Looking to paint my CJ7 with roll-on satin or glossy rustoleum. I'm not too stickler about having a smooth finish. Was wondering if anyone has painted theirs without thinning the paint giving it a thicker rougher texture? Sort of along the lines of Monstaliner?
I'm going to try it on something small but it's hard for me to envision the whole body done like this.
The other option is to use a single part polyurethane marine paint, like Interlux Brightside. These paints can be rolled on and "tipped" with a high quality brush for a shiney surface finish that will look like it was sprayed. Again, you'll have to prep the surface per the manufacturers instructions.
Why not just buy a cheap HVLP paint gun and spray it? It's not rocket science. No disrepect but even using implement paint will look much better sprayed than rolling it on. You can even buy hardner for it. Then you can wet sand and buff it lightly.
If you're not planning any body work or don't have a decent compressor (can rent one) I can understand the roll on. I just hate seeing people doing all the prep work and then covering up all the hard work with a roll on.
If you want to give that a try and have questions, do not hesitate to ask. Shoot me a PM, whatever. I'll even share my phone number if you want.
__________________ I've been married so long I don't bother looking
both ways before crossing the road.
Tried using a spray can at first and it turned out great until I got to the hood. The big open space left a lot to be desired.
I loved how my smoker turned out after brushing on Rustoleum High Heat Satin Black so I thought I'd give it a whirl. Plus, it's been sitting out in the direct Texas sun for a long time and still looks good.
Straight from the can and used a 4-inch foam roller for two coats. It turned out just like I wanted with some texture and low sheen to hide the flaws. Kindof has a very dark chocolate look to it. It was so easy to do that even if the paint doesn't hold up well after a year, I don't mind re-painting it. Can't wait to roll it out and get shots in the sun, but here's in the garage for now:
Thanks. About as simple as you can make it. Just like all the other roll-on methods without the thinning and sanding.
Removed hood, windshield frame, and anything that attached to the tub. Re-bent, shaped sheet metal from PO dents and gashes. Sanded out the rust areas first with a wire brush tool for a drill then sanded with 150 grit on an orbital sander. Those areas went down to metal. If there wasn't any rust or bad paint I sanded just enough to roughen the surface. Wiped down with mineral spirits. Masked everything off only because I tried a spray can at first. Used Rustoleum High Heat Satin Black straight from the can on a 4" foam roller. Dabbed with a brush on areas that would be covered by something like where the tail lights went or behind hinges. Covered a panel at a time with the roller putting it on about as thin as I could but still covering everything. After going around the whole vehicle, went back as lightly as I could without adding paint and re-rolled everything to remove bubbles and lines. Let it dry for 24hrs and re-coated. Still gave it a texture and even though it takes about a month to cure, the kids have already ran toys or bikes against it with no markings.
My neighbor, who is hyper-critical, had to get close to see the minor imperfections. The texture and low-luster hide things really well. Except for one area where the PO damaged the rear quarter panel, you have to use the glare of the paint in the sunlight to see where I fixed the dents and scrapes.
I was thinking the same thing. I did this to buy me some time before I decided what to do but now that it is done and it was so easy, I think I'm going to keep it this way. If I have to re-do it every one to two years, I don't mind.