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ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsWe have FLASHLIGHTS! Great for your Emergency bag!

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Unread 08-31-2013, 07:31 PM   #61
Sahara707
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Here's a mock up of a CJ / YJ bumperette. If I want to use the existing bolts in the back I'll need to drill some new holes. I'm not sure if I'll move forward with them. I'd like them more if they were scaled down about 25%. Yes or No? Would a new pair line up better?

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Unread 08-31-2013, 07:48 PM   #62
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What to do with the spare? I saw armyRN's on the front and seems a little heavy for the tongue, although the weight in the trailer would probably counter balance the load? How about under the the trailer like a truck? Here's a picture of the spare beneath the frame just ahead of the axle. For a street trailer it would ork.

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Unread 08-31-2013, 09:53 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
What to do with the spare? I saw armyRN's on the front and seems a little heavy for the tongue, although the weight in the trailer would probably counter balance the load? How about under the the trailer like a truck? Here's a picture of the spare beneath the frame just ahead of the axle. For a street trailer it would ork.

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I'd still vote for finding a tailgate spare tire carrier from a YJ or TJ and mounting it on the front panel with the tire resting on the tongue. That way the front metal panel isn't supporting all the weight of the tire. The spare is not that heavy, and if anything you want to bias the weight in/of the trailer forward of the trailer's axle. Plus using a YJ/TJ tailgate spare tire holder moves the tire out from the trailer box so it won't interfere with mounting your canvas box cover.

I'm just glad you're wanting to carry a spare on your trailer - folks are crazy (or short-sighted) when they don't.
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Unread 08-31-2013, 09:59 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
Here's a mock up of a CJ / YJ bumperette. If I want to use the existing bolts in the back I'll need to drill some new holes. I'm not sure if I'll move forward with them. I'd like them more if they were scaled down about 25%. Yes or No? Would a new pair line up better?

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I like the look, but I agree; it would be nice if you could find a scaled-down version. They do look a little big, but if someone had their trailer spare tire mounted on the rear of the box it would look ok. Like I'm thinking of doing with mine....

These bumperettes for Jeeps are pretty much all the same size, so I don't think a new pair would make any difference. You can always bring the ends in a little bit with some force. I think the old old Toyota Landcruisers had bumperettes on their rear, but I don't know if they were any smaller. I'll have to see what I can google.

It's your call.

Update: drew a blank trying to find some smaller bumperettes. And if anything, the Toyota Landcruiser ones looked even larger than the Jeep ones.
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Unread 09-02-2013, 08:38 PM   #65
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Canvas cover tacked down at the corners. Still can't believe a canvas soccer banner that was in the garage for 10 years was the exact fit for the trailer box. Tomorrow the tires & rims arrive. Finally, the trailer comes off the jack stands. Because I bought the wider axle while I was building the trailer it hasn't seen the pavement yet.

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Unread 09-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #66
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It just keeps getting better and better. Looking forward to hearing about its maiden voyage.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 07:58 PM   #67
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A rolling trailer!

Finally the wheels showed up. I came home from work and threw on my shorts and t-shirt and went to work. Tightened the u bolts on the axle and threw the rims on. It was a good feeling to be able to move the trailer around. It was a big brick in the garage. Next is to figure out the hitch. It's going to take a 4 to 5 inch drop to be semi level. It's 24" to the bottom of the receiver on the jeep and 18.5" to the bottom of the tongue. All though there's some more little things to do, it's ready to hook up and take her for a spin.

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Unread 09-04-2013, 08:32 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
Next is to figure out the hitch. It's going to take a 4 to 5 inch drop to be semi level. It's 24" to the bottom of the receiver on the jeep and 18.5" to the bottom of the tongue.
A couple alternatives to using a very large drop hitch could include:
1) Adding lift blocks to the trailer to raise the trailer a little higher
2) raise the coupler up on the trailer similar to how ArmyRN has his Pintle Ring set up.

Keeping the receiver high has advantages if the trailer ever gets off pavement as the higher position helps to keep it out of harms way.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 11:25 PM   #69
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Subbed.

How much weight do you think the side walls of the box can hold? Say a 50lb kayak?

Also, how quickly could you remove the sides of the box if you wanted to have a flatbed for something?
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Unread 09-04-2013, 11:38 PM   #70
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A couple alternatives to using a very large drop hitch could include:
1) Adding lift blocks to the trailer to raise the trailer a little higher
2) raise the coupler up on the trailer similar to how ArmyRN has his Pintle Ring set up.

Keeping the receiver high has advantages if the trailer ever gets off pavement as the higher position helps to keep it out of harms way.
With the coupler thingy I made, you can still use your ball mount if you don't want to go the pintle ring route. You just bolt the coupler to a length of 2" square tubing. It'll also raise it up some (a good thing).

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post13835579

Another advantage of going this route is it will lengthen your trailer's tongue. In the picture you can see where the coupler was originally bolted to the tongue compared to where it is now (the two bolts on the tongue used by the 2" receiver adapter thingy). Obviously you should limit how far you go in trying to lengthen your trailer's tongue going this route; on mine it's at least a foot longer with this set-up.

I used one of these adjustable hitches before I did the tongue conversion/pintle hitch thing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Drop-Ba...441#vi-content

I also used it when moving the trailer across the country behind my wife's minivan (the picture below was while getting the trailer ready for the move). It worked out well, and wasn't that expensive. Some of the adjustable hitches I looked at didn't adjust/drop down as much as I wanted; this one did. I picked it up at my local auto parts store (Auto Zone if I remember correctly).

And I just noticed there's free shipping on the adjustable hitch I gave the link to above. I don't know if it's the exact same brand as the one I bought, but it looks identical. Looks like the site has quite a few options for adjustable height/drop hitches.
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Unread 09-05-2013, 07:13 AM   #71
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3-Axis Coupler Parts

armyRN, I'm going to check out Auto-Zone for that hitch. I did notice that the link on Ebay says it has a 5/8" hole for the ball? Seems small. I saw some 1-7/8 balls at TSC with 1" shafts and I have 3/4" one also, but 5/8"?

I also started gathering parts for the 3-Axis Coupler. 40.00 + change so far. We have a local metal shop that I think I can pick up the square tubing from scrapes. 5" and 8" pieces, instead of buying the finished products. At least the one that mounts to the receiver.
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Unread 09-05-2013, 09:26 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by Sahara707 View Post
armyRN, I'm going to check out Auto-Zone for that hitch. I did notice that the link on Ebay says it has a 5/8" hole for the ball? Seems small. I saw some 1-7/8 balls at TSC with 1" shafts and I have 3/4" one also, but 5/8"?

I also started gathering parts for the 3-Axis Coupler. 40.00 + change so far. We have a local metal shop that I think I can pick up the square tubing from scrapes. 5" and 8" pieces, instead of buying the finished products. At least the one that mounts to the receiver.
I looked at the link to see what you were looking at (I also noticed it had free shipping for the hitches - very cool). What I'm thinking they were trying to say was the hole in the square tubing to connect inside the receiver was a 5/8" hole. 2" receivers usually (if not always) take a 5/8" receiver hitch pin.

http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Access...rt/C21500.html

When I've got the option, I always go for the hitch ball with the 1" shaft. I don't remember what size the hole is on the hitch I got, but I'm wanting to say it is a 1". Usually they come with a 1" hole, with a reducer ring thing you can put in the hole if you've got a ball with a 3/4" shaft.

And let us know how the 3-axis coupler turns out.
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Unread 09-05-2013, 09:12 PM   #73
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Rear Stabilizers
Going into this modification I new they would be to short to touch the ground. I'll either carry some short blocks or those orange 6x6 plastic stackable blocks. The 3/16" plates that go in the corners will stiffen up the frame even more. They're spring loaded to pull down and fold up out of the way. I might cut the bases off and get a longer piece of leg.

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Unread 09-06-2013, 12:46 AM   #74
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I'm curious what you've got planned for the trailer that you're getting the rear stabilizers for? A roof top tent maybe?
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Unread 09-06-2013, 08:51 AM   #75
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Dinoot sells stabilizers that extend up to 21.75" long, I know a lot of there trailers end up of 31" and taller tires so I suspect that these would work for you.

http://www.dinoot.com/pricing/genera...onents-pricing
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