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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:07 PM   #1
pbskidz
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Cold Air Intakes!

Hi everyone, I just have some questions about intakes as I am interested in getting one in the near future.

First off, I have a 2.5L TJ. I am not worried about the heat in my engine, but I am in upgrade mode right now and I want some extra performance for when I put some 32" tires on later. So I just wanted some feedback, like what is a good brand for a 2.5L TJ, is it worth it, can a complete newb install it? I have had my eye on the AEM Brute Force intake for some time now, but whenever I mention this to people they say AEM is for cars and K&N is more suited for trucks. All I need is a little clarification from you guys who know your stuff and perhaps some pointers.

Thanks.

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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:16 PM   #2
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I had an AEM Brute Force Air Intake on mine. Definately a noticable power difference. The only thing is that If you wheel in water, that thing becomes one big sponge. You will hydrolock in water. On street, your fine.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:23 PM   #3
pbskidz
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Was yours with a 4 cylinder? Because in the description the brute force gives the 6 cylinders more horse power than the 4's.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:28 PM   #4
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I have a 4.0L (6 cyl.)
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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:29 PM   #5
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You'll definately notice a power difference. You also get a throttle body spacer with the AEM
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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:43 PM   #6
Jerry Bransford
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I'll go against those who say you'll notice a power difference, unless you're suceptible to the placebo effect.

And throttle body spacers are literally useless under the type of throttle body a TJ has since only air passes through it... no fuel whatsoever. Making the air path longer does nothing. Spacers are great under carburetors and throttle body injection engines, just not under a TJ's TB since the TJ's fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, well below the throttle body.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 04:53 PM   #7
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Save your money for gears and forget the bolt-on stuff.
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Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:01 PM   #8
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Well I am kind of turned off by the whole idea of a new intake after reading around for a little bit. What else could I do to get more performance? Those performance chips just look like complete BS to me. Would a new K&N filter serve a useful purpose?
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:07 PM   #9
mecompco
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You can bolt on whatever you want to their habitat, but I don't think you're going to be able to squeeze enough out of those four squirrels to run 32s comfortably.

Gears and/or more cubic inches are the answer for on-road performance. I suppose a 4:1 would be OK for off-road purposes.
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'94 Cherokee Country
Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:12 PM   #10
pbskidz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mecompco View Post
You can bolt on whatever you want to their habitat, but I don't think you're going to be able to squeeze enough out of those four squirrels to run 32s comfortably.

Gears and/or more cubic inches are the answer for on-road performance. I suppose a 4:1 would be OK for off-road purposes.
Dang, kinda want a 4.0L now, that makes me feel great when the engine in my car is referred to as a squirrel!
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbskidz View Post
Would a new K&N filter serve a useful purpose?
Yes, engine rebuilders LOVE people who run them since they allow more silica and grime past them. I ran one for a while after installing a belt-driven air compressor that required the OE filter box to be removed. It took two prefilters (an Outerwears and a foam Unifilter) over the top of the K&N POS to keep the gritty desert sand and silica out of my engine since it was getting past the K&N. K&N air filters are only ok for the street, not in dusty offroad conditions. And if you say that some of the desert racers run K&Ns, let's not forget that those guys rebuild their engines all the time anyway.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:19 PM   #12
pbskidz
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yes, engine rebuilders LOVE people who run them since they allow more silica and grime past them. I ran one for a while after installing a belt-driven air compressor that required the OE filter box to be removed. It took two prefilters (an Outerwears and a foam Unifilter) over the top of the K&N POS to keep the gritty desert sand and silica out of my engine since it was getting past the K&N. K&N air filters are only ok for the street, not in dusty offroad conditions. And if you say that some of the desert racers run K&Ns, let's not forget that those guys rebuild their engines all the time anyway.
I dont want stuff getting past the filter and into my engine ever so I think Ill skip that.

Well...I guess Ill just put my money into a locker and skip the whole trying to make the engine perform better, it just sucks because I want bigger tires.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:22 PM   #13
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...it just sucks because I want bigger tires.
Yep I've been there. Regearing both axles to a lower ratio is the only real answer to getting more power necessary to overcome the power loss caused by bigger tires. Really.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 05:30 PM   #14
pbskidz
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Yep I've been there. Regearing both axles to a lower ratio is the only real answer to getting more power necessary to overcome the power loss caused by bigger tires. Really.
What would be the process or cost to regear the axles to a lower ratio as I am sure I probably can't do it myself? Also, after doing some research about jeeps more specifically (Yeah AFTER I bought one!) I realized that I have one of the worst axels being the dana 35, are these vulnerable to breaking easily while off roading? It just sucks to think of upgrading this car so much when it already has such a weak engine and axels, I want to start with a solid vehicle and work up from there. I am a newb to cars in general so sorry if these questions are dumb.
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Unread 02-18-2008, 06:15 PM   #15
Jerry Bransford
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Including all parts and labor, it's pretty close to $1100-1200 to regear both axles. While it's not cheap, it's worth paying someone to do it for you as the process is very exacting, tedious, and if not done perfectly means the new gears will be toast in short order.
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