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View Poll Results: 1310 or CTM u-joints?
1310 0 0%
CTM 6 100.00%
Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 01-04-2010, 01:19 AM   #1
VanBCguy
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1310 or CTM u-joints?

1310 or CTM u-joints? What's better for D44's (front & rear) with 5.13 gearing and a 4.5" RE lift on 35" tires?

If you can, please state your reasoning.

Thanks!

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Unread 01-04-2010, 07:18 AM   #2
BESRK
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1310 is the "size" of the Ujoint. The brands would be CTM, Spicer....etc.

I'm assuming you're comparing Spicers with the CTMs? If that's the case, I'd go with the CTMs. I know they claim they're D60 joints are "unbreakable" or close to it. I imagine, their D44 joints are in a similar category in relation to the typical Alloy D44 shaft.

I think if you run CTMs and alloy shafts in a D44, you're next weak spot would be in the hubs. If you upgrade hubs to drive flanges, then you're next weak spot would be the ring/pinion.

Also, Longfield D44 joints are in the same category as the CTMs... tough.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 10:17 AM   #3
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Thanks for the prompt reply BESRK. I actually don't know what I'm speaking of and this is the problem. I bought a used set of front and rear D44's with 5.13's from a guy through the best Jeep shop we have here in Canada. They did the original build for the guy, he was upgrading to hi-9's and they did the deal for me. All I have is a piece of paper that is his for sale ad on one of our local forums with what I should have received. It says I should have received CTM u-joints, etc., etc., etc. I didn't receive anything of the sort. I still have my old D30 front driveshaft with stock u-joints in (as just one small example how this shop screwed me). The Jeep is scary to drive over even a pot-hole, much less 4-wheel in. It feels like $22K out the door.

I'm trying to gather info. on what I should have and what's better so I can go and talk to these schmucks and be armed with info.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 11:47 AM   #4
Jerry Bransford
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CTMs are great but will be of no benefit if you're still running the OE axle shafts. The OE axle shafts have unhardened ears that hold the u-joints and they usually stretch/break before even the OE u-joints break. To take advantage of the CTM's added strength, you need to upgrade to hardened alloy axle shafts so they won't break first. And 1310 u-joints are for the driveshafts. The CTMs you'd want for your axle shafts would be a D44 size which is also known as a 297x or 760x which is the Spicer u-joint part number that fits.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 12:04 PM   #5
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I run the CTM's with my chromo shafts.
I would break Dana u joints in my old 30 like they were twigs after I put my Atlas in, and that was with chromo shafts. So I would say they are an upgrade regardless of your shafts myself. With chromo shafts, they are even better, but I was busting U joints regardless of the shafts I was running, and the CTM's cured my issues. Maybe I would have broken the ears off the axle shafts with stock shafts and CTM's, I dont know as I never tried it.
I would vote CTM's hands down.

Martin
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Unread 01-04-2010, 12:39 PM   #6
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One other thing about some of those "super joints" like the CTMs.. they might not be rated for "high speed" prolonged driving. Those joints don't use needle bearings in the caps. They use a bushing or even metal-to-metal contact. That's one of the ways they gain strength.. no bearings allow the pins to be a larger diameter. However, they require more frequent lubing and aren't meant for say.. driving long distances at higher speeds (like in the snow). Just something to consider...
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Unread 01-04-2010, 01:01 PM   #7
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CTMs are fine with daily driving duties, high-speed prolonged driving or otherwise and their lack of needle bearings should not lead anyone to believe otherwise. I have that on good authority from one of the CTM's co-developers, mrblaine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
Maybe I would have broken the ears off the axle shafts with stock shafts and CTM's...
You definitely would have stretched/busted the ears on OE axle shafts. The OE shafts stretch & break their ears even with the factory u-joints on a tough enough trail. That's what happened to me in Johnson Valley on Sledgehammer and why I upgraded to Warn's hardened alloy shafts which cured the issue.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 01:05 PM   #8
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mrblaine was a co developer of CTM? Say no more Jerry...I'm sold simply with you attaching him to the name CTM!

Thanks for the info!
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Unread 01-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #9
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I was basing that more on the paperwork that came with my Longfields.. it said to grease every other wheeling trip and not for sustained high speed driving. I should've been more specific with the brand instead of lumping all "super joints" into the same category. Cool beans on the CTMs..
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Unread 01-04-2010, 01:25 PM   #10
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Thanks for the posts and answers guys. The guy who used to own this stuff that I bought from is stopping by any minute. He's our local equivalent to Jerry. He'll be able to look at his old equip. and tell me what's wrong, what's installed and/or what should have been installed.

I'll post after his visit.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 03:13 PM   #11
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Super joints scare me a bit...
If you get bound up or are flailing around on the rocks. It is better to bust something of your choosing, say something cheap and fairly easy to replace...

A u-joint.
A "fuse" so to speak, a weak link.
There are many expensive components down there, better to break a $20 one than something much worse...


Just throwing another viewpoint out there...
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Unread 01-04-2010, 07:06 PM   #12
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One of the downfalls of busting an axle ujoint is that it often times takes the axle shaft yoke "ears" with it.. deforming them beyond use. Some of the better alloy shafts will better withstand a broken joint. It also helps to get off the throttle as soon as you hear the "snap".

Ideally, we'd all build axles strong enough to make "traction" the weak link.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 07:09 PM   #13
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I thought the same, a weak link......Right up until the busted u joint shocked the axle enough to chip 4 teeth off the ring gear!
I lube the CTM's the same as I did the Super Joints, every time I am home and before and after every wheeling trip. Never had an issue myself.

Martin
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Unread 01-04-2010, 07:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
One of the downfalls of busting an axle ujoint is that it often times takes the axle shaft yoke "ears" with it.. deforming them beyond use.
It actually usually happens in the reverse order of that when talking about the unhardened OE axle shafts. The ears stretch out which lets the u-joint pull free, whereupon the u-joint spins around free and collides with the yoke and breaks. Rarely does the u-joint break first when installed in unhardened OE axle shafts.
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Unread 01-04-2010, 07:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
One of the downfalls of busting an axle ujoint is that it often times takes the axle shaft yoke "ears" with it.
^^^This. I've never seen just one break. It's always ears and joint.

FWIW, anyone know anything about the "gold seal" joints that TW puts in their driveshafts? I have some in my rear DS and they feel a bit 'looser' than a comparable 5-790x that I'm used to at my rear diff. I've put exactly zero miles on the gold seal joint, so I can't really form any practical opinion yet.
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