Replacing floor pans -

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post #1 of 6 Old 08-22-2012, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Replacing floor pans

The other day i noticed that i need to replace my floor pans, so i ordered my new pans and they are in. Several videos have informed me that the best way to attach these is by butt welding them in. However I am not nearly skilled enough to weld 18 gauge steel and not completely screw it up.

Therefore i was thinking about using rivets and silicon caulk to seal the area where the new pans would be going in.

Does anyone know of a reason that this would not work?

as always much appreciation

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post #2 of 6 Old 08-22-2012, 09:06 PM
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That method won't work very long at all,plus it'll look crappy.

But there is a panel adhesive that would work well and being used alot in where folks have no welders or the required expereince to use one...

Here's the 3M panel adhesive,when these panel adhesives are used accordingly,they can be near as strong as a weld,follow the directions will also have to buy the gun to use....this stuff is a great alternative to welding non structural panels on a vehicle,it's been widely used in replacement panels and floor work in resto's and repairs.
You can also stop at your local auto body supply store and they will commonly have this on the shelf or the same adhesive but other brands....

3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive

This is another one that some people say is better than 3M and commonly found at stores too...i've never used it,but have used the 3M and happy with it..
Products: FU110B - Fusor Metal Patch Panel Adhesive Bondline Control (Fast-Set) 7.6 oz., 6 case/qty.

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post #3 of 6 Old 08-28-2012, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input Ironworker709. I have slowly been cutting out the old floor pan, and it looks like crap under there. The supports for the floor pan are almost completely rusted out. I think i am just going to clean up what is left of the old support and weld some more material in to strengthen the support.

I have talked to some other people and they have recommended that i just braze the new floor pan in. I have access to acetylene, so that will be much cheaper than buying the expensive structural glue. I did however want to ask your opinion because i have been told that brazing is stronger than the adhesive and possibly even stronger than welding the pans in. Is this person correct about brazing being stronger than welding?
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-28-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Im not sure if you can see how rusted the support is in this picture
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floor pan before cut.jpg   floorpan.jpg  
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-28-2012, 07:06 PM
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I too use the 3M panelbond all the time. The stuff is awesome and you dont need to worry about warping the metal from getting it hot. The stuff is like $35 for a tube and it will be enough to do what you want. Make freinds with someone at a local body shop and they may be able to sneak you a gun to use over a weekend or something. Heck if you were close by you could borrow mine.

Brazing used to be the thing to do back in the days before small mig welders were available to use in body shop applications. I never heard of anyone that still does it. It will warp worse than welding IMO.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-28-2012, 07:07 PM
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Invest in some actual auto body seam seasler as well. Dont just use silicon or caulking. Its just wrong and seam sealer is not that expensive, and you use a standard caulking gun to apply it.
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floor pans , rust repair

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