T&T Tube Fender - bondo or seam sealer? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 04-06-2011, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
TexasTJ
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T&T Tube Fender - bondo or seam sealer?

Just received T&T tube fenders and wanted to smooth and seal the gap where the sheet metal and tubes are welded before painting. I was going to buy some Bondo Gold, but saw some DynaTron Seam Sealer in a caulk gun tube. Will the seam sealer work in this application? I know it is more flexible than bondo, and is waterproof which would be a plus for preventing rust in these seams, but can it be sanded smooth for a nice finish prior to paint?

Also looking for advice on proper sequence: 1. Bondo or seam sealer on bare metal, 2. Primer sealer on Bondo or seam sealer, 3. Etch primer on everything, 4. Paint ?

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post #2 of 15 Old 04-06-2011, 06:31 PM
srdart67
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Put etch primer on bare metal before you put anything on top! the seam sealer does not sand smooth however you lay it out is as smooth as you are going to get it. If it were me I would use the seam sealer and get it as smooth as possible. Bondo only lasts so long before it starts chunkin off and especially on fenders of a 4x4 the bondo doesnt stand a chance of holding up.
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-06-2011, 08:02 PM
JHW12084
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i suggest epoxy primer, then a 2 part seam sealer....
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-07-2011, 07:09 AM
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You CAN work with some seam sealers. Just gotta know which ones.

Kent Automotive makes one called "High-Tech" in Neutral or Black colors.

It is sandable after it's cured, and remains flexible. Great stuff.

P10095 for the neutral color.


3M's "All Around Autobody Sealant" is another such a product.

This one can be smoothed and shaped with simply a wet finger. I recommend a glove.
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post #5 of 15 Old 04-19-2011, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
TexasTJ
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The seam sealer did not work out - did not smooth out nice. I was able to get all the sealer out of the visible seams and am starting over. Has anyone ever tried Bondo Plastic Metal? Supposed to dry to metal hardness, and is sandable. Or would I be better off with glazing? I don't have any experience with body work and just want to seal the seams to prevent water/rust.
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-20-2011, 06:57 AM
GlobexMike
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The best answer is to go down to your local autobody supply shop and talk to the sales Guy there. He will point you in the right direction as to what will work for you. I have used a filler called all metal I believe a long time ago and worked in a similar application. Make sure you epoxy prime the fenders before doing the bodywork over them. Then apply filler sand and apply a glaze over to make everything smooth. We usually prime that and then paint.
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-20-2011, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTJ View Post
The seam sealer did not work out - did not smooth out nice. I was able to get all the sealer out of the visible seams and am starting over. Has anyone ever tried Bondo Plastic Metal? Supposed to dry to metal hardness, and is sandable. Or would I be better off with glazing? I don't have any experience with body work and just want to seal the seams to prevent water/rust.
What did you use?
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post #8 of 15 Old 04-20-2011, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
TexasTJ
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I originally used Dynatron Seam Sealer - it would have been fine on the underside, but the finish was rough on the top of the fenders. I tried some of the Bondo Plastic Metal last night on one of the fenders -it applied easy enough and I was able sand after a couple hours. I am going to sand more tonight and seal/primer it.
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-20-2011, 11:53 AM
mynickburns
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I used sealer on my TnTs. (Keep in mind I am by no means a body man!) You can get sandable sealer, but it takes lots of patients when sanding. If I were to do it all over again I would have just welded up the seams and called it good. I also gooped the sealer into that hole inside the fenders to seal it up. It does take forever for it to dry unless you live in a hot climate. I spent about 2 hours per fender sanding the sealer to get a good seal and clean look. (I hate to admit this but the areas where the sealer chunked out I just filled with super glue to seal up the gap. It looks just like clear coat finish!) Like I said, I am not a body man.
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-21-2011, 05:33 AM
JHW12084
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listen.....if your worried about those small seams use a 2 part seam sealer, put it on where you want, and smooth it out with your finger(run your finger along the seam). just use enough to fill the seam. clean the excess off with thinner or wax and grease remover, or when its dry sand it off. dont use all-metal or any body filler. it will crack and flake off being its a flexpoint on the fenders. all metal can be used on steel, but its main use is for aluminum panels. also....the sealer you used could be worked with before its cured withe thinner or wax and grease remover to smooth it out and make it how you want it to look. but i suggest a 2 part sealer cause its a better product and once its dry, its not gonna crack or marble up.
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post #11 of 15 Old 04-21-2011, 06:23 AM
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Or he could use the ones I suggested a few posts back, which are designed to do exactly what he asked.

I asked a ref if he could give me a technical foul for thinking bad things about him. He said, of course not. I said, well, I think you stink. And he gave me a technical. You can't trust em. -
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post #12 of 15 Old 04-21-2011, 10:00 AM
MountainMan864
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I had my tube fenders rhinolined with UV topcoat so I didnt have to worry about seam sealer or anything. Its held up great too but I dont bash my jeep in rocks though.
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post #13 of 15 Old 04-21-2011, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
TexasTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
Or he could use the ones I suggested a few posts back, which are designed to do exactly what he asked.
Wish I had better access to these products, or I would have tried them. Unfortunately, I live in a very small town and there are no local paint or auto body supply stores. I was hoping to find something that is available locally. I will keep your suggestions in mind if the product I tried does not work out. Thanks.
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post #14 of 15 Old 04-21-2011, 04:26 PM
mynickburns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTJ View Post
Wish I had better access to these products, or I would have tried them. Unfortunately, I live in a very small town and there are no local paint or auto body supply stores. I was hoping to find something that is available locally. I will keep your suggestions in mind if the product I tried does not work out. Thanks.
Always remember your not limited by the supply in your local autoparts store either. Just because they don't stock it, doesn't mean they can't order it for you. It never hurts to ask.
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-21-2011, 05:33 PM
Pacfanweb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTJ View Post
Wish I had better access to these products, or I would have tried them. Unfortunately, I live in a very small town and there are no local paint or auto body supply stores. I was hoping to find something that is available locally. I will keep your suggestions in mind if the product I tried does not work out. Thanks.
You can order directly from Kent Automotive. That's what I do. In fact, I've never seen their stuff sold in stores.

And I'm sure your local place can order the 3M stuff for you.

I asked a ref if he could give me a technical foul for thinking bad things about him. He said, of course not. I said, well, I think you stink. And he gave me a technical. You can't trust em. -
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