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post #35446 of 40386 Old 01-27-2014, 05:43 PM
premo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenyoujoint View Post
ok so the prognosis is this...feels like either a crapped out planetary gear or bearing in the tcase or something in my tranny. Seemed perfect only running the front DS though so ruling out the rear end and the tranny. Good time to just get that 3.8 atlas i've always wanted....God I HATE not knowing for sure what something is and also not planning on a repair/upgrade.
That blows man. i have that old AW4 at Jeff's. Needs a rebuild but its yours if Jeff doesnt go to fistacuffs with you for it first probably worth a core if anything


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post #35447 of 40386 Old 01-27-2014, 05:52 PM
brokenyoujoint
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thanks Jason. From what I've read I need a 97 up aw4 due to the computer issues. I think yrs and yrs and yrs of usage is finally hitting me at once!
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post #35448 of 40386 Old 01-27-2014, 10:56 PM
Joe Dillard
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Kevin - I have a package for you. Let me know when you have time to pick it up. I'm generally home by ~4pm.
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post #35449 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 09:10 AM
brokenyoujoint
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Txt 'd you.
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post #35450 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 12:16 PM
brokenyoujoint
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turns out to be the shaft. I put it back on, drove it and the clunks and vibe which could easily be mistaken for anything was there again. took off the ds, drove up to 40mph and it's gone. inspected the shaft and the cardan joint is shot. binds pretty bad. Took it to that driveline shop over off Moreno Blvd. They wanted 430.00 to rebuild the cardan, new joints, and wanted to cut off the splines and re weld new ones. I said don't you have the blue dip stuff to just did the splines in? Since my stuff is long gone and I know that it tightens up the clearance. No we dont, you have to reweld new splines.. Ok,, thanks anyways, (pirates).. bye bye...
Got home, called tom woods with my specs and it's to my door in 3 days free shipping for 125.00 less .. And I get to keep a chirping, creeking, binding, trail spare....
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post #35451 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 12:19 PM
kuruma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenyoujoint View Post
ok so the prognosis is this...feels like either a crapped out planetary gear or bearing in the tcase or something in my tranny. Seemed perfect only running the front DS though so ruling out the rear end and the tranny. Good time to just get that 3.8 atlas i've always wanted....God I HATE not knowing for sure what something is and also not planning on a repair/upgrade.
Welcome to my world. LOL
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post #35452 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 01:06 PM
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenyoujoint View Post
turns out to be the shaft. I put it back on, drove it and the clunks and vibe which could easily be mistaken for anything was there again. took off the ds, drove up to 40mph and it's gone. inspected the shaft and the cardan joint is shot. binds pretty bad. Took it to that driveline shop over off Moreno Blvd. They wanted 430.00 to rebuild the cardan, new joints, and wanted to cut off the splines and re weld new ones. I said don't you have the blue dip stuff to just did the splines in? Since my stuff is long gone and I know that it tightens up the clearance. No we dont, you have to reweld new splines.. Ok,, thanks anyways, (pirates).. bye bye...
Got home, called tom woods with my specs and it's to my door in 3 days free shipping for 125.00 less .. And I get to keep a chirping, creeking, binding, trail spare....
same thing happened to me.


except it was both shafts at the same time so we assumed it was in the T-case. I rebuilt the t-case before we figured it out.
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post #35453 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 01:46 PM
brokenyoujoint
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bad to hear yet good to hear. I have this looming doubt in my head. Just doesnt feel like a shaft.. Feels like its in the case or trans. Like a loped bearing or something.Also had a few angry sparrows sound so I knew what that was! The feeling/sound is kinda ratchety in sound and you can feel it in the stick while holding it. I'll find out in a few days when I put the new one on. My current cardan joint feels like its square.... funny how i can jeep superstition all wknd long w/o issue, drive 130 miles home no issue. Park it for a few days and when I back out of my garage this happens... borderline retarded.
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post #35454 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 03:13 PM
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Looks to be about 1/4 thick. For some reason a tube seems to be stronger than a solid bar of the same size; I'm sure there is science involved.
There is science involved, but a simple visual for your imagination may help. To examine your statement that tube is stronger than solid bar of the same size and we'll assume you meant diameter. We can compare .001" wall 2" diameter tube to solid 2" diameter round bar in the same material and your statement fails immediately.

Where your statement is derived from, is in general, given same material and all other things being equal, reasonable sized tube is stronger than solid bar of the same weight. Of course that fails is you run the tube wall thickness out so thin that it can't even support itself, but you sorta get the idea.

The more correct way to view it is all tube is weaker than it's solid counterpart by the diameter of the hole converted to a solid bar.

Example being a 2" x .250 wall tube is weaker than 2" solid bar by the equivalent solid bar that is 1.5" in diameter.

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post #35455 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 04:02 PM
premo
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Anybody else catch this?

http://www.foxnews.com/us/2014/01/26...ue-to-gun-law/

They speak of my drinking, but they never consider my thirst
-Scottish proverb
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post #35456 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 04:09 PM
jbolty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
There is science involved, but a simple visual for your imagination may help. To examine your statement that tube is stronger than solid bar of the same size and we'll assume you meant diameter. We can compare .001" wall 2" diameter tube to solid 2" diameter round bar in the same material and your statement fails immediately.

Where your statement is derived from, is in general, given same material and all other things being equal, reasonable sized tube is stronger than solid bar of the same weight. Of course that fails is you run the tube wall thickness out so thin that it can't even support itself, but you sorta get the idea.

The more correct way to view it is all tube is weaker than it's solid counterpart by the diameter of the hole converted to a solid bar.

Example being a 2" x .250 wall tube is weaker than 2" solid bar by the equivalent solid bar that is 1.5" in diameter.
Makes sense, I hadn't really thought about this much and not at all about weight. So if I understand, a theoretical bar two feet long weighing ten pounds would be less strong than a 2 foot hollow tube also weighing ten pounds. The tube would have the same amount of material, but would obviously have a larger outside diameter.

But, what if it was on a treadmill?

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post #35457 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 04:54 PM
Chris
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Picked up some 37's for my jeep today, anyone want my 35's? like new tread, some cracking and handle like **** on the road.
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post #35458 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 05:19 PM
brokenyoujoint
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free? Had to ask
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post #35459 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 06:03 PM
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Makes sense, I hadn't really thought about this much and not at all about weight. So if I understand, a theoretical bar two feet long weighing ten pounds would be less strong than a 2 foot hollow tube also weighing ten pounds. The tube would have the same amount of material, but would obviously have a larger outside diameter.

But, what if it was on a treadmill?
Yes, but within reasonable limits. Another way to explore those limits is with a roll of kitchen aluminum foil. Unroll two pieces 3 feet long. Tape the ends of one piece together to make a tube out of it and see if it will support even it's own weight when you lay it on the side. Roll the other one up into a solid bar. Which one is stronger? Both the same material, both the same weight, yet their properties are entirely different when it comes to strength.


The reason that tube is used for driveshafts is high amounts of lateral rigidity can be achieved while keeping the weight down. What happens to smaller diameter solid shafts at high speed is they get a belly in them that starts swinging wider and wider which really throws the balance off. A tubular shaft can be made larger for more rigidity so it remains straight at the same RPM.

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post #35460 of 40386 Old 01-28-2014, 06:07 PM
Chris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenyoujoint
free? Had to ask
Very close but they are not street legal and don't handle the best on the highway. They are awesome in the dirt tho. 100 bucks for five.
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