XJ Roof Rust and Paint Prep Help, Pleeez! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-12-2017, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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XJ Roof Rust and Paint Prep Help, Pleeez!

I am prepping my son's XJ for paint. It's a 1990, and most of the factory paint is still good. Of course, the clear is flaking on the hood and roof. My plan is to remove the finish wherever necessary, and scuff the finish wherever the paint is still good. Mostly I am scuffing with 80 grit on my DA, and I plan to go over it with the new color. However, the roof needs much more attention. Besides being difficult to reach it all, I am finding several places where surface rust has started and extended underneath the paint. Those areas I am taking down to bare metal. My questions are...

What is the easiest(?) way to remove the finish? I have been using 36 grit on a sander, but it scratches the heck out of everything. And I have tried aircraft stripper, but that doesn't work well either! This is kicking my butt!

Also, I have been applying Ospho to the rusty areas. What do you y'all recommend for rust prep prior to painting? Everything is going to go back in a metal flake bc/cc finish. I don't want the new paint to blow off the roof next year!

Thanks


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post #2 of 7 Old 07-15-2017, 08:46 PM
rjbruzan
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80 grit will not ruin the metal below. You will need to go smoother than 80 to get a nice finish. 280 -360 grit. Any tiny rust pits can be neutralized with a product like rust Mort/Ospho. A quality primer surfacer is next then a top coat.

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post #3 of 7 Old 07-17-2017, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Thanks, Ron. I will follow up with 80 grit after the 36 grit on the roof. I will be applying a high-build primer everywhere. Planning to sand to 320 on the primer, then finish coat.

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post #4 of 7 Old 07-17-2017, 05:48 PM
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Before you go all nuts with 36 and 80 grit everywhere, add some finer grits and try some test areas. I suggest only using high build primer where needed. Spend plenty of time removing failed paint and blending in rough paint.


80 grit for rough sanding before bodywork, and for sanding body filler. 180 grit for final sanding and feather edging body filler. 320 grit for final sanding before using primer and also for sanding spot putty.

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post #5 of 7 Old 07-21-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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I haven't gotten back to the body work yet. We are visiting my son down in south Florida. I will be hitting it pretty hard once we return. The flaking, peeling paint on top of the roof is murderously difficult to remove, hence the aggressive sandpaper. And because I want to be sure I remove everything to inspect for further rust.

Tim, are you saying you would NOT paint the entire car in primer?

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post #6 of 7 Old 07-22-2017, 10:22 AM
CJ7-Tim
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High build primer takes a great deal of extra effort to smooth and blend, I would only use it over repairs, nicks/scratches, and rough spots. Depending on the results you are after, primer is really only necessary over repairs and bare metal. If you feel the needs for 100% primer coverage, use regular primer for areas with that have decent stock paint.

.

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post #7 of 7 Old 07-22-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Got ya... thanks.

Kerrdog
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