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San Diego Area

2M views 41K replies 369 participants last post by  Joe Dillard 
#1 · (Edited)
Looking to hook up with some beginning to intermediate off-roaders in the San Diego area.

I am a newb to jeeping but not to common sense. I bought a jeep to try, and if I like it I will buy another and give this one to my daughter.

I am truly a quick learner and looking for other beginners or some old salt that is just willing to share the wisdom of their experience.

I would like to go jeeping at least once a month and of course more during the learning stages.

Currently, fire roads are all I have found around hear and a few construction areas.

What I am proposing is that all the way south newbs UNITE... if we can find some old salts to come along we can all learn faster. But I say lets get this thing rolling...

WHO IS WITH ME....?

Current jeep is

88 YJ
31x10.5.15 BFG ATs
I6 258 carbed
Pretty good condition but I am replacing all the parts that should have been replaced ages ago. (Hoses/clamps/Top etc...)
(The jeep sat for 3 years so I'm shaking out all the cobwebs...)
 
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#8,002 ·
I'm gonna hang tight on the distributor stuff until Josh stops by later. I don't have the skills or confidence to deal with timing/ignition stuff just yet. I wanna have someone verify that I've done it correctly before screwing something up in my 4 banger POS.

Jeff, do you have any pics on how you installed the Caddy fuse block? How did you splice in all the individual lines?
Turns out the 2.5 timing is not adjustable, the distro just bolts down and the ecu takes care of it.
 
#8,006 ·
OK, so we know the coil is good...

:laugh:
so the timing is not adjustable. If it's off then there is a bad sensor (or a bad connection to the sensor), or a vacuum leak.

the cps seems to be a big source of problems on those and there is a simple ohms test for them to see if it is good
 
#8,007 ·
Very fun, we met a couple in a LJ with LA's and ARB's that live in Hesperia. Planning a run to Johnson Valley and some gnarly rock crawling up there
Think about installing some alloy axleshafts up front before hitting JV. That's where I busted my passenger-side front axleshaft on my first run through Sledgehammer. The OE axleshafts are not hardened so they allow the u-joint to pull free under stress and bust things up. It's not pretty when it happens, the ears on both my inner axleshaft and outer axleshaft stub busted and then busted up the u-joint. After removing the inner axleshaft and reinstalling that outer stub, I completed Sledgehammer in 3WD that day with a lot more use of my winch than usual. Since installing Warn's hardened front axleshafts and hub kit, no more problems at all. Alloy USA and Superior Axle also make hardened axleshafts for the D30 if manual hubs aren't in your budget. :tea:
 

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#8,008 ·
Think about installing some alloy axleshafts up front before hitting JV. That's where I busted my passenger-side front axleshaft on my first run through Sledgehammer. The OE axleshafts are not hardened so they allow the u-joint to pull free under stress and bust things up. It's not pretty when it happens, the ears on both my inner axleshaft and outer axleshaft stub busted and then busted up the u-joint. I completed Sledgehammer in 3WD that day with a lot more use of my winch than usual. Since installing Warn's hardened front axleshafts and hub kit, no more problems at all. Alloy USA and Superior Axle also make hardened axleshafts for the D30 if manual hubs aren't in your budget.:tea:
I'm interested in what you do here. I am getting ready to do an 8.8 in the next few weeks and I have no immediate plans to upgrade the front but that time will come. Sticking with 33's for now though.
 
#8,009 ·
so the timing is not adjustable. If it's off then there is a bad sensor (or a bad connection to the sensor), or a vacuum leak.

the cps seems to be a big source of problems on those and there is a simple ohms test for them to see if it is good
well hmm... it could be that problem seems kinda unlikely i'm thinking it had something to do with the back fire, but then again we had no back fire just running rough so i think Jeff is on the right track looks like you have to check all vaccum lines i'm thinking hook that air box up will drop that baby in again and if it's still running rough i'm thinking cam or crank. Jeff do you know if the crank is putting a false imput will his car run off the crank sensor? we might just want to unplug the CPS and run it and see if it changes any. if it doesn't then i'm thinking it's either vaccum issue or the rotor is still off some.
 
#8,011 ·
well hmm... it could be that problem seems kinda unlikely i'm thinking it had something to do with the back fire, but then again we had no back fire just running rough so i think Jeff is on the right track looks like you have to check all vaccum lines i'm thinking hook that air box up will drop that baby in again and if it's still running rough i'm thinking cam or crank. Jeff do you know if the crank is putting a false imput will his car run off the crank sensor? we might just want to unplug the CPS and run it and see if it changes any. if it doesn't then i'm thinking it's either vaccum issue or the rotor is still off some.
what is the history of the problem, other thna the leaking distro?
 
#8,015 ·
what is the history of the problem, other thna the leaking distro?
That is the history. The distributor was leaking pretty bad and simply changing the seal did nothing. I was told the shaft on it can cause the problem and replacing it sounded like the next option.

Somehow I'm thinking its not something like the cam, like Josh was suggesting, simply because it was running just fine before. I think it was replaced 'off' and now its becoming a problem in setting the timing.

Of course, the air cleaner is throwing a stick in the spokes.....

Anyone wanna come play mechanic? I'm here now and doing nada :2thumbsup:
 
#8,016 ·
here is a lot of good info for 2.5 rough idle

http://www.madois.com/html/tech/idle.html
Nice post jeff sounds good. And thanks jerry now that i think of it your engine can run without a crank sensor if the engine has already been running but after that you'll wont be able to start the car again. We can try lining it up a couple of times but jason while your home with "NADA" to do check all your vaccum lines and check pcv EGR i don't think you had one but i could be wrong. The only thing with the vaccum leak is that me and jason both agreed yesterday that if we had that bad of a leak we would probably hear it. but then again clamity little 4 bangers are noisy hahaha
 
#8,017 ·
now that i think of it your engine can run without a crank sensor if the engine has already been running
Not if it's like the CPS in my 4.0L engine. A defective CPS is a very common cause of engines suddenly stalling while being driven. It provides the master timing signal for the engine and if its signal disappears, the ECM will shut the engine down via the ASD (auto shutdown) relay. When the CPS fails, the engine won't start or if it's running, the engine will die. :)
 
#8,018 ·
if you remember Jason's earlier problem with the Jeep cutting out and dying nat random, that was a bad CPS. it quits, the engine quits.

To put my my 2cents in,

the timing may be off, it would seem logical. But, last known good configuration is always a good place to start. Took off the factory airbox so there may be an open or mis-routed vac line.

If the dist was set as Jeff described earlier it should be close enough that it should idle ok, should being the key word.

it's also possible it's just a POS:laugh:
 
#8,019 ·
Think about installing some alloy axleshafts up front before hitting JV. That's where I busted my passenger-side front axleshaft on my first run through Sledgehammer. The OE axleshafts are not hardened so they allow the u-joint to pull free under stress and bust things up. It's not pretty when it happens, the ears on both my inner axleshaft and outer axleshaft stub busted and then busted up the u-joint. After removing the inner axleshaft and reinstalling that outer stub, I completed Sledgehammer in 3WD that day with a lot more use of my winch than usual. Since installing Warn's hardened front axleshafts and hub kit, no more problems at all. Alloy USA and Superior Axle also make hardened axleshafts for the D30 if manual hubs aren't in your budget. :tea:
It's a nice kit, not in my budget tho, figure about $1400 out the door for a TJ D30 but you get locking hubs, outer shafts, nice setup...
 
#8,020 ·
if you remember Jason's earlier problem with the Jeep cutting out and dying nat random, that was a bad CPS. it quits, the engine quits.

To put my my 2cents in,

the timing may be off, it would seem logical. But, last known good configuration is always a good place to start. Took off the factory airbox so there may be an open or mis-routed vac line.

If the dist was set as Jeff described earlier it should be close enough that it should idle ok, should being the key word.

it's also possible it's just a POS:laugh:
That was before I knew that the timing was not adjustable. In that case getting the rotor set on the right gear is all important. I scanned over the page form the FSM last night.
 
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