Another Harbor Freight build - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > General Jeep & Off-Road Equipment > Another Harbor Freight build

Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

Reply
Unread 07-14-2013, 09:53 PM   #16
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Clarksville, Tennessee
Posts: 2,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat View Post
Wired up and fenders installed -

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
It's like a blank canvas waiting to be painted! So whacha gonna do to finish it off? What are you thinking of doing?

armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-15-2013, 07:49 AM   #17
JKBender
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Algonquin, IL
Posts: 90
Something that I did not do and wish I would have done that I wanted to point out to you....

When you get around to putting on the plywood floor, use some large fender washers between the plywood and the 3 cross bars. Because they are designed to fit inside the 2 side rails, they sit a little lower. When building mine I did not see this as a big deal so I did not worry about it, mainly because originally I was going to leave mine as a flatbed rather than building sides for it. But, now that I have built my sides, I have come to realize that the gap at the bottom of the front and rear panels is large enough to allow dirt and water in very easily.... which a very cheap fix could have prevented.
JKBender is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #18
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Clarksville, Tennessee
Posts: 2,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKBender View Post
Something that I did not do and wish I would have done that I wanted to point out to you....

When you get around to putting on the plywood floor, use some large fender washers between the plywood and the 3 cross bars. Because they are designed to fit inside the 2 side rails, they sit a little lower. When building mine I did not see this as a big deal so I did not worry about it, mainly because originally I was going to leave mine as a flatbed rather than building sides for it. But, now that I have built my sides, I have come to realize that the gap at the bottom of the front and rear panels is large enough to allow dirt and water in very easily.... which a very cheap fix could have prevented.
Two other options are to:

1. Put a strip of metal the same thickness on top of those cross bars with holes drilled in the appropriate places so it's even all the way across.

2. If you're good with wood, you could plane down (am I using the right terminology?) a strip on the left and right side of the plywood flooring to compensate for the added height on the sides. Someone else that was building a little trailer did that.
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #19
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
Thanks. That's good to know. I guess the floor would also bow down slightly over the cross bars if the washers aren't there.
azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-21-2013, 03:53 PM   #20
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
Hooked the trailer to my Jeep and checked out the lights. Everything working properly. I was a little concerned about the Jeep side of the electrical because I had never tested the existed harness before, PO had a U-Haul hitch installed. Secured wiring and wrapped with split loom cover.

Also purchased 4' x 8' plywood for flooring. Guy at Lowe's cut it perfectly! Bottom piece fits nicely and the top piece I had cut 1" wider, in case I figure out how to do a top.
The plan for now is a pretty standard box - in my head I envision two rows of 1 x 12's and one row of 1 x 8'. Should give a box height of somewhere around 28 -29 inches tall. That might be a little high to reach over for a short guy like me, but maybe I'll do a mock up first.
I like the ship lap/tongue-and-groove ideas, but the wood really does look thin. One finished side, one rough side.

My patio roof is tar paper and asphalt (?). Every few years I roll a coating called Elastek on it. Since I have some left, I wonder how this would work on the underside of the flooring?
I was thinking of painting the top side of the floor a brighter color, maybe yellow. This would make it easier to see in the box in low light conditions (I think). I have a Mountainsmith pack that has a bright yellow lining. It is the best idea in pack design since the adjustable strap! Really makes it easy to find stuff in there.
Still need to get the hardware, then finish (paint, seal) the floor and install. Then start working on the box sides.
azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-21-2013, 04:34 PM   #21
bobdog
Senior Member
 
bobdog's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 559
Quote:
Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
Ya see; I didn't know that about the HF trailer's locking nuts. My bubble's not burst - I just learned something.

Then this is good information to pass along - replace the locking nuts that come with the HF trailers with some quality pieces. You know you're always looking for a good excuse to go to the hardware store... seems like a couple dollars should cover it. I'm figuring these are metric.

My little black trailer came with locking nuts. I'm not exactly home right now where I can compare them to the pictures above, but I don't remember having any issues with them. But you're never wrong going with quality hardware.
Of course another alternative is to weld the frame....;>)
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/


Black Jeep Society
New Mexico Jeep Club
Atheist Jeep Society
Micro-Trailer Club
bobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-21-2013, 08:00 PM   #22
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
I didn't have any problems with the Chinese "nylocks" that came with my kit.
Hey Bobdog, that welding looks like it can solve a lot of problems and make things possible.
I don't know much about welding, but I'm pretty sure I could figure out how to run one of those Harbor Freight wire welders!
I've been looking at a Jeep-load of videos on YouTube regarding their 90 amp unit. I guess if you don't run 20 foot welds on 3/4 plate, it'll do the job (as long as you let it cool down).
azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-29-2013, 08:11 PM   #23
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
Spent some time this weekend on the trailer. It was HOT!
Drilled holes and cut notches on the floor piece. Got my daughter to apply the Elastik roof coating to the underside of the floor 😃It's not the best, but hoping it's durable.
Had a small can of Minwax stain from another project, so I used it for the floor. I think I'll use up the rest of the small can for another coat tomorrow.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
image-3451005038.jpg

azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-29-2013, 08:13 PM   #24
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
Looks like it will be a major pain to put the washers between the floor and the cross braces. I think I will stick them on temporarily using some type of adhesive.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-29-2013, 09:26 PM   #25
bobdog
Senior Member
 
bobdog's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 559
If that Elastik is anything like what I used to put on the seems of my RV, then it should do a good job of sealing the underside. Plus having a single sheet of PW should also decrease the chances of having leaks.
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...-sort-1209834/


Black Jeep Society
New Mexico Jeep Club
Atheist Jeep Society
Micro-Trailer Club
bobdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-30-2013, 07:15 AM   #26
JKBender
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Algonquin, IL
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat View Post
Looks like it will be a major pain to put the washers between the floor and the cross braces. I think I will stick them on temporarily using some type of adhesive.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
A dab of Vaseline works great to keep the washers from sliding around on the frame until you get the bolts through. Also, be sure to use fender washers, I had issues with regular washers pressing into the wood negating the gains I was looking for.
JKBender is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-03-2013, 05:34 PM   #27
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
I picked up the wood today to build the sides.
Any reason no ones built wooden sides so the posts are on the inside of the box, rather than exposed on the outside?
Not that weather exposure is the issue, but it looks like you could gain almost 2 inches in width and same on the length. I think that the first (bottom) row of boards would not be supported much by the bed of the trailer. You will also have to remove the fenders and mount them directly to the wood sides. Not sure if this is why Army initially moved his fenders, may have been due to the larger tires.
azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-03-2013, 08:27 PM   #28
armyRN
Web Wheeler
 
armyRN's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Clarksville, Tennessee
Posts: 2,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat View Post
I picked up the wood today to build the sides.
Any reason no ones built wooden sides so the posts are on the inside of the box, rather than exposed on the outside?
Not that weather exposure is the issue, but it looks like you could gain almost 2 inches in width and same on the length. I think that the first (bottom) row of boards would not be supported much by the bed of the trailer. You will also have to remove the fenders and mount them directly to the wood sides. Not sure if this is why Army initially moved his fenders, may have been due to the larger tires.
I moved the fenders up because of the taller tires. And with the backets I used it also moved them out a little bit too to almost be centered (as you're looking front to back, not from the side) over the tire. And I'd rather have the tire stick out slightly from under the fender - I'd rather the tire bounce off a rock instead of the fender.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post11240606

Your idea would work fine. What I would suggest you do (if you were just starting out) is make the plywood floor stick out on all sides 3/4" (assuming you're using 3/4" thick boards) beyond the edge of the frame. That way you can still have support for the bottom boards, and will help make a good seal if you're wanting to make it water tight. But since you've already put down the floor, have the side boards come down the thickness of the plywood to cover the edge of the plywood flooring.

So how much clearance will that leave you between the side of the tire and the boards? How much clearance do you have now between the side of the tires and the frame?
armyRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-04-2013, 11:52 AM   #29
azcat
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 46
ArmyRN, thanks for the suggestion. Well - build and learn. I have already cut the floor, so I'm going to have the "posts" on the outside of the "railings", like many others have done. Maybe I would have gone the other way if I hadn't cut the floor already.
This is one of the things I didn't visualize until actually at that part of the build.
azcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-05-2013, 09:33 AM   #30
JKBender
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Algonquin, IL
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat View Post
I picked up the wood today to build the sides.
Any reason no ones built wooden sides so the posts are on the inside of the box, rather than exposed on the outside?
Not that weather exposure is the issue, but it looks like you could gain almost 2 inches in width and same on the length. I think that the first (bottom) row of boards would not be supported much by the bed of the trailer. You will also have to remove the fenders and mount them directly to the wood sides. Not sure if this is why Army initially moved his fenders, may have been due to the larger tires.
For me there were 2 reasons why I ran the wall boards on the inside of the stake boards:

1) the fenders would be in the way, as you mentioned.
2) If the load shifted in my trailer I felt that the wall structure would hold up better this way. With the boards on the inside, the load shift would put pressure on the wall board and that board would be pushing outward against the stake board across the whole surface area of contacts. However if the walls were on the outside then the wall boards would be pushed away from the stake board and the only surface keeping it all together would be the head of the bolt (or washer). It is a difference is surface area of less than 1 sq inch versus 20-24 sq inches.
JKBender is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.