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Unread 10-25-2011, 08:48 PM   #46
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1HouseMouse View Post
I have one here with me now. I'll send you Photos and if you want it.... PM me and it's yours free of all charges.... including shipping.
Thanks man! That would be awesome. I'll cover the shipping cost though. I can paypal you to cover it.

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Unread 10-25-2011, 09:36 PM   #47
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I have one here with me now. I'll send you Photos and if you want it.... PM me and it's yours free of all charges.... including shipping.
Way to go! It's good to see someone helping out when they get a chance.
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Unread 10-26-2011, 06:59 AM   #48
Louie4
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Way to go! It's good to see someone helping out when they get a chance.
Very awesome. There are a lot of good folks on this forum and I'm always appreciative of any and all that I receive.
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Unread 10-26-2011, 03:20 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Thanks man! That would be awesome. I'll cover the shipping cost though. I can paypal you to cover it.
Ok, connector is on it's way. USPS says delivery will be Friday. Only one request.... Please keep us posted on your progress with or without the part I sent you. Good Teaching information you are doing. Ray.
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Unread 10-26-2011, 06:11 PM   #50
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Ok, connector is on it's way. USPS says delivery will be Friday. Only one request.... Please keep us posted on your progress with or without the part I sent you. Good Teaching information you are doing. Ray.
Ray,

I greatly appreciate your hospitality and I'll definitely keep everyone posted. I'm going to take a few pics of the cable and see what everyone thinks. It might be reusable and there's only 2 places that look iffy. I think I fixed the control box wires but I would rather use a more reliable connection so I'm going to wait for your connectors.

Here's a post from GrantYJ after we hi-jacked the thread about whether the OP should keep his working M8274. We were discussing the cable maintenance and proper lubrication. There's a link to an article by Billavista on Pirate that was an excellent read.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ View Post
I'd stick with the pin if I were you. The pin is a safety point so that you can't put enough pressure on the hook to break it. If I'm going to have cable flying back at me at a high rate of speed, I'd rather that it was just the weight of the cable and not the cable and half of a very heavy hook...

By "condition" I was just talking about doing the initial stretch and wind on the winch before you use it the first time (just like when you buy a new winch). As for lube, I've seen folks use engine oil. My guess is that it would be better than nothing, but I've typically used Kroil. I don't have any real pearls of wisdom here, that's just what dad always used (and still uses) to lube his cable a couple of times a year. If you buy your cable from Pierce, I'd ask them what they recommend. From what I've experienced, they're very knowledgable. If they don't know off the top of their head, I'm sure they could find out. Below is an excerpt from BillaVista's recovery bible on Pirate. I agree with the information (easier than typing). I also highly recommend reading the entire "bible" which is located at the link immediately below. There is a lot of really good information there and it's actually geared toward off road use.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/index.html

The excerpt from the link above:

Wire Rope Lubrication

The lubrication ropes receive during manufacture is adequate only for initial storage and the early stages of the rope’s service life. A winch's wire rope should be maintained in a well-lubricated condition. It is important that lubricant be applied as part of the maintenance program. The lubricant must be compatible with the original lubricant, so the rope manufacturer should be consulted. The lubricant applied should be of the type that does not hinder visual inspection. The surface of some ropes may become covered with dirt, rock dust or other material during their operation. This can prevent field-applied lubricants from properly penetrating into the rope, so it's a good practice to clean these ropes before you lubricate them.
The lubricant you apply should be light-bodied enough to penetrate to the rope's core. You can normally apply lubricant by using one of three methods: drip it on rope, spray it on or brush it on. In all cases, you should apply it at a place where the rope is bending, such as around a sheave. We recommend you apply it at the top of the bend because that's where the rope's strands are spread by bending and are more easily penetrated.
In addition, pressure lubricators are available commercially. Your rope's service life will be directly proportional to the effectiveness of the method you use and the amount of lubricant that reaches the rope's working parts. A proper lubricant must reduce friction, protect against corrosion and adhere to every wire. It should also be pliable, and not crack or separate when cold, yet not drip when warm. Never apply heavy grease to the rope because it can trap excessive grit, which can damage the rope. Nor should you apply used "engine oil" because it contains materials that can damage the rope.

End excerpt....

The method that I normally use is as follows (keep in mind, I normally lube mine after it's become nasty dirty)...

1) Unspool completely, scrub or power wash the entire cable with soapy water followed immediately with a rinse (I'm going to catch flack over power washing it...)

2) Allow it to dry completely. This works best on a hot dry sunny day.

3) Once it's dry, I respool one complete bottom layer on the drum and apply the penetrating oil to the cable that is wrapped.

4) Unspool about half of what is on the drum back out and set up a snatch block very near the front of your Jeep. Attach the hook to a light vehicle (The idea here is to use enough weight that it will flex the cable but not heat up your winch... I normally put my youngest son on the riding mower and pull him up my driveway)

5) Apply "insert product of your choice here" to the cable on or just before it's maximum bending location as it goes through the snatch block. (You want it to work it's way down to the core of the cable)

6) Once all the "product" is applied, I'll let it sit for an hour or so to soak in. (This is a good time for a refreshing beverage)

7) Unspool all the cable again, clean up the mess on the drum, front bumper, and fairlead and respool like normal while cleaning off the excess product with a rag.
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Unread 10-26-2011, 06:51 PM   #51
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Here's a kink in the cable. There is also flattening of the cable that was wrapped around the drum. It wouldn't hurt to replace but a good cleaning and lubricating and I could get some more pulls. I'll probably go ahead and get a new cable though.

The birds nest.



The kink.

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Unread 10-27-2011, 06:33 PM   #52
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Well I got some bad news guys.

I got my bumper touched up with paint and wanted to get the winch on before it got a little cold and rainy. The weather has been awesome and I wanted to take advantage of it. In order to take my winch on and off I had to take the bumper off. I got the winch and bumper on and I wanted to test the motor to make sure it worked. Well it didn't. As a matter of fact it sparked when I tried hooking some jumper cables up to it. I had the case grounded on the bottom and I hooked a positive lead to one of the post closest to the drum and the negative to the outer post.

So now I have a few possibilities for the problem.

-I don't have any idea how to put power to the winch motor.
-The motor is toast and is grounding out somewhere.
-I assembled the planetary gears incorrectly causing it to lock up.

Well, I figure I tried several ways to power it and nothing so that might be ruled out. The motor being toast is a great possibility. As for the planetary gears, I don't think so because I followed every picture of a rebuild I could find on the web. Here's my next thought. The drum is locked up when it's engaged. I figure that's because the motor isn't turning the coupler inside the drum to release the brake therefore it's locked up. If the motor is toast it won't unlock the drum.

If anyone sees flaws in my logic or wants to throw out some ideas I'm all for it. A few pics of the winch on the bumper. Looks like that new cable may have to wait until I get a new motor.



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Unread 10-27-2011, 08:15 PM   #53
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Well you are ahead of me. I still haven't gotten around to mounting mine back up front since my rebuild. Kinda wanna get some new rope for it first. Mine is still in decent shape, but it's sun faded and it will not match the new color scheme I have planned for the YJ.
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Unread 10-27-2011, 09:39 PM   #54
Louie4
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Well you are ahead of me. I still haven't gotten around to mounting mine back up front since my rebuild. Kinda wanna get some new rope for it first. Mine is still in decent shape, but it's sun faded and it will not match the new color scheme I have planned for the YJ.
I don't want to put my old wire rope on mine but I'm going to clean it up and lubricate a section and see how it does.
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Unread 10-27-2011, 09:50 PM   #55
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OK, I'm a 'tard.

I watched a video on testing an M8000 Warn winch. I did not jumper the terminals from the armature to F1 then power F2 then reverse armature to F2 and power F1. Now I remember why I didn't go into electrical engineering. As a matter of fact I'm an Agricultural Engineer. Even more surprising is I design electrical substation connectors for high and extra high voltage.

One thing to take away from this is google is your friend. I'll post back if it works and I believe it will now that it will be wired correctly.

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Unread 10-27-2011, 10:18 PM   #56
Louie4
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Another question for you guys. I saw a rebuild of an M8274 on youtube and the guy sealed his electric motor to the housing and the back cover with RTV. I have the motor off, should I do this?
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Unread 10-28-2011, 06:34 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Another question for you guys. I saw a rebuild of an M8274 on youtube and the guy sealed his electric motor to the housing and the back cover with RTV. I have the motor off, should I do this?
Don't think it would hurt.
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Unread 10-28-2011, 07:17 AM   #58
Louie4
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Don't think it would hurt.
RTV it is.
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Unread 10-28-2011, 10:20 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
OK, I'm a 'tard.

I watched a video on testing an M8000 Warn winch. I did not jumper the terminals from the armature to F1 then power F2 then reverse armature to F2 and power F1. Now I remember why I didn't go into electrical engineering. As a matter of fact I'm an Agricultural Engineer. Even more surprising is I design electrical substation connectors for high and extra high voltage.

One thing to take away from this is google is your friend. I'll post back if it works and I believe it will now that it will be wired correctly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpJ5yX-ULuQ
I was getting ready to asked if you'd used a jumper... Trust me, you're not the first to do that. I did the same thing after I went through the motor on a Smittybilt. It shorted bad enough that I had to chase the threads with a die/tap before I could bolt the lead back on. The upside is that once you make that mistake, it leaves an impression and you won't make it again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Another question for you guys. I saw a rebuild of an M8274 on youtube and the guy sealed his electric motor to the housing and the back cover with RTV. I have the motor off, should I do this?
I highly recommend sealing the connections (housing side and cap side as well). I had a Ramsey on a CJ that I know had never been submerged, but I never put a cover over it. It started giving me problems and when I opened it up, there must have been two cups or so of water inside (foul nasty water). A little cleanup with contact cleaner and a nylon brush took care of it. After that I sealed it and tore it down the following year (I was starting to worry that I might have created a situation where water could seep in and not be able to get out), but it was dry and pretty inside.

That winch looks great. If I didn't know that you'd gone through it, I'd have assumed that it was new.
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Unread 10-28-2011, 11:27 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Another question for you guys. I saw a rebuild of an M8274 on youtube and the guy sealed his electric motor to the housing and the back cover with RTV. I have the motor off, should I do this?
My concern with doing that would be trapping heat around the motor if too much were used. Warn doesn't RTV the motor, I don't think I would either.
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