No amount of PB Blaster or pounding was getting them out so we just chopped the springs up with a grinder and metal cut off wheel.

Also, if something doesnt fit, get a bigger hammer.
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Unread 03-20-2003, 07:12 PM   #22
yjinprogress
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Also, whatever lift you want, get a bigger one because that 3" lift that looks and sounds like a great idea now will not be enough when you decide you need 35's.

And you will.
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Unread 04-18-2003, 01:12 AM   #23
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a second person would have helped a lot. ever try to hang an axle by yourself? it can be done with a lot of swearing!
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Unread 04-18-2003, 10:08 AM   #24
LOCKED UP
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Spring compressor, PB-blaster, extra bottle jacks, random pieces of 2x4, a buddy and in my case a woman to make dinner b/c you won't finish in time to make squat yourself....

If your pulling a steering stablizer... make sure you have one of these:

Because the BFH just flattens the end. It's called a tie rod puller at AutoZone...
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Unread 05-12-2003, 10:11 AM   #25
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I just finished installing my RE 2" BB this weekend, It was a breeze. Two things to note: 1. spring compressor's RULE!! 2. When puting the bar through the bushing in the shock I found it to be real easy to take the bushing out of the shock first, push the mounting bar through the bushing and then put this assembly back in the shock. Thanks to everyone for there advice and help, by researching this forum it made this project a piece of cake.
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Unread 06-25-2003, 02:28 PM   #26
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I installed my 3T tera-flex mostly by myself. Here are a few things I learned.
Get under your jeep and know what and where everything is, so when you read the instructions you don't get confused.
Read the instructions carefully and follow every step in sequence.
I have a TJ with the spring coils and you definitely should rent a spring compressor for the front springs. The rear springs all you need is for someone to bounce or stand on the brake drum and they slide right in.
When installing the front springs with the tera-flex you have to put the bump-stop spacer in the bottom of the coil when installing. Put ducktape across the spring to hold the spacer in the middle of the coil (so it doesn't get in the way) when installing. Makes things easier.
Get some PB blaster or liquid wrench and spray all the bolts you most remove.
On the rear axle don't forget to remove the axle breather hose till after installation and then reinsert the hose. If you don't take it off you may damage the hose (it can only stretch so far).
Key tools you'll need are a brass hammer, spring compressor, 16,18,15,14,13mm sockets and wrenches. Torx55, 2 jackstands, floor jack and some elbow grease.
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Unread 10-26-2003, 09:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOCKED UP
Because the BFH just flattens the end. It's called a tie rod puller at AutoZone...
Just make sure you remove castleated nut, flip it over,put it on till flush with bolt, and whack away. Though there is little room to get a good whack but at least it won't mushroom the top of the bolt. Also helps if you put a hammer under link, or end to remove some of the hop in piece you are hitting.wrks best with two people.
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Unread 01-14-2004, 05:00 PM   #28
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TJ Lift Suggestions.

When you take your tires off, put them under the jeep right next to the jack stands. Between the jeeps frame and the floor. This way if the Jeep falls, like mentioned about the jeep will land on the tires. I have also installed a TJ lift with the tires still on the Jeep this is even safer.

Here a tip for trying to remove tapered connections on tie rod ends or the steering stabalizer. Say you are trying to remove the steering stabalizer from the drag link. Take the castlenut off the end of the stabalizer and then smack the other part meaning the bulged out part of the drag link. Not the tapered steering stabalizer end with the threaded end. I know this doesn't make sense but it work and works well. The vibrations will spread through both parts and the tapered end will fall right out. It's a good idea to leave the nut threaded on about 1-2 turns so when it breaks loose it doesn't fall. Smack it really hard with a ball peen hammer.

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Unread 01-18-2004, 02:18 AM   #29
mrknocke
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Utilize ALL your resources...ie...when you cant find your spring compressor, hose clamps can work great in a pinch....heh...not saying that i actually did this of course....uh...next thing.

on xj's, the original bolt for the lower part of the sway bar end link does NOT thread out like some people may think...or at least like i did. easiest way to get it out is to cut it down so there is about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch remaining and whack it A LOT with an extra-grande-supersized-gigando hammer. when the bolt is shorter, there is less movement in the vertical direction, so the force of each blow goes more in the horizontal direction...which ultimately drives the bolt out.

having a bigger, younger brother that is stronger than you helps out a bunch too. he wasnt afraid to tackle the damn bolts that were too stuck for me to deal with. go keith!

Last thing, to take your mind off things and get yourself in a better mood after all the swearing and throwing of tools during the install...take cool "after" pics like this one....

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[URL=http://oregonstate.edu/~kronckem/flex1.jpg]Flex #1[/URL]
[URL=http://oregonstate.edu/~kronckem/flex2.jpg]Flex #2[/URL]
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Unread 03-18-2004, 11:31 PM   #30
PhilipJ
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1) Dig up and read reviews + forum threads for info privy to whatever it is you are installing. All of the problems that I ran into, I knew what to expect ahead of time (tools, complications, shortcuts, safety tips, etc.) and was more prepared and less frustrated as a result.

2) PB or WD-40 the hell out of every possible nut and bolt you can find (that pertains to whatever you are installing) every day for about a week. I don't have any air tools so I was able to borrow some from a friend as well as an impact wrench. Well, both crapped out on me and if I hadn't soaked everything to death there's no way I would have been able to do the rest by hand and would have been stuck without a driveable vehicle.

3) A breaker bar and tight-fitting cheater pipe can be a lifesaver. There were bolts that wouldn't budge with the air tools or impact wrench (before they died) that I was able to pop easily with the breaker bar and a little leverage. Mind you I'm not a big guy (5'11" / 165) and I was able to break 90% of the bolts loose the old fashioned way with a minimal amount of effort. Also, most guns won't fit underneath the u-bolt plates unless you have a hi-lift (lucky SOB if you do) or taller-than-average jack-stands.
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