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Artec Holiday Sale!Bead Lock Wheels! Raceline, Trail Ready, & Trail-GearROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail

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Unread 05-02-2012, 11:37 PM   #27136
TJRoberto
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any one looking for Dana 44 shafts Material 4140 chromoly

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/2988939772.html G 2
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/2992085730.html Alloy USA

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Unread 05-03-2012, 11:21 AM   #27137
TJRoberto
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Quick question for those TJ Rubicon experts

I saw on the classified section that theirs a guy selling his from rubicon locker, I currently have a stock Rubicon rear axle in my TJ. Would it be a good upgrade to get the front rubicon locker and replace it with my rear Rubicon LSD locker? I remember reading online that the LSD locker are a little weaker than the non LSD?
Would you guys think this is a good thing to do just to get a little stronger locker. I know it does not compare to a ARB but it would give a little piece of mind.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 12:47 PM   #27138
Speed-Freek
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Vista / Lake Havasu, Ca / Az
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Ocotillo this weekend!! Jeepin and dirtbiking, anybody want to come out this weekend?? PM me!

I will be leaving tonight till Sunday, the weather will be a high of 83 all weekend, better than 93, I'll take it. Its only going to get hotter out there so I am taking advantage of the weather while still permiting.

Plus I want to ride my new bike! Any off road motorcycle riders in here?
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Unread 05-03-2012, 09:32 PM   #27139
Xpress
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
If anyone has the ability to remove a rounded out harmonic balancer bolt, and can make a house call, great appreciation would be granted
Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
you need the same fix as andy (grewe02) weld (or have someone weld) a bolt to it, wrench it off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ12 View Post
The welding idea tends to work the best on larger bolts but if you can't weld it, you could always drill a hole in the bolt, use pb blaster and an easy out on it....Marshalls Hardware will have everything you need to remove the bolt if you can't find it locally.
P.S. DON'T USE HARBOR FREIGHT EASY OUT'S..... They will make your problem worse....
Got the bolt out. It took a $15 HF grinder, a cutoff disc, HF bolt extractor sockets, and a hell of a lot of brain power/muscle. First tried using a breaker bar, wound up breaking the old timing chain AND gear (no big deal, replacing them anyways- entire reason why I was doing this). Moved onto using the grinder to cut the bolt off.

My dad rolls home and suggests we use the extractor socket with the breaker bar, AND the engines starter. Put it all together, plopped a battery in the truck, cranked it over and within 1 second the bolt was broken free... Already have a new bolt on its way from Toyota, seeing as how it's a particular bolt. No amount of PB blaster or penetrating lubricants would have broken this free, it's not that type of bolt.
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/another-5-2l-yj-thread-1503048/"]My 5.2L Build thread[/URL]

-1989 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L, soon to be 5.2L
-1996 Jeep Grand Cherokar 5.2L, donor and rainy day driver
-2004 Kawasaki KLR650 sunny day driver
[QUOTE=mudsweatNgearz;21162729]Leave em off and weld an I beam on. Bumperetts just scream homo.[/QUOTE]
"A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the [B][I]RIGHT[/I][/B] of the people to keep and bear Arms, [B][I]SHALL NOT BE INFRINGED[/I][/B]."
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Unread 05-03-2012, 09:37 PM   #27140
MJ12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Got the bolt out. It took a $15 HF grinder, a cutoff disc, HF bolt extractor sockets, and a hell of a lot of brain power/muscle. First tried using a breaker bar, wound up breaking the old timing chain AND gear (no big deal, replacing them anyways- entire reason why I was doing this). Moved onto using the grinder to cut the bolt off.

My dad rolls home and suggests we use the extractor socket with the breaker bar, AND the engines starter. Put it all together, plopped a battery in the truck, cranked it over and within 1 second the bolt was broken free... Already have a new bolt on its way from Toyota, seeing as how it's a particular bolt. No amount of PB blaster or penetrating lubricants would have broken this free, it's not that type of bolt.
Congrats...
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Unread 05-03-2012, 10:16 PM   #27141
Xpress
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I feel so accomplished today. Will feel better when I see this absolutely massive POS truck run like new.
__________________
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/another-5-2l-yj-thread-1503048/"]My 5.2L Build thread[/URL]

-1989 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L, soon to be 5.2L
-1996 Jeep Grand Cherokar 5.2L, donor and rainy day driver
-2004 Kawasaki KLR650 sunny day driver
[QUOTE=mudsweatNgearz;21162729]Leave em off and weld an I beam on. Bumperetts just scream homo.[/QUOTE]
"A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the [B][I]RIGHT[/I][/B] of the people to keep and bear Arms, [B][I]SHALL NOT BE INFRINGED[/I][/B]."
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Unread 05-03-2012, 11:53 PM   #27142
StvDiego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJRoberto View Post
Quick question for those TJ Rubicon experts

I saw on the classified section that theirs a guy selling his from rubicon locker, I currently have a stock Rubicon rear axle in my TJ. Would it be a good upgrade to get the front rubicon locker and replace it with my rear Rubicon LSD locker? I remember reading online that the LSD locker are a little weaker than the non LSD?
Would you guys think this is a good thing to do just to get a little stronger locker. I know it does not compare to a ARB but it would give a little piece of mind.
The Rubi front-to-rear locker is a direct swap. When the rear LSD starts to wear you'll hear and likely feel a distinct clunk from the rear when you shift. They tend to be rather inconsistent, when they start making noise they can last years or explode with no warning

If yours is working and quiet, and you're running 35's or smaller tires and not pounding around JV, it probably doesn't need to be changed, however, if the locker is uber-cheap it may be worth the piece of mind to gain that little edge, again, if the price is right

The Rubi lockers, while not on the same level as an ARB, is a good, stout unit.
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Unread 05-04-2012, 12:09 AM   #27143
TJRoberto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StvDiego View Post
The Rubi front-to-rear locker is a direct swap. When the rear LSD starts to wear you'll hear and likely feel a distinct clunk from the rear when you shift. They tend to be rather inconsistent, when they start making noise they can last years or explode with no warning

If yours is working and quiet, and you're running 35's or smaller tires and not pounding around JV, it probably doesn't need to be changed, however, if the locker is uber-cheap it may be worth the piece of mind to gain that little edge, again, if the price is right

The Rubi lockers, while not on the same level as an ARB, is a good, stout unit.
I was able to get a good deal on it $300 shipped to my door, out of a 05 Rubicon with 30K miles on it. The long long long plan is to eventually run JV if my built allows it to. So the plan is to basically just spend on swapping in the front Locker and selling my rear Rubicon locker. Right now theirs nothing wrong with my rear LSD locker, but I just waned to know if its worth the time and money to have a non LSD locker in my rear axle. and be a little more in the safe side.
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Unread 05-04-2012, 12:13 AM   #27144
StvDiego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJRoberto View Post
I was able to get a good deal on it $300 shipped to my door, out of a 05 Rubicon with 30K miles on it. The long long long plan is to eventually run JV if my built allows it to. So the plan is to basically just spend on swapping in the front Locker and selling my rear Rubicon locker. Right now theirs nothing wrong with my rear LSD locker, but I just waned to know if its worth the time and money to have a non LSD locker in my rear axle. and be a little more in the safe side.
Since you already have it, might as well toss it in.

In the meantime, just keep the rear locked when on the trail and avoid LSD slips
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Unread 05-04-2012, 12:21 AM   #27145
TJRoberto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StvDiego View Post
Since you already have it, might as well toss it in.

In the meantime, just keep the rear locked when on the trail and avoid LSD slips
sorry for my grammer and bad communication. I was given a good deal but dont have the non LSD locker yet, I do have a rear Rubicon axle in my TJ already, and wanted to see if its a good idea to purchase a non LSD locker to replace my current rear locker....


man this conversation got a little tangled up
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Unread 05-04-2012, 12:34 AM   #27146
StvDiego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJRoberto View Post
sorry for my grammer and bad communication. I was given a good deal but dont have the non LSD locker yet, I do have a rear Rubicon axle in my TJ already, and wanted to see if its a good idea to purchase a non LSD locker to replace my current rear locker....


man this conversation got a little tangled up
Ah, gotcha, I thought you had already bought the locker.

Considering that... Personally I'd pass if your locker is working properly, better things to spend $300 on during a build process, like;

If you plan on running around jV invest in these: http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1035
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Unread 05-04-2012, 01:29 AM   #27147
calsouthjeep
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Keeping the rear locked when on the trail will increase the longevity of the rubi locker over allowing it to act as a lsd? I think I read somewhere it has to do with how the gears (lack of better term) inside the actual locker take a beating in LSD mode cause of the type of slippage that occurs. Am I on the right track?
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Unread 05-04-2012, 01:42 AM   #27148
c-manxj
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maybe its too short of notice but perhaps some jeepers are down: im thinking about a trip to corral canyon if anyone is interested, this coming sunday (the 6th). im about to leave for 2 weeks on monday and im trying to get one last trip in.
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Unread 05-04-2012, 08:38 AM   #27149
StvDiego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calsouthjeep View Post
Keeping the rear locked when on the trail will increase the longevity of the rubi locker over allowing it to act as a lsd? I think I read somewhere it has to do with how the gears (lack of better term) inside the actual locker take a beating in LSD mode cause of the type of slippage that occurs. Am I on the right track?
yep you is. Locking the rear locks the LSD action and puts the torques on the locker
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Unread 05-04-2012, 08:48 AM   #27150
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJRoberto View Post
sorry for my grammer and bad communication. I was given a good deal but dont have the non LSD locker yet, I do have a rear Rubicon axle in my TJ already, and wanted to see if its a good idea to purchase a non LSD locker to replace my current rear locker....


man this conversation got a little tangled up
If you have the OEM rear Rubi locker in the Rubi housing as your back axle, do not get a front for it. Save the money for an ARB when the rear blows up.
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