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-   -   broken ARB bolts. (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f262/broken-arb-bolts-1475638/)

brokenujoint 02-07-2013 08:01 PM

broken ARB bolts.
 
Today I decided to service my diffs . The rear was fine. When I opened up the dana 30 it wasnt. After I drained all the lube out i felt the recessed area at the bottom of the diff and there I found 3 heads off 3 bolts. LOVELY. Apparently this is a common thing with ARBs and dana 30's.
Stu olsen had the same issue and he's got a write up on it here http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/arb/arb-11.htm.... I plan on swapping the LP30 for a HP30 anyways but didnt wanna NOT be able to use the ARB in the mean time. Looks like TDS will be rear locker only and front hubs disengaged. I have 3 of the 6 bolts sheared off. I wish they would of walked all the way out instead. Then I could just pop new bolts in. Not the case. Gonna have to get an EZ out on them.

Anyways, anyone have experience with this? Anyone know of a good gear/locker installer after I do the LP swap?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2/IMAG2055.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2/IMAG0174.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...cker-parts.jpg

Joe Dillard 02-07-2013 10:33 PM

BTDT. The carrier preload was not done right on mine back in '97 during the initial install by Dick Cepek.

You *may* not need to EZ out the bolts. IIRC, they are installed with a low torque (~13-14 foot lbs).

Is yours an RD-30 ARB?

Look familiar?

http://www.fototime.com/9DF255D0CD1C3F3/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/239CC5BF3D9A56C/standard.jpg

brokenujoint 02-07-2013 10:48 PM

not quite sure. It's been in for many yrs. Since maybe 98-99. Couldnt remember the last time I changed the oil, it looked wonderful. The ARB works like a charm. Not sure when this happened. Im reading it occurs because the housing flex's & it screws up the load on the ARB. I can believe it since my housing is bent as well. Ive been looking and have my fishing lure out on a built 79 kingpin 60 in Temecula that someone is selling currently. Im wondering if I do a hp30 and do internal sleeves if this would happen again. Realistically I'd prefer to do the hp30 since I have a hub kit and the arb already but hate wasting money on poop if poop is still going to be poop. I honestly don't wheel hard enough for a 60 but I also enjoy never looking back.

And those pictures are a mirror of what ive got. Those bolts only take about 20lbs or less of tq but they are snapped in there pretty well. Not sure how I'd get em out w/o taking out the locker.

Joe Dillard 02-07-2013 11:07 PM

Yea, from what I hear from reliable sources is that the LPD30 housing flexes more than the HPD30 due to the support ribs and thickness of the HP itself being thicker.

I installed several (I was testing out some designs) homebrew trusses on my HPD30 and also sleeved it so that the tube was 1/2" thick. I didn't have troubles with it after those upgrades.

I eliminated the vacuum disco as well.

http://www.fototime.com/EEEA4A80A38BC2C/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/612C554BA33FBB9/standard.jpg

brokenujoint 02-07-2013 11:14 PM

Joe I think we are gonna have to get together and build me up a bad boy HP30. My resolution for 2013 is to be debt free so the 60 is on hold. We won't need to truss it since I'll do an internal truss. Would like some beefier track bar and sway bar mounts though. Beef up the C's, and box off the LCA mounts DONE. Im sure the gears/locker will go to a shop. I wanna regear front and rear from 4:56 to 4:88's anyways.

premo 02-08-2013 12:28 PM

I like the truss joe. just 1/4x2" tube and 1/4" plate? or thinner then that? i need to truss my axles soon before i tweek them..

sdmoose429 02-08-2013 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenujoint (Post 14927582)
Today I decided to service my diffs . The rear was fine. When I opened up the dana 30 it wasnt. After I drained all the lube out i felt the recessed area at the bottom of the diff and there I found 3 heads off 3 bolts. LOVELY. Apparently this is a common thing with ARBs and dana 30's.
Stu olsen had the same issue and he's got a write up on it here http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/arb/arb-11.htm.... I plan on swapping the LP30 for a HP30 anyways but didnt wanna NOT be able to use the ARB in the mean time. Looks like TDS will be rear locker only and front hubs disengaged. I have 3 of the 6 bolts sheared off. I wish they would of walked all the way out instead. Then I could just pop new bolts in. Not the case. Gonna have to get an EZ out on them.

Anyways, anyone have experience with this? Anyone know of a good gear/locker installer after I do the LP swap?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2/IMAG2055.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2/IMAG0174.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...cker-parts.jpg

If you've been running it this long, why not just run it until you get the HP ready?

brokenujoint 02-08-2013 04:17 PM

I dont know if I broke these bolts 2 wks ago or 5 yrs ago. Im just gonna put the cover back on with rtv and lube it up and just not use the locker until i get my HP going, swap everything over and fix what needs fixing at that point. Pick a part is 1/2 off this wknd and I see there are a few cherokee's out there but Im gonna wait til March's 1/2 off since I dont have a truck to get the dang thing to my house if I did find a HP30 there.

jbolty 02-08-2013 04:27 PM

Looks like if you take the sections apart there might be enough bolt sticking out to grab. Taking the carrier out is no big deal.

brokenujoint 02-08-2013 04:33 PM

True, but I'd have to take out the axles, disconnect the tie rod, take off the air line and then I can work on getting the carrier out. I'll do this when I have a donor sitting next to it ready to swap over. Wish I had a bigger garage.. I'll start shopping next week when I get paid.

Joe Dillard 02-08-2013 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenujoint (Post 14928738)
Joe I think we are gonna have to get together and build me up a bad boy HP30. My resolution for 2013 is to be debt free so the 60 is on hold. We won't need to truss it since I'll do an internal truss. Would like some beefier track bar and sway bar mounts though. Beef up the C's, and box off the LCA mounts DONE. Im sure the gears/locker will go to a shop. I wanna regear front and rear from 4:56 to 4:88's anyways.

Yep, those items will help make it much stronger & should live longer when pushed hard.

I've done the things you've mentioned with the exception of the internal sleeve.

Quote:

Originally Posted by premo (Post 14931213)
I like the truss joe. just 1/4x2" tube and 1/4" plate? or thinner then that? i need to truss my axles soon before i tweek them..

Thanks. IIRC the truss was 1/4" & the tube was either 2x2x.188 or 1/4 wall HREW.

A basic cardboard template traced onto the mild steel then plasma cut & ground down to fit nice.

http://www.fototime.com/5D729C52C90149E/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/66764812AD17D42/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/0E96A08B38F5EDB/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/DAA32687CC432DC/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/76C995AA35B9798/standard.jpg

Test fit prior to welding:

http://www.fototime.com/56D29CF1A54FAC3/standard.jpg

premo 02-08-2013 05:57 PM

cardboard...HA!!! love it! thanks. i think i'm going to do something VERY similiar here pretty soon. ive had a plasma cutter sitting on my garage floor the past month now too, havent used it yet. i think i have an excuse now ;)

Joe Dillard 02-08-2013 06:04 PM

Yep, cardboard templates work really well for stuff like this. :)

http://www.fototime.com/27CB70924B21EF3/standard.jpg

premo 02-08-2013 06:07 PM

yup. super cheap template. :thumbsup:

brokenujoint 02-08-2013 07:16 PM

yeah but what if the template wasnt true? what if it was wet? Which side of the cardboard do you use? which grain of the cardboard is preferred.??? Man I'm gonna have to do a google search on this....I'll get back to you. :p


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