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FS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitThe Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Building a Bumper?

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Unread 10-27-2013, 01:10 PM   #34636
BigD97TJ
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Any welder available this weekend or this week to help me replace a lower control arm mount?

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Unread 10-27-2013, 01:26 PM   #34637
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Any welder available this weekend or this week to help me replace a lower control arm mount?
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Unread 10-27-2013, 08:43 PM   #34638
mrblaine
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as chris said, Joe's HP 30 was setup for a YJ. I got everything inside of it, Chris got the housing.

I like the artec truss. it fit perfectly. however there is a boatload of welding to be done to it.

I have probably 3 hours of welding on it and it needs another 2 or 3 hours to be completely finished. I just ran out of time yesterday.
I have no clue what I'm missing, but there isn't more than 30 minutes total of burn time in that truss on the 30 in your pics. What are you doing, 1/4" at a time and then taking a nap before you do the next 1/4"?
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:19 PM   #34639
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Spent the day in JV today with Joe, Andrew and Blaine. Perfect day to be out there. Ran Lower and Upper Big Johnson, Boulderdash and Clawhammer. The new set up on my Jeep flat out works. I didn't get stuck once! I can't wait to get back out there during Thanksgiving.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:35 PM   #34640
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Spent the day in JV today with Joe, Andrew and Blaine. Perfect day to be out there. Ran Lower and Upper Big Johnson, Boulderdash and Clawhammer. The new set up on my Jeep flat out works. I didn't get stuck once! I can't wait to get back out there during Thanksgiving.
I am hoping someday to make it out there soon with you guys (if blaine will let me feel bad I haven't talked to him in awhile) I have my rig just about buttoned up (just buying a new TW DS for my ss sye) just need to set a few things, seal up the tranny, replace a few bearings and it should be ready to go. Miss hanging out and and the desert.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:50 PM   #34641
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Originally Posted by krughzn View Post
Spent the day in JV today with Joe, Andrew and Blaine. Perfect day to be out there. Ran Lower and Upper Big Johnson, Boulderdash and Clawhammer. The new set up on my Jeep flat out works. I didn't get stuck once! I can't wait to get back out there during Thanksgiving.
Pictures or it didn't happen
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Unread 10-28-2013, 12:42 AM   #34642
Climbit
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I have no clue what I'm missing, but there isn't more than 30 minutes total of burn time in that truss on the 30 in your pics. What are you doing, 1/4" at a time and then taking a nap before you do the next 1/4"?
If I was going to just burn the whole truss at once it would probably take me about an hour.

I don't weld more than about an inch or 2 and let it cool for a bit before I go back. Trying to avoid warping the tube.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 07:46 AM   #34643
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If I was going to just burn the whole truss at once it would probably take me about an hour.

I don't weld more than about an inch or 2 and let it cool for a bit before I go back. Trying to avoid warping the tube.
Warping the tube isn't about how much you weld it in a row. Warping is about how the truss fits because there are no welds that don't shrink as they freeze. If the fit up is tight, that is all you can do unless you jig it up with opposite pressure to hold some load against it.

Take a piece of 1/4" plate about 4" square, larger doesn't matter. Set a piece of tube on end on it and do a butt weld all the way around it. If you are actually welding, then when you are done and look at the backside, you will see where the weld pulled the material up around the tube.

I have a friend in Dana Point that overbuilds the crap out of stuff. His portable vise base is a 36" circle of 1" thick steel plate. He welded a 4" tube to it for a vise base with several passes around the base of the tube. When he was finished, the only place the steel circle touched the concrete floor in his garage was right under the tube. The welding dimpled the plate and pulled the whole outer edge up.

Your little axle tube won't stand a chance if the fit up isn't correct and welding it 1/4" at a time won't fix that if they are actually welds. Besides all of which, you would have been better served simply putting a sleeve on the long side like you've already seen.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 09:20 AM   #34644
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I think you should of spent 4 hrs instead of 3... Thats just an opinion though....
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Unread 10-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #34645
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At risk of sounding like a complete prick, are you capable of NOT coming across as a giant d-bag on the internet? Just curious is all. Proceed as normal if not..

For clarification, I'm not talking to you Kevin
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Unread 10-28-2013, 10:21 AM   #34646
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I think you should of spent 4 hrs instead of 3... Thats just an opinion though....
if I were getting paid by the hour

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Warping the tube isn't about how much you weld it in a row. Warping is about how the truss fits because there are no welds that don't shrink as they freeze. If the fit up is tight, that is all you can do unless you jig it up with opposite pressure to hold some load against it.

Take a piece of 1/4" plate about 4" square, larger doesn't matter. Set a piece of tube on end on it and do a butt weld all the way around it. If you are actually welding, then when you are done and look at the backside, you will see where the weld pulled the material up around the tube.

I have a friend in Dana Point that overbuilds the crap out of stuff. His portable vise base is a 36" circle of 1" thick steel plate. He welded a 4" tube to it for a vise base with several passes around the base of the tube. When he was finished, the only place the steel circle touched the concrete floor in his garage was right under the tube. The welding dimpled the plate and pulled the whole outer edge up.

Your little axle tube won't stand a chance if the fit up isn't correct and welding it 1/4" at a time won't fix that if they are actually welds. Besides all of which, you would have been better served simply putting a sleeve on the long side like you've already seen.
interesting.

that is contrary to everything I have read about axle tube welding, but I'm not an expert.

I will say, the fit on the truss was absolutely perfect, the Artec boys nailed it on this one. and to the naked eye, there appears to be no warping. I put a straightedge on the long side and it is still true.

I'm still planning on adding a gusset to each inner C and tying that into the coil bucket on each side to tie the whole thing together.

I considered doing a sleeve, but I already had this truss, and if I had done a sleeve the truss would no longer have fit. and I will probably still do a sleeve, I will just section it to butt up to the truss on the top. I just haven't had time to do it.

while we're on the subject of my axle, is there an easy way to deal with passenger side coil bowing? should I worry about it? Thanks.




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At risk of sounding like a complete prick, are you capable of NOT coming across as a giant d-bag on the internet? Just curious is all. Proceed as normal if not..

For clarification, I'm not talking to you Kevin
hey, what are friends for?
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Unread 10-28-2013, 10:39 AM   #34647
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At risk of sounding like a complete prick, are you capable of NOT coming across as a giant d-bag on the internet? Just curious is all. Proceed as normal if not..

For clarification, I'm not talking to you Kevin
Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 10:51 AM   #34648
mrblaine
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interesting.

that is contrary to everything I have read about axle tube welding, but I'm not an expert.
Consider the source. If you want to know what moves axle tubes around when they are built, you need to talk to the folks that make them and I guarantee you they are not welding 1" at a time and letting it cool.

Quote:
I will say, the fit on the truss was absolutely perfect, the Artec boys nailed it on this one. and to the naked eye, there appears to be no warping. I put a straightedge on the long side and it is still true.
That's the alligator and the banana theory. If one inserts a banana into one's ear and then makes the observation that there are no alligators around, the conclusion can be drawn that inserting a banana in your ear keeps alligators away.

In this case, you would have achieved the same result by welding it up all in one shot.

Quote:
I'm still planning on adding a gusset to each inner C and tying that into the coil bucket on each side to tie the whole thing together.
As long as you understand that the hole the balljoints fit into are still the weak link, gusset away.

Quote:
I considered doing a sleeve, but I already had this truss, and if I had done a sleeve the truss would no longer have fit. and I will probably still do a sleeve, I will just section it to butt up to the truss on the top. I just haven't had time to do it.

while we're on the subject of my axle, is there an easy way to deal with passenger side coil bowing? should I worry about it? Thanks.
There is, but you won't like the answers. Easiest and least desirable is to build a camber plate for the top of the spring. Hardest and most desirable is to cut and rotate the lower spring perch. Cross camber is the issue and I'm fighting the same thing on a HP 30 out of an XJ. I've got 1 difference side to side and it should be a bit less. Plus the coil bases are 180 out from each other which doesn't help.






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Unread 10-28-2013, 11:26 AM   #34649
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My understanding on welding a truss (No experience just book/research on the process) is that you weld an inch or 2 then move to the other side of that tube and come back an inch then go to the other side of the tube and same process. About 30 minutes between sessions to let it cool and you're good.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 03:08 PM   #34650
brokenyoujoint
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I took welding classes for two yrs and am by NO means an expert and havent actually welded in a few yrs now, BUT by keeping heat to the perfect minimum do get the job done right is important. I dont blame you what-so-ever for taking your time. It's an expensive thing. I would of done exactly as kuruma said. Throw several short beads down several inches apart and then you can go to town once its set. Overworking and over heating bends metal. PERIOD.
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