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Unread 05-17-2013, 08:08 AM   #1
CJ7ROB
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Single stage Acrylic Enamel Metallic with clearcoat seperate

Guys looking for some tips here. I sprayed my Jeep with a single stage acrylic enamel metallic by Trinity 1945 and the gloss could be better. It is smooth with very little orange peel but I would like it glossier. So I am ready to spray over it with their acrylic enamel clearcoat. My question is should I lightly sand the paint with 2000 before I spray the clear, or do I just clear it then sand it with 2000 when the clear dries? I know I am past the paint window for clear since I sprayed everything yesterday. Thanks for help











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Unread 05-17-2013, 08:50 AM   #2
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Lightly sand, new final coat of color, then Clear coat within the window. Bad adhesion if you miss the window. Ever notice all the cars with peeling clear that looks absolutely horrible? You're doing a lot of work just to end up with a bad paint job.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 08:56 AM   #3
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Been through their paints years ago,never a good shine from their paints..always kinda of a "blah" finish..

I think your best bet is to do a 600 sand since your way past the recoat window and if you have any left spray another color coat,then spray the clear within in the recoat window for a good bond,did a tractor with their acrylic enamel and did the same as you and then just did a light sand and cleared,the clear pealed from the color a year later....

Do your clear..then sand n buff..thats the best shine you'll get out of that paint.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 09:34 AM   #4
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Thanks guys for the advice. I knew I should have just gone with a BC/CC paint. How much extra shine are we talking about after I recoat and spray the clear right away? Is it worth going after this little more gloss or just say screw it and redo the whole thing with BC/CC?
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:33 AM   #5
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Actually a couple guys in this thread used the same paint SS metallic with much better results. Check out SCjeeper's, it came out awesome.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f260/...58/index2.html
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Unread 05-17-2013, 12:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
Thanks guys for the advice. I knew I should have just gone with a BC/CC paint. How much extra shine are we talking about after I recoat and spray the clear right away? Is it worth going after this little more gloss or just say screw it and redo the whole thing with BC/CC?

Hard to say how much shinier it will get. Quick and easy test, pour some water over the finish and see how it glosses. Water will simulate clear, to an extent anyways. Just remember that this is 'wet' and you will get something shinier than most clear finishes. It gets you in the mental ballpark though.

If it's not an OMG difference do some color sanding and polish on a panel and see how that looks. Taking out the orange peel alone can do wonders.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:09 PM   #7
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You can get a good shine out of it with a clear coat..even if you screw up with runs and orange peel and such its an easy fix for clear without having to re-spray.

You always get a much better end result right out fo the booth with a clear coat

Lookin at it all closer now,looks like you might of sprayed it a little too dry or held the gun too far away..just do a good sand and re-coat and add a clear coat.

What gun and compressor are you using?
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:21 PM   #8
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Thanks, I'm going to try the water test. I'm using a 30 gallon compressor and a cheap HF gun. Spraying it at about 75psi. I don't think I'm using a medium reducer though. Will the wrong reducer be causing part of the problem? I feel like if I hold the gun too close it might make it run. It goes on nice and wet and lots of metallic sparkle and gloss but it dries not so glossy.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:27 PM   #9
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yes..a wrong reducer for the temps and humidity can cause a dry look.

you saying your running 75 PSI at the gun?....if you are..thats the major problem causing it to spray too dry....got get a little PSI gauge at harbor freight,they have the adjustment knob on it with a gauge and very small,attatch it directly to the gun and set the PSI down around 30 or so and do some test panels to adjust the best spray pattern and PSI until you get the best results.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:34 PM   #10
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Yea I have the little guage at the gun and a water filter too. I thought when I sprayed around 30-40psi there was more orange peel. I am going to play with it again tonight on some test pieces adjusting the PSI and trying a medium reducer, thx.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 07:43 PM   #11
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75 is way too high. Most paints will go betwen 30-40psi with a regular gun. You want to use just enough pressure to get an even pattern, the paint mfg should have a guideline on the paint itself along with what reducers to use. Shooting metallics is more of a fine line as well, too much pressure or too close will bury the metal in the paint and you'll lose the metal.

ALL paintjobs will have orange peel, look at any car on the lot and you'll see it. Color sand and polish gets rid of it. If you go with a clear worry about it then, dont worry about the orange in the color coat.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #12
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Which HF gun did you get?..i have used a few of them on projects that i didn't want to run cheapo paint through my Sata and Devilbiss and a few of them really don't spray too bad for the money.

The one i use and alot of others brag is the 47016 gun,i just got a new one this week while at HF getting socket holder rails for my tool box and it was on sale for like 16.00 so i picked up a new one for the price since mine is a few years old.

Here's the best write up i ever seen on how to set up a spray gun for the best paint job..Barry is a nationaly known painter and owner of SPI paint and can't get any better of a guy to talk to.

Adjusting Your Gun
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Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...http://www.ironworkers.org/becoming/careers.aspx
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Unread 05-18-2013, 04:04 PM   #13
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
Which HF gun did you get?..i have used a few of them on projects that i didn't want to run cheapo paint through my Sata and Devilbiss and a few of them really don't spray too bad for the money.

The one i use and alot of others brag is the 47016 gun,i just got a new one this week while at HF getting socket holder rails for my tool box and it was on sale for like 16.00 so i picked up a new one for the price since mine is a few years old.

Here's the best write up i ever seen on how to set up a spray gun for the best paint job..Barry is a nationaly known painter and owner of SPI paint and can't get any better of a guy to talk to.

Adjusting Your Gun
Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy View Post
75 is way too high. Most paints will go betwen 30-40psi with a regular gun. You want to use just enough pressure to get an even pattern, the paint mfg should have a guideline on the paint itself along with what reducers to use. Shooting metallics is more of a fine line as well, too much pressure or too close will bury the metal in the paint and you'll lose the metal.

ALL paintjobs will have orange peel, look at any car on the lot and you'll see it. Color sand and polish gets rid of it. If you go with a clear worry about it then, dont worry about the orange in the color coat.
Thanks Iron for Barry's site, I'll have to check that out. So I adjusted the gun to 35psi. Definitely wetter and better but got some peel on the sides. The grill didn't come out too bad. I also am using a different acrylic enamel reducer by MSA from Napa. I know I prolly should have shot the clear but I didn't b/c I didn't want to shoot it over the orange peel. If I can get this paint to lay a little flatter by just buffing it out, then I'll leave it. If not then I'll reshoot and I'll hit it with the clear right away. Thanks for your help guys, I gotta play with it a little more but I'm getting closer




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